Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck

[lostcreekranch]

I have to ask something that is off topic... Why the bars on the windows? First I thought they were some kind of solar thing but I see it's bars? What is that all about?

When we bought this place all the out buildings were in place, just no house. The folks we bought from were scared of everything I think. The shop has quarters, on one side, and those are the windows in the picture. I was ready to remove them but .. they're bolted and welded in place.

We're 12+ miles, from the nearest town, and have no crime problems out here.

 

[Diggin It]

Heck, 700 pounds on a loader isn't much (Not familiar with you tractor though) ,

Lift Capacity (@ Pivot Pin) (lbs.): 966

 

[California]

One of my pneumatic impact wrenches, is the HF 1/2" Earthquake. The middle setting, on tightening, is just right for the blades on both 7' RFM and Kubota ZT 72" deck. It's high breakout torque has never failed to loosen any of them.

1/2 in. Aluminum Air Impact Wrench

I have that tool too. Any idea how many ft/lbs it applies at low/medium/high settings?

One thing I learned: a long extension (18~24 inches or more) between the impact wrench and the socket absorbs and limits torque applied, same as those calibrated torque-limiting sticks. I tried loosening 3-point pin nuts from the opposite side of the implement using a long extension. Nope.

 

[hunt4570]

Lift Capacity (@ Pivot Pin) (lbs.): 966

So you got a couple hundred to spare!

 

[lostcreekranch]

I have that tool too. Any idea how many ft/lbs it applies at low/medium/high settings?

One thing I learned: a long extension (18~24 inches or more) between the impact wrench and the socket absorbs and limits torque applied, same as those calibrated torque-limiting sticks. I tried loosening 3-point pin nuts from the opposite side of the implement using a long extension. Nope.

The info I've seen, indicates 800 ft./ lbs. of breakout and 700 ft./ lbs. max torque in makeup. I don't know about low and medium torque ranges. I used medium setting to install blades and never had an issue.

 

[California]

The info I've seen, indicates 800 ft./ lbs. of breakout and 700 ft./ lbs. max torque in makeup. I don't know about low and medium torque ranges. I used medium setting to install blades and never had an issue.

Thanks.

 

[rbstern]

I have had good results with the lower cost HF horizontal band saw. It cuts up to 6" wide. Takes a little to get it all adjusted first especially the vertical setting. Even their lowest cost band saw blades last pretty well . Break more than going dull. Gets away from all the hot pieces of metal from a chop saw which I also had, hated it so got rid of it.

Ron

And I'm there.

Returned the wobbly shaft chop saw, which they kindly refunded for me, and picked up the horizontal bandsaw. Spent a couple of hours this afternoon getting it set up. I made a base for it using two of the small HF furniture dollies and a couple of lengths of 2x4. That gets it up off the ground another five inches or so, and it's much easier to roll around.

The saw was set up correctly out of the box. Only mishap was a missing set screw on one of the belt wheels. I didn't have the correct thread on hand, so I rethreaded the hole for one I did have, and off we went. I did 90 and 45 test cuts on 2" square tube stock (10ga wall), using the stock blade. It cut beautifully, running at 80 fpm. I dribbled some oil on the blade while it worked, which seemed to keep it cool. How can they sell this tool for $200 (coupon)?

 

[5030]

And I'm there.

Returned the wobbly shaft chop saw, which they kindly refunded for me, and picked up the horizontal bandsaw. Spent a couple of hours this afternoon getting it set up. I made a base for it using two of the small HF furniture dollies and a couple of lengths of 2x4. That gets it up off the ground another five inches or so, and it's much easier to roll around.

The saw was set up correctly out of the box. Only mishap was a missing set screw on one of the belt wheels. I didn't have the correct thread on hand, so I rethreaded the hole for one I did have, and off we went. I did 90 and 45 test cuts on 2" square tube stock (10ga wall), using the stock blade. It cut beautifully, running at 80 fpm. I dribbled some oil on the blade while it worked, which seemed to keep it cool. How can they sell this tool for $200 (coupon)?

View attachment 658899

View attachment 658901

Got mine about 15 tears ago for 150 bucks. I've cut a ton (actually many tons) of structural steel and stainless rod with mine, hundreds of pieces.

Couple things of note...

1. The motors suck big time. You'll eventually let the smoke out, it's 100% pure Chineseum rice paper insulation and it will eventually stink. Goo news is a good Marathon or GE NEMA 56 frame is a bolt on. I have a Marathon on mine now. Mine stunk up the shop....

2. The upper bandwheel will eventually expire. It has a bronze bush in it and it's under constant tension. if you want it to last at all, remove the bandwheel and drill and tap it for a grease fitting and grease it. I didn't and had to machine the bandwheel for a real roller bearing.

3. The angle graduations on the vise base plate are wacky. I don't use them. I see you have a rafter square. use that. Much better.

4. Forget the cheap HF loops. Go to MSC online and order up some Lennox or Starrett pre welded 0.025 bi metal loops, you'll be glad you did. They last 10 times as long as the Chinese carbon steel loops HF sells.

Other than those quirks, mine has run fine for years. The biggest improvement next to the motor was the bi-metal loops. I hardly ever use an lubricant, just let it cut. usually the teeth on the loop will get dull before they break.

Still a heck of a buy at 200 clams. Yes it lacks a hydraulic downfeed and lacks a wet lube system but for 200 bucks, you cannot beat it. Mine is grey, not pizmuckle pink.:laughing:

Almost forgot..... I removed the cover where the input shaft from the belt drive goes into the saw and discovered it was filled with fish oil...lol I got that out and filled it full of high quality EP grease. been that way for years, no issue.

Gonna copy your base. I still drag mine around by the handle.

 

[rbstern]

Got mine about 15 tears ago for 150 bucks. I've cut a ton (actually many tons) of structural steel and stainless rod with mine, hundreds of pieces.

Couple things of note...

1. The motors suck big time. You'll eventually let the smoke out, it's 100% pure Chineseum rice paper insulation and it will eventually stink. Goo news is a good Marathon or GE NEMA 56 frame is a bolt on. I have a Marathon on mine now. Mine stunk up the shop....

2. The upper bandwheel will eventually expire. It has a bronze bush in it and it's under constant tension. if you want it to last at all, remove the bandwheel and drill and tap it for a grease fitting and grease it. I didn't and had to machine the bandwheel for a real roller bearing.

3. The angle graduations on the vise base plate are wacky. I don't use them. I see you have a rafter square. use that. Much better.

4. Forget the cheap HF loops. Go to MSC online and order up some Lennox or Starrett pre welded 0.025 bi metal loops, you'll be glad you did. They last 10 times as long as the Chinese carbon steel loops HF sells.

Other than those quirks, mine has run fine for years. The biggest improvement next to the motor was the bi-metal loops. I hardly ever use an lubricant, just let it cut. usually the teeth on the loop will get dull before they break.

Still a heck of a buy at 200 clams. Yes it lacks a hydraulic downfeed and lacks a wet lube system but for 200 bucks, you cannot beat it. Mine is grey, not pizmuckle pink.:laughing:

Almost forgot..... I removed the cover where the input shaft from the belt drive goes into the saw and discovered it was filled with fish oil...lol I got that out and filled it full of high quality EP grease. been that way for years, no issue.

Gonna copy your base. I still drag mine around by the handle.

Appreciate the tips.

I bought one of the Supercut bimetal blades while I was at the store. The Supercut blades are made in Idaho. Been using that brand on the HF wood bandsaw for years with great success. They make good blades.

For the stand: It's the small dollies, butted end-to-end. The 2x4's are 36". I mitered 2x4s for supports between the legs (you can see them in the pic). 7 degree miter at the ends, to fit the leg taper, 11" long from the outside of the miter. Assuming your older model has similar angles and spacing.

 

[stuckmotor]

Large Drain Cleaning Bladder
If have good metro water pressure and beat on the sewer pipe where I thought the clog resided. After a while there the water was draining again.

My eyes must have been very dry when I typed the above. I'll try to straighten it out below. Sorry for the typeos.
QUOTE=stuckmotor;5752564]Large Drain Cleaning Bladder
I have good metro water pressure and beat on the sewer pipe where I thought the clog resided. After a while the water was draining again.[/QUOTE]