Ballast want get rid of calcium in tires

[hosspuller]

Don't need no stink'in Bead Buster ... Gots me a Tire Hoe...

 

[PILOON]

Don't need no stink'in Bead Buster ... Gots me a Tire Hoe...

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LOL, tried that once but all I managed to do was scrap the tire, well it was actually scrap B4,
I was hoping to save the rim. Man it was really stuck!

 

[4570Man]

Don't need no stink'in Bead Buster ... Gots me a Tire Hoe...

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I’ve tried that with old tires laying around just to see if it worked and I never got it to without damage. Maybe if the tires weren’t ancient it would have worked.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I made myself a sliding hammer for debeading tires. A piece of heavy wall (3/8") tubing about 4' long. Weld one end shut. I took a piece of 3/4" rod 5' long and welded a 4" piece of steel onto the end. (Well rounded to avoid damaging the tire and curved to approximately match the rim) You set the end against the tire and start working it under the bead with the sliding hammer part. Usually it doesn't take too long and the tire is debeaded. The best part is you don't need to worry about our aim like you do with a regular tire hammer.

 

[LouNY]

You can even get nice fancy ones of those;
slide hammer bead breaker;
Amazon.com: STKUSA Stark Heavy Duty Tire Bead Breaker Slide Hammer Impact for Truck Car Trailer Portable Tire Changing Sliding Hammer, Yellow: Automotive
but they work better with the tire laying flat on the ground,'they do work on a mounted tractor tire but not as well as the manual screw type bead buster.

 

[stuckmotor]

Why not just add stabilizer to the calcium like is done wid plate bottom ice cream trucks and trailers? If no tubes in tires whoever loaded dem should have stabilized to begin with.

(removed),
When I saw how this thread was titled, I figured it was one you had begun. (-:

 

[bironacad]

Put me in the camp of doing it myself. Adding beat juice is a different story but I've even replaced the rear wheels on my 580K by myself. Tractor tires are super easy since there's no lip on the bead seat like an automotive wheel. Now if your wheels are rusted then all bets are off (that holds true for a dealer). If you're seeing rust on the outside of the wheel then the inside is most likely a lot worse. I would suggest getting inner tubes when you put it back together.

Once the bead is unseated a couple tire spoons, some dish soap mixed with water, and you'll have the tire off. A second person is always helpful. I did my backhoe tires on the ground because it's easier to push down on the bead to break the seal and when the tires alone weigh about 200 lbs you basically roll them next to the wheel and flop them on top.

Probably with a CUT I would find a spot that the calcium could leak onto without hurting anything. I would put the valve stem at it's lowest position and remove the core. Be careful as it'll come squirting out. If you want to do it with a little less mess jack the wheel up so you can turn it and put the stem in it's highest position, remove the core and install one of the ballast installing tools, turn the tire so the stem is at it's lowest position and let the jack down. Just the weight of the tractor should push most of it out. Once empty the bead may break on it's own. If not I would put the tractor in 2wd, step on the opposite side brake, and try to move a little. I can't tell you how many time I've had a tractor bead slip because I didn't pay close enough attention to the pressure (or lack of enough) in the tire.

Okay I am in the camp of doing it myself, lol, if possible. I am laughing because I am the guy that use to lift a rock and carry it when I owned a wheel barrow. Maybe not the brightest, okay not the brightest, age has made me look for help. I am with you, if I can do it, I like to do it but....

Do you have any ideas on how to deal with the heavy loaded tire if removed and then how to put back on without messing ***** up?

My reason is the wiper washer reservoir is behind the wheel and impossible to remove without the wheel off and I have bought a new reservoir. I have given up on getting the tires off the rims for the interim. I am now trying to figure how to change the reservoir. The tire would be a pain, without the fluid so loaded I need some ideas. When it comes to tire removal I will call a tire guy, I seem to have learned my limits after reading this thread.

 

[oosik]

Ha, ha - - the reason I recommended a "tire guy" do the work - I tried widening the rims on my first tractor. It was a 1982 Ford 1700. It had agricultural rims. I got the tire/rim off the tractor and had the inner rim half off. It started to tip and I almost got caught under it - as it fell over. I think those tires weighed 425 to 450#. The tires on my M6040 are filled with RimGuard and weigh over 1100#. No way I want to fool with that much weight.

 

[user.69169]

Okay I am in the camp of doing it myself, lol, if possible. I am laughing because I am the guy that use to lift a rock and carry it when I owned a wheel barrow. Maybe not the brightest, okay not the brightest, age has made me look for help. I am with you, if I can do it, I like to do it but....

Do you have any ideas on how to deal with the heavy loaded tire if removed and then how to put back on without messing ***** up?

I am now trying to figure how to change the reservoir. The tire would be a pain, without the fluid so loaded I need some ideas. When it comes to tire removal I will call a tire guy, I seem to have learned my limits after reading this thread.

Walk in de park if you got flat concrete floor.
Grab hnk of skatewheel conveyor bout 2 feet long and sit on floor wheels down. Jack up wheel and slip conveyor in @ right angle to tire. Lower carefully till weight of tire on conveyor, strap tire to conveyor, remove bolts and roll tire away from machine. Use small wheel blocks to keep conveyor in place.
OR
Go to Amasucker and buy dual wheel tire jack and brag bout what you bought on TBN.

No flat floor we got other ways.

 

[LouNY]

What we do whe moving a heavy tire and wheel assembly is to get the tractor ready to be jacked up.
If you are going to pull both of the same axle have blocks and wheel chocks in place.
Once you get the lug nut off and the jack adjusted so the wheel is loose on the lugs it can be carefully walked of the hub and away from
the axle were it can be carefully rolled to a safe place to rest it.
As long as you are carefull and keep the tire upright you can handle a large loaded wheel and tire if it starts to get away from you you have to be willing to step back and let it tear up whatever it wants to.
Also an engine hoist works good for holding a tire up right,
I built an engine hoist a few (several) years ago ad we have pulled a few wheels off using it, usually have to use a couple of bars or a come a long to get it to move as the castors are hard to roll.