Tractor overheats when mowing. No dealer actions fix it. Any ideas?

[sd455dan]

Hello everyone. I have been posting in the LS tractor section because that is what this tractor is, but has anyone ever had issues like this with any brand tractor? I made a video of my issue here: (YouTube link so beware for those that hate that). I go into all the issues I have had to deal with and what lead up to the problem in the video. *** BTW, I try to use a little bit of comedy to cover up my anger. It helps to keep me from having a heart attack with all these issues. I also do not have great things to say about the brand because I am tried of fighting with them and its wearing me down. Please ignore that and let me know if you have any ideas.

For those that don't like to watch videos or hate YouTube, here is more info:

- The tractor was great for about 9 months. Everything was good except for a power steering pump issue that later got fixed.

- Then the hydraulic cooler split at a seam and sprayed hydraulic fluid all over the engine compartment. The cooler was replaced under warranty and the tractor was decreased. I took it home.

- Many issues started after this so it went back to the shop where they replaced the alternator, starter, belts, gaskets, seals, ... that was suppose to fix the issues. I took it home.

- I can't mow without it overheating. I clean it over and over and it still does it. It goes back to the shop. They replace belts, the radiator, and foam around the radiator. I took it home.

- I still can't mow without it overheating. Then I start to get fuel system errors and the tractor will not work. I bring it back to the shop where they replace the injectors, the fuel pump, the fuel filter, they drop the tank and test the gas (no issue found), they have it 3 or 4 months and reprogram the ecu and whatever else they did to try and get it running.

- I finally get it back and it still can't mow without it overheating. It only happens it seems when there is a load on the tractor like the mower. If I just drive around in it and do nothing to tax the engine its fine. The only thing I have that would put load on the tractor is mowing.

Any ideas? When they replaced all the fuel system items they said they saw corrosion in the pump and fuel system. I asked them if there is corrosion in the cooling system and they say no, but I don't think they have ever taken the water pump off to see. Its like the cooling inside the engine is plugged up or something but I have no clue. Its under warranty and I want it fixed.

EDIT: And yes, I check the air flow and its clean. There is no debris in the radiator or coolers nor on the hood vents.

Watched the video,

my first thought was an over temp condenser Raising the inlet temp to the radiator until I saw there is no A/C in operation and the belt is removed.

Any chance all the pressure washing hasn't gotten the air filter wet? some paper filters will almost stop flowing air once they have been saturated and then dried.

With everything that has already been done Starting to wonder if this is an exhaust restriction in the DPF or DOC .

The symptoms reminded me of a Subaru/ mail delivery car we worked on about week ago,

And yes I know it is a gas powered car

but it had somewhat similar symptoms, would run OK for about 1/2 an hour or so would slowly lose power and the temp would also rise when it was worked, it did not peg the gauge or eject coolant though.

Subaru dealer said it needed new injectors for $$.

Car was setting OBD2 codes for fuel related problems.

We unhooked the exhaust pipe before the Catalytic converter and the car ran great . Cut the CAT out and installed a generic Magnaflow CAT after welding in an O2 sensor bung from the old Cat.

The old catalytic Converter ceramic that the exhaust gasses pass thru had failed and broken into pieces, 1 of which had wedged itself over the outlet, choking the engine just enough that it would run alright for a while and even enough for the driver to finish her route -but as engine heat builds and temp rises since all the exhaust heated gasses are under greater exhaust back pressure keeping more of the hot gasses in the head the car would lose power.

The car would idle fine and even run ok at light throttle , but run with loss of power and elevated gauge temp /check engine when worked hard.

Since you have checked and basically replaced many of the main cooling components , it may be worth a look or test to see how restricted the exhaust is. Being as new as that tractor is I doubt the ceramic/precious metal components broke but not so sure it hasn't possibly partially plugged up with soot for some unknown reason.

 

[rademamj1]

Probably not an exhaust restriction. Any blockage or restriction in the DPF and/or DOC, will by design and necessity, be accompanied by an exhaust pressure differential reading. The DPF sensors will detect the pressure difference, and kick a code to the computer to automatically regen and for a really serious pressure difference call for manual regen or go into limp mode. The OP is only complaining about overheating while under load, not a loss of power.

 

[the old grind]

Are there a tests for the pressure sensors in the exhaust system. I've seen many OBD & OBDII sensors and components fail without setting a code since they've been around.

I still think spinning a 6' BH on a tractor that size w or w/o running AC is working it pretty hard in tall or thick grass or weeds in 90^+ weather. BTDT with 45hp gas AND diesel open station Deeres and oil consumption was an expected result that was noticed in < 1 hour mowing sessions above 85^.

Maybe 90^ air isn't much for cooling, but that's JMO.

 

[sd455dan]

Probably not an exhaust restriction. Any blockage or restriction in the DPF and/or DOC, will by design and necessity, be accompanied by an exhaust pressure differential reading. The DPF sensors will detect the pressure difference, and kick a code to the computer to automatically regen and for a really serious pressure difference call for manual regen or go into limp mode. The OP is only complaining about overheating while under load, not a loss of power.

Well in the Video @ 24:45 OP mentions that if he goes any faster and pushes the throttle speed up the tractor will die out and LOSE power. Gauge was reading just over 1/2 and when it began flashing code FO2 it was a bit higher but under 3/4 gauge.

If those pressure differential sensors are working then seems like the restricted exhaust would be impossible. will be following this thread for the ultimate resolution.

Maybe the other dealer has better factory trained techs and all of the internal TSB's.

Hard to believe LS has not seen these symptoms before and does not have a TSB on this model tractor given it's age.

 

[rademamj1]

Well if those pressure differential sensors are working then seems like the restricted exhaust would be impossible. will be following this thread for the ultimate resolution.

Maybe the other dealer has better factory trained techs and all of the internal TSB's.

Hard to believe LS has not seen these symptoms before and does not have a TSB on this model tractor given it's age.

Yes Indeed. If those exhaust gas sensors are working properly, the OP should have recieved a CEL for major pressure difference across the DOC or DPF.

 

[sd455dan]

Yes Indeed. If those exhaust gas sensors are working properly, the OP should have recieved a CEL for major pressure difference across the DOC or DPF.

added the comment in video @24:45 about power loss

Saw this LS owner has had somewhat similar problems when bush Hogging- gauge was reading about the same

LS Tractor Rant - YouTube

Oops see the OP has already seen and contacted this owner.

 

[Oldpath05]

One thing I've learned in my years of being a mechanic is to never trust the gauge on a dash until you back up the position on the gauge with an infrared thermometer reading. Read right beside the temperature sender. Then and only then can you trust the gauge. For all you know that might be 200F. It probably isn't but you don't know for sure untill you check it. You might have two identical tractors running at the same temperature showing completely different on their respective temperature gauges.

I trusted the gauge last year when I see it go to hot and the reason was a broken fan belt, if not for that gauge I would've kept using it til I see steam coming from the motor, I dont like seeing steam coming from a motor.

 

[TimP]

My old B2150 kept getting worse and worse with the overheating.

My dealer had flushed the system on a few occasions, but I finally had to spring for a new radiator.

That fixed my problem.

 

[Fuddy1952]

I didn't read all posts, don't know if overheating has been resolved but these thing helped our drag car motor cool and may could be used on tractor.
We replaced thermostat with a restrictor. Basically like a gutted thermostat or large thin brass washer. Kit had different sizes so flow was correct for radiator doing it's job (to fast flow, can't dissipate heat).
We bypassed trans cooler, we didn't want hot trans fluid ... radiator doing two jobs so separate trans cooler.
We added a product called "Wetter Water".
We ran a quality electric fan (can't recall, but lots of cfm). Electric water pump also.
Fan shroud for fan. 5 core radiator.

 

[finn1]

Too mush flow is an old wives tale. That’s not how hear transfer works.

A properly designed and functioning thermostat won’t cause overheating, ever.

Why do underdrive water pump pulleys on hot rods often cause overheating? All they do is slow down the water pump and reduce water flow.

Why do heavy duty trucks often have dual thermostats? Hint, it reduces restriction and increases water flow.

Physics and heat transfer theory is your friend.