ovrszd
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- May 27, 2006
- Messages
- 32,246
- Location
- Missouri
- Tractor
- Kubota M9540, Ford 3910FWD, Ford 555A, JD2210
I'm not sure I get the sonotube bit, what's that for? I've given up on the gantry idea, if I go with a 2' grid of rebar suspended on the brick things it should be good to go and have the PEX zip tied to that with 12" spacing or more. Looking online a 9000lb lift should be perfectly fine on a 4" slab so flat 6" should be just fine without anything fancy.
As far as spacing for the lift, my longest vehicle is I think 22' long (crew cab long bed '97 F350) so 14' from the door should be fine for the center of the posts.
Rather than having the 4x13 box for the lift, the sonotubes would create two 24" or whatever size you chose circles where there would be no steel or PEX. And if you thought necessary, no gravel in the tube would put your concrete thickness greater.
Again, I suggest you visit a shop using two post lifts and see how far from the door their posts are. I only have a four post lift so can't help you there. I'll text my boys and ask about theirs. They use two post lifts.
Yeah, 14' might work. My Son has a crew long bed SD. I'll get a measurement from his shop for you.
In regards to PEX. Everyone around here staples the PEX to the insulation board. Then suspends the steel above it using chairs. PEX is laid 12" spaced. One foot of PEX for each square foot of floor space. Loops usually 200' long. As equal as you possibly can. The length can be varied to fit the length of your rolls without waste.
In regards to Drilling holes for the lift post fasteners. The "experts" prefer to use the "wedge" type bolts. They also drill their holes clear thru the concrete if possible. Reason being if one fails and won't bind itself to the concrete they can just drive it down thru the concrete into the dirt with a second bolt.