What is the best tools for grading a field back to flat land

[JimR]

Moisture content of the soil will dictate the results as much as implement choice,,
I have a VERY heavy land plane,, but, if you try to pull it when the soil is dry, you might as well scrape concrete with a soup spoon,,

So, around here,, time of year is as important as implement,, spring being the best,, after the soil warms up, but, is still damp.

Summer will work too,, but, you have to "catch" the right time of soil moisture,,

AND, remember, if the soil is too wet, there will be more ruts AFTER leveling,, than before!!

This field is pretty loose and easy to work except where the grass is growing. There is lots of info here and on the links posted, THANKS. I like the idea of using a harrow. I may have access to one of those. I think it has two rows of pans on it. I hate to have to buy a grader scraper to use for this one job. I guess if I did I could just sell it afterwards.

 

[JimR]

Central MA has a lot of different soil types (my street has completely different soil from the next street over) but if it was previously used for crops it shouldn't be horrible to work with.

If more sandy, then darn near anything will work. If heavier with more clay, then judging moisture might take some trying and retrying until it has hit a "sweet spot" that works well with your tools.

I think your current game plan is solid, just don't be afraid to let it dry out and/or wait for rain as you work it to see what works better for you. A week or two's wait one way or the other might save you some frustration, but the best way to know is to just get on it and start playing.

Don't feel constrained to work "square" with the edges or the current furrows, your best bet might be to work it at angles to everything already there, and especially to your previous pass over an area. Also, working in "half passes" rather than trying to smooth everything in the first pass can help.

Our land is of the better kind compared to someone I know less than a half mile away with ledge all over their property. Previously I did rip up a small section maybe 300 x 100 using my box blade rippers to tear up the ground. Then I used my landscape rake to level it off. I was able to get it fairly smooth but it was a lot of work due to the weeds. I guess the first thing to do is get the weeds taken care of. I did mow them down as low as I could before I started doing this area. I can wait until Fall when the weeds die out too. I agree that working in both directions and angles will help greatly. I see a lot of tractor time coming up.

 

[oosik]

I also have a home made drag that works well. I pull it with my ATV. I predrilled hole for the big spikes. View attachment 664947

 

[bcp]

If you lived in flood irrigation territory, the old long landplanes are cheap as the leveling companies have shifted to laser-controlled scrapers.

High bid: $585

West Auctions - Auction: Tractors, Farm Equipment and Implements in Northern California ITEM: 14'x6' Marvin Landplane

Bruce

 

[JimR]

If you lived in flood irrigation territory, the old long landplanes are cheap as the leveling companies have shifted to laser-controlled scrapers.

High bid: $585

View attachment 664950

West Auctions - Auction: Tractors, Farm Equipment and Implements in Northern California ITEM: 14'x6' Marvin Landplane

Bruce

WOW, that would work on a huge flat field.

 

[bcp]

Before the long steel land planes became common, almost every large farm had a wooden one.

Bruce

 

[JimR]

I found a 9 - 10 foot double disk harrow with a hydraulic piston and wheels for decent money this morning. I talked with the owner who does farming. He told me that my 45HP Kioti with HST was too small to pull this harrow. We got to talking and he said he has bogged down his 70HP tractor using this harrow. He now has a much bigger one that he pulls with a 135hp tractor. He said a 6 or 7 foot would be the biggest that I probably could pull as long as I wasn't going too deep with the disks. He suggested using a rototiller on the fields or have if plowed. After that to go over it with a disk harrow of grader planer. I can always drag a section of chain link fence over it afterwards if it still needs more leveling. I have plenty of fence and poles. After looking at disc harrows for sale I remembered that my FIL had one back in the 70's that he parked in the woods out behind the barn at the farm. I had forgotten all about this. Sure enough it was still sitting out there in the thicket. I dug it out and it still spins and the levers and adjustments on it still work. One of the rock pans needs replacing. The discs are of the smooth type and it is only a single harrow.

 

[JimR]

Before the long steel land planes became common, almost every large farm had a wooden one.

View attachment 664953


Bruce

But that is not lawn quality grading. That sure does get the job done fast in a huge field. Lots of rocks on that property.

 

[npalen]

Someone may have mentioned using a box blade with a pair of gauge wheels on the back. These are sometimes referred to as soil movers or speed movers and are, in my opinion, the single best tool for your task at hand. There are 3PH models available as well as pull type.

The principle is that the wheels are following the blade thereby tending to produce a continuously flat surface. Some means of adjustability of the wheels vertically is necessary to provide for cutting action when needed and smoothing action when needed. The box blade is capable of doing both quite well.

Working an area for leveling can be accomplished by traveling in different directions to smooth the highs and lows.

Having ripper teeth on the box blade is a definite plus when working in untilled hard soil conditions.

 

[JimR]

Someone may have mentioned using a box blade with a pair of gauge wheels on the back. These are sometimes referred to as soil movers or speed movers and are, in my opinion, the single best tool for your task at hand. There are 3PH models available as well as pull type.

The principle is that the wheels are following the blade thereby tending to produce a continuously flat surface. Some means of adjustability of the wheels vertically is necessary to provide for cutting action when needed and smoothing action when needed. The box blade is capable of doing both quite well.

Working an area for leveling can be accomplished by traveling in different directions to smooth the highs and lows.

Having ripper teeth on the box blade is a definite plus when working in untilled hard soil conditions.

My box blade has rippers but no wheels.