Oil for new 21 HP Kawasaki FR651V SCAG mower engine

[fried1765]

The kind of engines that his aviation oil is used for is mostly technology from 1930AD. And it might as well be 1930BC as far as the difference in technology goes for automotive engines today.

Aircraft engines, and oils have not changed much because they can't without going through the certification process all over again.

Those engines are built with loose tolerances, and the oil is both blown out of them, and burned, at a fairly high rate. Most use a quart of oil every 5-10 hours, Since the oil gets replenished regularly, it doesn't have to last a long time.

Yeah it's oil, and so you could use it in a mower. And, if you had a beater, it may not be a bad idea.

But, it's no where near as good as circa 2020AD automotive oil is today. And, at $4 a quart for a modern, better oil, it's not really a good question.

The Kawasaki manual recommends SF, SG, SH, SJ, and SL.
Others here on TBN seem to think that since those are the "recommended" oils, that they are the ONLY oils that would comply with the warranty.
I have some Quaker State oil that is API rated SN.

That would seem to be a more current oil rating, (The Kawasaki manual was written in 2016) but .......SN is NOT listed by Kawasaki as "recommended".
I would logically assume that SN would be BETTER (more current) than all the mfg. suggested oils.
Yet,.....even though it has a more current/better rating, I should NOT use it, because it is not listed as recommended by the manufacturer?

 

[rScotty]

I have some Quaker State oil that is API rated SN.

That would seem to be a more current oil rating, (The Kawasaki manual was written in 2016) but .......SN is NOT listed by Kawasaki as "recommended".
I would logically assume that SN would be BETTER (more current) than all the mfg. suggested oils.
Yet,.....even though it has a more current/better rating, I should NOT use it, because it is not listed as recommended by the manufacturer?

I think you just like to argue.

"More current" doesn't necessarily mean "better". More current oils might simply have additives to enhance their emission reduction systems - such is the case with the diesel CF thu CI-4 series. The ones with more current rating have nothing to do with "better" or with lubrication at all. The more current ratings have to do with the way carbon particles are suspended within the oil.

The suspension of carbon in the oil is necessary for some engines and detrimental to others.
rScotty

 

[RickB]

Considering that the SN classification was developed in 2010 Kawasaki may have a very good reason not to include it as a recommended oil in a 2016 publication.
I too think you just like to argue. It is interesting that you spend so much time bickering here and apparently so little time communicating with Kawasaki.

 

[rScotty]

Now hold on a minute RickB, isn't arguing is a part of how progress gets made and decisions made? "Bickering" is a bit harsh....

 

[RickB]

"Bickering" is a bit harsh....

Indeed it is.

 

[fried1765]

Considering that the SN classification was developed in 2010 Kawasaki may have a very good reason not to include it as a recommended oil in a 2016 publication.
I too think you just like to argue. It is interesting that you spend so much time bickering here and apparently so little time communicating with Kawasaki.

You are absolutely CORRECT!

I am very sorry that I have bothered you with my questions.
I did not realize that posing questions, and using logical reasoning, would be considered "bickering"!

Attempting to validate opinions, is now defined as "bickering"?
In the waning days of my 70's, things can be confusing to me, as I attempt to.... "choose truth over facts".

 

[dodge man]

I get what you are trying to do. You have a bunch of oil laying around and you would like to use it up. Makes sense to me and I also understand why you want something more than vague opinions on why you should not use it. The problem is I don’t think there is a lot of testing done on 30 year old oil designed for aircraft used in mowers.

When it comes to oil I personally get tired of the old saying oil is cheap, you should change your oil every xxxxxxx miles or xxxxxx hours. One oil change is cheap but over time it adds up. I also feel it is wasting a precious resource. I more or less just change my oil at the recommend interval or a little sooner.

In your case I just do not think the risk is worth the reward to use the old oil.

 

[fried1765]

I get what you are trying to do. You have a bunch of oil laying around and you would like to use it up. Makes sense to me and I also understand why you want something more than vague opinions on why you should not use it. The problem is I don’t think there is a lot of testing done on 30 year old oil designed for aircraft used in mowers.

When it comes to oil I personally get tired of the old saying oil is cheap, you should change your oil every xxxxxxx miles or xxxxxx hours. One oil change is cheap but over time it adds up. I also feel it is wasting a precious resource. I more or less just change my oil at the recommend interval or a little sooner.

In your case I just do not think the risk is worth the reward to use the old oil.

Thank You!
I have concluded that I will NOT use the 20W-50 Phillips aviation oil in the 21 HP Kawasaki.
I WILL use the Phillips oil in the 2 mower hydro units.

 

[ray66v]

The Kawasaki manual recommends SF, SG, SH, SJ, and SL.
Others here on TBN seem to think that since those are the "recommended" oils, that they are the ONLY oils that would comply with the warranty.
I have some Quaker State oil that is API rated SN.

That would seem to be a more current oil rating, (The Kawasaki manual was written in 2016) but .......SN is NOT listed by Kawasaki as "recommended".
I would logically assume that SN would be BETTER (more current) than all the mfg. suggested oils.
Yet,.....even though it has a more current/better rating, I should NOT use it, because it is not listed as recommended by the manufacturer?

In this case, it may be true that you would be better of with the older standard.

Here is the argument for NOT using Automotive oil at all, in your Kawasaki engine: Small Engine Oil vs Automotive Oil – Wenger

I can assure it will not blow up in either case, If there was an issue everyone would be talking about it.

My father has always run house brand 10w-30 automotive oil in his Kawasaki engine.:confused3:

 

[fried1765]

In this case, it may be true that you would be better of with the older standard.

Here is the argument for NOT using Automotive oil at all, in your Kawasaki engine: Small Engine Oil vs Automotive Oil – Wenger

I can assure it will not blow up in either case, If there was an issue everyone would be talking about it.

My father has always run house brand 10w-30 automotive oil in his Kawasaki engine.:confused3:

Good info!
You make an interesting case regarding your father.

Reminds me of my dad,
He bought a new Homelite XL-12.
That saw was NEVER even stored near any 2-cycle oil!
House brand automotive 30W is all it ever got, and it lasted for 40 years of hard homeowner use.