3 Point Hitch Control Locking Knob

[Oldtoad]

The one thing I absolutely hate about the Kubota is the locking knob for the 3 point hitch control.
It is tiny, difficult to turn and does not lock up where it should to lock the hitch position where it is wanted.
Anyone else have this problem and a working solution?

 

[Citydude]

The nob on my “Grand” L4060 is pretty cheesy as well.

 

[sea2summit]

Locking knob for the 3pt? Do you mean lowering speed control valve?

 

[Peter 315]

I think he means that little black knob that you can lock the lever in any position as a stop numbered 1 to 8 etc........

 

[sea2summit]

I think he means that little black knob that you can lock the lever in any position as a stop numbered 1 to 8 etc........

Ahh yes, I think I did use that once. Agree, pretty useless. If I do anything ground engaging I used draft control but never really absolute depth control I guess.

 

[JethroB]

I think he means that little black knob that you can lock the lever in any position as a stop numbered 1 to 8 etc........

Yes, that adjustable stop on the Grand L is a pretty poor & pitiful design. Rather delicate too. I use it a lot with the Bush hog and disk harrow.

 

[mcfarmall]

I put a drop of oil on the threads of mine and that made it easier to tighten. If that proves to be less than effective long term, I'll make a bigger knob for it.

 

[Oldtoad]

Yes, we are not alone! Thanks for replies.
Bigger diameter knob not a solution on this Kubota, not enough space available with a bigger knob to get the grubby lunch hooks (fingers) on the thing.
Betting someone with more common sense than me on this website has a simple solution.

 

[K5lwq]

Maybe post a picture of what it looks like for folks like me that does not have a Kubota. We might be able to give some ideas if we see what is going on.

 

[OldPaint]

Maybe post a picture of what it looks like for folks like me that does not have a Kubota. We might be able to give some ideas if we see what is going on.

It's just a thumbscrew that fits in the slot for the lift lever that puts a mechanical stop for the down motion. It is in a pretty narrow slot for the level control lever, meaning folks with big fingers gonna have fun with it. Pretty much just a carriage bolt with a plastic thumbscrew/acorn nut on it. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to coat the threads with a light grease or graphite on occasion. You can see the ground/tire through the slot, so anything that slings off the tire is going to get up there and create a problem. I'm considering removing mine because the larger R14's seem to be so tall that the lift doesn't go low enough to reattach some implements unless I park them on blocks/pallets, etc., or keep a landscaping timber nearby to pry the front of the implement up. That's whole other topic, though. I just looked through the parts manual for the LX2610SUHSD, and don't see the knob in the drawings (or I would have posted an image). Found the lever and the insert for the fender, but no knob and bolt. Will have to get a photo another time.

 

[Oldtoad]

Here it is, all cold and crusty.
Must be a simple solution.

 

[Peter 315]

I never use the stop.....

 

[Oldtoad]

Would love to, however the lever drops without the stop.
Go figure.

 

[Peter 315]

You should be able to adjust it so it won't drop..

 

[Citydude]

The adjustment is the issue. Little tiny knob and you have to reef on it to stay in position. Cheesy design

 

[ptsg]

Would love to, however the lever drops without the stop.
Go figure.

You may need to adjust the frictions discs at the end of the 3 pt lever, where it pivots.

 

[Oldtoad]

Peter 315 might be on to something.
Looked at the manual, not inclined to mess with the linkage.
How about a wedge next to the lever. Friction would hold the lever in place. Something easy to adjust, something that will stay in place.

Will check out the friction discs in the manual.
Thanks ptsg.

 

[Peter 315]

I just looked you can adjust it 2 nuts..easy to see I don't know about getting 2 wrenches on the nuts....

 

[OldPaint]

You should be able to adjust it so it won't drop..

There's a way to fix that.



Hold item 050 (Friction Nut) and loosen item 060 (Jamb Nut). Snug item 050 until you get the desired friction on the lever. Hold 050 and tighten 060 to prevent it from moving again. Check items 040 closely to make sure that they are not damaged and need replacing. The lever should be sandwiched between two of item 040. (See diagram)

The little thumbscrew was only meant to stop the lever at a particular depth, not hold the lever at the top. Sort of a faux draft control. If the lever isn't staying up, then the friction on it is set wrong. The depth stop would normally be used to prevent a turning plow from digging too deep, or a disk harrow from bottoming out, etc. It's just in the way if you're using scraping devices (box blade, grader blade, land shaver, etc.) unless you're doing a long flat driveway and just want to skim the crown. If you have any significant grade changes, you're gonna get the see-saw effect at the back wheels lifting the blade before you want, and digging in when the front wheels start uphill. These problems are why there's an operator in the seat (aside from the therapeutic tractor time, of course).

 

[Peter 315]

you can see the nuts here......