Vinyl Siding Question...

[Richard]

Wife wants to add some "Cedar Shakes" to the end of the house. She's found them in vinyl....which if we use, would have a benefit of not being wood and needing maintenance issues 35 feet up in the air. (I currently have full time access to a bucket lift which is more than enough to get me there)

We currently have some T-111 siding on this end of the house. I'm wondering (and fearing) we'd be better off yanking the T-111 down and replacing it with something more smooth so we have a flat surface for the vinyl.

Couple questions...

1. Is that correct that I should pull the T-111 down and replace it with something like chipboard or maybe CDX??
2. The vendor doesn't seem too helpful... so, I called the manufacturer (Foundry Vinyl Shakes) and THEY have been non-existent so far with help. They only have a single person company wide that can answer a technical question.... I pressed her on that and she dug her heels in....they only have ONE person.... HE has no boss or anyone he reports to.... and he's got to call me back. (I'm already waiting near 2-weeks for his FIRST return call....but I left another message)
3. Are there any trim pieces that we'd need to use as a base or cap or edging to fit in around a window?


This section of house is let's call it... 20x20 however in truth it goes to the roof so you have the narrowing of the roof line on it as you reach the peak. Point being, it is NOT a large area....the issue is it's so high but again, I've got a lift right now....so would like to get ALL the pieces before we start.

Wife also wanted to know about TYVEC. Would/should that be installed (none currently) If so, would that go over the T-111/new substrate or, would it go UNDER the T-111/new substrate? In other words, is it studs, Tyvek, exterior plywood then shakes or is it studs, exterior plywood, Tyvek then shakes?

We tend to do these type things ourselves.... as we look at some of the work that has been done prior, we know that we'll put much more detail into the work.... but we don't know all of our needs and so far, been tough finding someone to help which I find amazing. Well....on second thought, maybe I'm not as surprised as thought I'd be.

 

[MossRoad]

I just got done doing three 24x8 walls of regular vinyl siding on our garage addition. I watched a couple hours of installation videos before attempting it, as it was my first venture. I'd say it was a piece of cake - if you take your time and do your homework. However, with something like cedar shake look, I'd guess there's a pattern to it, so you'd have to be sure and follow the pattern, figure centers accurately so the ends come out evenly spaced, watch joints, etc....

I've read you can install vinyl over t1-11 as long as it's in good condition. You'd put tyvek over the t1-11, under the vinyl. However, you have to remember that the windows, doors, etc... will be trimmed to the t1-11, and when you go to put the j-channel around the windows, it might stick past the windows and doors, etc... so then you'd either have to live with that, or extend the window and door trim, or remove the t1-11 and put in something thinner, etc...

As I did ours, the steps were putting in all the trim work first, J-channel, corner posts, F-channel, utility trim, etc... that took the most time. The siding itself went pretty quickly after that.

I used the videos on the manufacturer's site first, then went to u-tube and watched a bunch of contractors and do-it-yourselfers to get a large range of experiences and opinions.

 

[MossRoad]

Videos like these are really helpful to get a start on your thinking...

Installing Cedar Impressions(R) Double 7" Straight Edge Perfection Shingles 3G - YouTube

How To Install Vinyl Shakes (Siding) - YouTube

 

[Rustyiron]

The flatter your wall the better your shakes will look.
I'd find a Certainteed dealer and use their material. A long standing nationwide company with a great website. They have several "shake" options. I've seen vinyl/plastic shakes for 30+ years by specialty plastic companies, and a lot of them are painted and- or fading badly. Certainteed is a major siding manufacturer that has introduced a line of shakes about 10-15 years ago and it's a solid product backed by a big company.
(we used to "side" 500 homes a year, for 20 years. Certainteed was one of the better products we sold to our builders)

 

[cdaigle430]

I just did this on my whole house and garage last month. We had CertainTeed monogram arbor blend vinyl siding installed and they recommended we leave the T1-11 siding. My house and garage had T1-11 all the way around. We also put half inch rigid foam board over the T1-11 before the siding went on. I cant say if its the same for the shakes though-which was something we originally thought about doing.

Yes-as long as the T1-11 is not rotted or warped its better to leave it on. Vinyl siding is considered for aesthetics and less maintenance but by itself doesn't add to the structure. '

I was planning on doing this myself but the biggest pain is the aluminum trim work that goes around doors and windows....that does require skill and a brake. So glad I hired someone-would have taken me months vs two weels.

 

[Richard]

or fading badly.

Never thought of that aspect. Oh well.... in 30 years, I'll be dead.... well... unless I've got my fathers gene... (just turned 91)

 

[MF243RedTop]

My parents place has had vinyl siding over T1-11 for 20+ years now.. no issues.

 

[MossRoad]

We have vinyl siding on our house. I had them put it on over the original wood shake shingles, which were high maintenance. They repaired any damaged shingles, then put 1/4" foam and moisture barrier (can't remember the order). Then they spent about 10-12 days with a sheet metal bend/brake making aluminum casing for all of the wooden windows and the doors and putting up the vinyl trim work. It only took them 2 days to put up the siding. The money is in the details, as they say. That was around 1997. Still looks good. I'm happy with it. :thumbsup:

 

[MossRoad]

You might want to look into the wait time on the product. Ours that I just put up last month was in-stock product and color and it still took 7 weeks to get it.

Also, you don't want to put it up when it's cold. It expands and contracts quite a bit (not sure about the shingle style though), so when it's cold, you may not leave enough room at installation time. Then, when it warms up, it'll look wrinkly if it doesn't have enough expansion room. Also,it also cracks if you whack it with a hammer when it's cold. And it's a lot harder to cut with shears/snips when it's cold.

 

[Oldpath05]

Option 2>> ckshingle.com