Is my engine seized?

[ericm979]

The tires will probably just slide if you try to pull it in gear. I'd remove the glow plugs and try turning it over by hand. Or even try without removing the plugs- unless it's up against compression the crank ought to move a little before coming up against the next compression stroke. Make sure to turn it the correct direction.

What's a "starter bump"? Did the fan move?

 

[Texasmark]

Can you get voltage across the starter? If so, how much does it measure when you attempt to crank? If you can't get voltage across the starter, find your starting solenoid. Get your battery charger and some 14-16 AWG jumper wires...for smaller tips that may be needed to access the terminals, or if room just use your battery charger terminals. Put one on the engine in a good grounding connection. Find the hot small terminal on the solenoid and remove the existing wire...for safety.

Turn your battery charger on and strike the small, non grounded terminal on your solenoid and see if you get the expected response. If so, you have an interlock open somewhere. If no result, take a pair of common pliers, and using the handle end, jump across the ⅜" copper studs on the starter solenoid. .....expect a spark. Does that roll the engine. If so, get a new solenoid.

If not, get some help and measure the voltage across the starter.....the actual starter case to copper stud input terminal of the starter when you have applied voltage to it. Is is at least 10V? If so suspect your starter, brushes would be my guess. If less than 10V measure the voltage at your battery terminals under the same conditions? At least 11 volts? If so, you have bad connections between the starter and the battery.....don't forget that a lot of batteries negative terminals are connected somewhere on the engine/chassis proper and the connection from that surface to the starter case is via the starter case/housing to the engine block to the location of the (-) wire termination....clean up the starter interface, including mounting bolts.

On rolling the engine, I'd remove the starter and using a pry bar on the starter ring on the flywheel to see if the engine will roll over.....since you don't seem to have pulling options.

 

[LouNY]

Gentlemen. Those are all excellent suggestions. Thank you so much. I'm so upset about it, I can't think straight. It must have developed an oil leak because I know I checked it within the last two or three months and it was full as usual. LouNY that's a great idea except I first must get the FEL off the ground to be able to move the tractor. I can chain my dually truck to it and have the wife pull forward slightly while I watch to see if things turn. That may even be what it takes to break it free. I'll post back with results. The PTO is mechanical and it is disengaged, but I didn't think of it until you mentioned it K5lwq. Only 550hrs. on the machine. I'll check for switches too when I get back into tomorrow. Roadworthy and 4570Man, if all else fails I'll figure out how to fit a bar onto the crank, but the engine compartment doesn't seem very roomy, so hopefully it doesn't come to that. Thank you all for giving be such sound advice.

Loaders are usually on the ground when issues happen, simply attach a chain to the tractor,
lay it on the ground behind the bucket and around the side and to the tow vehicle.
Give it a gentle pull and see if the chain rolls right under the bucket and lifts it up a bit.
Alternatively use a jack to get the bucket of the ground and slide the chain under.
Also placing the loader valve in float or lift when lifting a bucket by any means then going to the mid point
it will usually hold a bucket up.

As far as the gearing being to low to roll the engine over, I've started many tractors by towing or even just coasting down a hill and bumping the clutch out to crank the engine over, just use your highest gear.

 

[Asteral]

If you can get power to the ignition switch to where the tractor tries to crank over but wont, you can hold down on the ignition key to try and start while at the same time holding down on your joystick, the battery should be able to give the HYP pumps enough juice to slowly lift the FEL off the ground a bit. We have to do that here from time to time for tractors that will turn over but not crank.

 

[radios1]

is the warranty still in effect on this?. if so, your dealer will fix it..

 

[denchen]

Make sure one of the pistons that is coming onto compression is not full of a liquid that should not be there. By getting it to turn by brute force is going to bend or break something expensive.

 

[4570Man]

is the warranty still in effect on this?. if so, your dealer will fix it..

The operator running the machine dry of oil and seizing it ( if that’s what actually happened) yea I’m sure they’ll cover it under warranty.

 

[Gaiter]

What does a good bump mean? Are you getting voltage through the solenoid to the starter when trying to start?

So many, many times here, a 努eak starter is often from a bad battery ground connection to frame. It痴 easy to have a connection where the voltage looks ok, and connection can conduct enough electricity for small loads, but connection is not good enough to conduct the large amperage of starter.

Thanks CobyRupert. I also have had that experience with loose and/or burnt battery chassis ground connections, and that was the first thing I checked even though I failed to mention it. The chassis ground is definitely dirty, but it is tight and fully intact and not burnt. The positive connection at the starter solenoid is also tight and fully intact.

And, to you and everyone else who wants to know what a good bump means...I was trying to describe the strength or solidity of the sound that the starter solenoid was making when I keyed the ignition start position. It was loud and clear as though it was getting plenty of amperage. Definitely not my best description ever.

 

[Gaiter]

Can you get voltage across the starter? If so, how much does it measure when you attempt to crank? If you can't get voltage across the starter, find your starting solenoid. Get your battery charger and some 14-16 AWG jumper wires...for smaller tips that may be needed to access the terminals, or if room just use your battery charger terminals. Put one on the engine in a good grounding connection. Find the hot small terminal on the solenoid and remove the existing wire...for safety.

Turn your battery charger on and strike the small, non grounded terminal on your solenoid and see if you get the expected response. If so, you have an interlock open somewhere. If no result, take a pair of common pliers, and using the handle end, jump across the ⅜" copper studs on the starter solenoid. .....expect a spark. Does that roll the engine. If so, get a new solenoid.

If not, get some help and measure the voltage across the starter.....the actual starter case to copper stud input terminal of the starter when you have applied voltage to it. Is is at least 10V? If so suspect your starter, brushes would be my guess. If less than 10V measure the voltage at your battery terminals under the same conditions? At least 11 volts? If so, you have bad connections between the starter and the battery.....don't forget that a lot of batteries negative terminals are connected somewhere on the engine/chassis proper and the connection from that surface to the starter case is via the starter case/housing to the engine block to the location of the (-) wire termination....clean up the starter interface, including mounting bolts.

On rolling the engine, I'd remove the starter and using a pry bar on the starter ring on the flywheel to see if the engine will roll over.....since you don't seem to have pulling options.

Thanks for typing out that whole procedure, Texasmark. That may yet be very helpful.

 

[Gaiter]

Loaders are usually on the ground when issues happen, simply attach a chain to the tractor,
lay it on the ground behind the bucket and around the side and to the tow vehicle.
Give it a gentle pull and see if the chain rolls right under the bucket and lifts it up a bit.
Alternatively use a jack to get the bucket of the ground and slide the chain under.
Also placing the loader valve in float or lift when lifting a bucket by any means then going to the mid point
it will usually hold a bucket up.

As far as the gearing being to low to roll the engine over, I've started many tractors by towing or even just coasting down a hill and bumping the clutch out to crank the engine over, just use your highest gear.

Today I did have time to chain up to the tractor and did what you suggested, putting the chain under the loader and then up to the tractor frame to get a bit of lift when the chain tightened. Put the control in float, and shifted to the highest gears, could see the back wheels turn from the cab of the truck when I pulled. Wifey confirmed that the fan blades turned. Was greatly relieved and also baffled at my results from yesterday. Rechecked that battery and unlike yesterday, it failed the load test horribly dropping from 13v to 8v immediately upon loading. The battery bears a 9/18 date stamp so I really didn't expect a failure there. Tbh-I did not actually load test it yesterday. I assumed it was performing as it should when the headlights did not dim as I keyed the ignition start position. The starter bump of which I spoke yesterday was my poor description of the strength of the sound that the starter solenoid made when keying the starter. Tomorrow morning I'll secure a new battery and hopefully that will solve the no start problem. I still have to figure out where the oil leak is. There is pump piped on the outside of the engine that says gear pump. It was soaked with oil and dirt. I degreased it today and will watch to see if it is the source of the leak. I will of course post back tomorrow with updates. Thanks to everyone who has commented and took an interest in helping me. I will be certain to pay it forward as the opportunity presents itself.