ANOTHER ELECTRICAL QUESTION

[TBone]

You better look again! The parallel kit only supplies 1 leg of 120! It might be a 50 240 plug but only one leg is powered! I've been around generators and wiring quite a lot since I also deal with coastal storm and multiple day outages. The picture from Champion shows only 120 on a 240 plug!
Might not catch spell check but seem to know what I'm talking about since also sold Honda generators that offered parallel kits long before Champion ever was in business and it just double amperage not 2 120 legs at 50 amps!View attachment 666333

I really do believe you know what you're talking about but please explain the 50 amp receptacle in the parallel kit picture you posted. Looking at the receptacle as pictured: The semi-rounded slot on the left is ground? The slot on the right is neutral? Both the top and bottom slots are 120 volts? I realize they are both on the same circuit but do not both of them provide 120 volts? Please explain. I'm listening.

 

[TBone]

Here's a bunch of interlock kits for under $100
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-...r-Generator-Interlock-Kit-HOMRBGK2C/203030954

But you need a 240v generator.

In all reality, if you're dead set on using two generators to supply 120v only, you'd be better off and a lot safer just running extension cords to each item VS cobbling up your sub panel every time there's a power outage.

I would love to use an interlock kit rather than a transfer switch. Much cheaper and easier and just as safe. However, my sub-panel (Siemens) does not have a main, only branch circuit breakers. The main for the sub-panel is in the outside panel.

OK, I have another confession to make. I do own a 5500 watt 240 volt generator. It is loud as all get out and the voltage fluctuates pretty wildly when a load is applied (like a compressor starting on a refrigerator, freezer or window ac). I'm very concerned about my electronics using this generator. I CAN use it if I have to. I just don't really want to if I can help it.

The 240v generator has a bonded neutral. (I just checked it) I know the smaller ones have a floating neutral. (Checked them too) If I do buy the 100 amp transfer switch I still do not know how to hook up the neutrals or grounds from either generator. That has been my only question from the beginning of this post. THANKS for your help and advice. I really do appreciate it.

 

[Diggin It]

^^Use that one to power the panel. It'll run the furnace blower, water heater and all the motor appliances (unless you have the fancy 'smarty pants ones). Get the transfer witch with a twist lock 240V socket (or one add later) and a special generator cordset with two male twist lock plugs. That will connect the ground, neutral and both hots. You'll have to control your loads. You won't be able to run the water heater, range and dryer all at once for example, but you may be able to run each separately if you don't have much else running.

Use the smaller inverter generator on extension cords to power your computer, etc.

 

[homesteader13]

You can use a sub panel interlock.
A generator plug outside
And costco has a dual fuel Firman generator with a true 50 amp 240 volt and is in the "mid range' on noise level. For $699.00 with a lifetime warranty. Ive had mine over a year and ran it nonstop for 6 months to power my 50amp 5th wheel with 2 atc units after the floods in the Midwest.

 

[homesteader13]

And I forgot to add that no matter which way you go you HAVE to have a Fail-Safe transfer switch, whether it is a manual interlock, a manual transfer switch or an automatic transfer switch Lineman's lives depend on it.
I install a lot of household generators and there are a lot of options you could even do an on off on throw switch mounted outside as well.
On- utility power
Off- no power to panel
On- generaror power

Another point that I don't believe I saw mentioned was running one generator should be more fuel efficient than running two generators.

 

[Industrial Toys]

For all the FEAR around people backfeeding lines, it astounds me that, that cheesy latch assembly is all that it takes to meet compliance.

 

[homesteader13]

For all the FEAR around people backfeeding lines, it astounds me that, that cheesy latch assembly is all that it takes to meet compliance.

Yep, it is crazy. And that is one for a subpanel, the ones for main panels are a lot more heavy-duty but a manual or automatic transfer switch is definitely the choice for myself.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Makes you wonder, how many people would replace the whole thing if the 2 cent rivet or breaker shell broke?

 

[TBone]

^^Use that one to power the panel. It'll run the furnace blower, water heater and all the motor appliances (unless you have the fancy 'smarty pants ones). Get the transfer witch with a twist lock 240V socket (or one add later) and a special generator cordset with two male twist lock plugs. That will connect the ground, neutral and both hots. You'll have to control your loads. You won't be able to run the water heater, range and dryer all at once for example, but you may be able to run each separately if you don't have much else running.

Use the smaller inverter generator on extension cords to power your computer, etc.

I don't have a furnace blower, electric water heater, or electric range. (All gas) The only 240v things I have is a clothes dryer and central ac. An old fashioned clothes line will replace the dryer and the central ac will sit idle. A small window unit will keep us cool at night. That's why I'm trying to figure out the easiest and cheapest way to get us through a power outage. Practically all the lights in the house are led, my refrigerator and freezer are both newer and energy efficient and satellite receiver and televisions consume very little current. The biggest energy hogs we have are hair dryers and microwaves. Both would be idle during an outage.

 

[MossRoad]

I don't have a furnace blower, electric water heater, or electric range. (All gas) The only 240v things I have is a clothes dryer and central ac. An old fashioned clothes line will replace the dryer and the central ac will sit idle. A small window unit will keep us cool at night. That's why I'm trying to figure out the easiest and cheapest way to get us through a power outage. Practically all the lights in the house are led, my refrigerator and freezer are both newer and energy efficient and satellite receiver and televisions consume very little current. The biggest energy hogs we have are hair dryers and microwaves. Both would be idle during an outage.

Your cheapest way is with extension cords to your existing generators. Fool proof (well, fool resistant at least ), with no chance of backfeeding another circuit by accident.