getting better snow traction with R1 tires

[RjCorazza]

Other than not having R1's I'm in a similar position where I can't scratch up driveways. I plow 10-12 long drives, some steep. I grooved my R4's and have no problem backing up driveways then plowing down. I do have chains that I have never used over 10 seasons.
A very specific contract goes a long way in preventing problems. I specify what may happen to a surface with chains, steel plow edges, and the limitations of polyurethane edges. Like the OP, I have a good reputation with my customers, but I'm certainly not going to re seal a driveway because of light scrape marks from a steel plow edge, particularly when they have the option of specifying a poly edge for an additional fee.
Hazarding a guess, grooving an R1 doesn't appear a whole lot different than grooving front R4's. Similar amount of material present.

 

[rScotty]

Did you ever try chains? How did they work?

I simply put chains on for any deep snow - and in the mountains of Colorado we get a lot of snow.

The nice thing about chains is you can make them yourself for cheap. Usually we make them up out of a couple of sets of disgarded automotive chains - that also allows you to make them fit nice and tight. All it takes is a vise, some big pliers, and a few hours to make a nice set for the rears. If you put some on the fronts they can be much less aggressive. The trick for rear chains is to use enough cross links in a center "X" configuration so that the chains don't fall down between the lugs of the R1s. With decent chains, we rarely need 4wd. Lots of traction. Depending on the type of snow, Sometimes it is just too much traction to be using 4wd.

Readng through some of the earlier posts here I was surprised that some tractor owners talked themselves out of chains without ever having tried them.
rScotty

 

[crazyal]

I've never had much luck when trying to push an implement backwards up a hill. It just removes too much weight from the rear wheels. I think I would try to make a pass with the blower about an inch above the driveway when backing up a steep hill. Then when at the top turn around and do a final pass going back down. If you have a loader on your tractor you could put some weight in the bucket. From the sounds of it what you really need is a front mount blower but if new tires is out of the question so would a front mount set up. They do make pavement friendly chains but I've never tried them so I don't know how friendly they are or how much they will slow you down. Another option might be to get a plastic cutting edge for your bucket. It would be a consumable but it would keep from wearing down the bucket and scratching pavement.

 

[oosik]

My first tractor - Ford 1700 4WD - was brand new when I bought it in 1982. With a Land Pride rear blade it did wonders plowing snow on my mile long gravel driveway. It had R-1's. Some winters we actually got quite a bit of snow - around 70" total. The berms would slowly creep in from both sides of the driveway.

I'd have to mount the 3-point blower. Without exception - I would have to instal my heavy, tractor, V-bar chains - front and rear. This kept the blower on the straight and narrow when blowing back the berms. I disliked the chains - tractor rode quite rough with chains installed.

 

[Katahdin]

I don't think you have enough weight. I'm reading the L3800 only weighs 2600 pounds or so. I don't know if that includes the loader, but if you're floating the loader its not helping with weight for traction.

I'm running R1s with a 3500lb LX, plus 900 lbs for loader (floating only snow plow), 800lbs liquid in rear tires, 755lbs rear snowblower = Almost 6000lbs weight on the R1 Tires and no traction problems.

 

[old and tired]

...L3800 only weighs 2600 pounds or so. I don't know if that includes the loader,....

Just the tractor... I forget, does the OP have his tires filled with anything?? That's a bunch of weight directly on the tread...

 

[nfisheremti]

View attachment 685620 - Unfortunately I can't comment on the R1's, what I can tell you is it made a tremendous difference in my R4's - I go places now that I could not previously without spinning - I'm not sure if just the sips would help, it may, but to me would be limited as the groves would grab and hold forward / backward - I believe the sips would help with turning more than travel.....

yes. my whole point. I've found tons of info on siping and grooving R4 tires. Nothing. Absolutely nothing on siping and grooving R1 tires.

George: I like the idea of going down, and I do that where space allows. I have a few that for practical reasons I can't. One I have to take a running start forward, get as far up as I can, and back drag with the bucket, and go again, then blow the pile away when I'm done. The silly thing is I used to do this very same driveway with my B2400 with filled Turf/Ag combi tires in the rear, and turf tires up front. I only occasionally had issues with this one, and no issues on any other driveway. The L3800 is biggerer, gobs more power, and absolutely no traction. The rears are not filled, but I have added close to 200# of wheel weights.

We are all on the side of a mountain. The next ridge over is the 2002 olympic park. We are steep, and the properties are all $,$$$,$$$+ (almost all) I just bought this L3800, I don't have any $$ left for new tires. I was hoping to find a low buck way to improve my traction. Chains are out, I'm not a paving contractor, and I don't need to make a bunch of insurance claims in the spring. I heard that grooving and siping works really well on R4 tires, but have no info on anyone who's tried it on R1s. IF anyone has, please post your thoughts here. Did it work? What pattern did you use. Grooves only? Sipes only? Both? I thought I'd try making mine look a lot like R14 tires with sipes across the lugs. I'm afraid I'll end up chunking them though. And while replacing R1s is cheaper, it's still out of the budget (this has been a crappy snow year, I am not sure how I'll make the payments on the new equipment as it is.

Because of the poor traction, I take too long on each property. Because of poor traction, my road speed is too low. It takes me too long to complete my route. Some customers have already left for work (or skiing) by the time I get to them. Now I have those annoying packed down tracks. One customer toward the end of my route has even cleared his own driveway, and has asked that he be cleared only for large snows. This is costing me real money.

 

[nfisheremti]

Just the tractor... I forget, does the OP have his tires filled with anything?? That's a bunch of weight directly on the tread...

My tires are not filled. I do have ~200lb of wheel weights on each tire.

Tractor is 2600 + ~900 for the loader +~500 for the snowblower (1970's FarmKing), +200 ballast each rear tire +me (~200) for a total weight of ~4k

Katahdin: I grew up in Bridgeton, ME. I know Scarborough. It's flat. In comparison to PC Utah, Bridgeton is flat. ****, Bethel is flat.

While R1s and R4s have some things in common. R4s do have a lot more rubber, thicker shallower lugs, and many more of them. I would say 2x the number of lugs. I'm very afraid of chunking the tread. If I do chunk them, then I'd have to run on chunked treads. While R1s are cheaper, and I might be able to afford to replace a tire, why would I do that? If I'm going to get new tires, I'll get Hakka T1s or at least R14s.

 

[airbiscuit]

Why not try a set of those rubber chains on the front tires? You should be able to notice if there is an improvement in your traction and steering. If they help, buy a set for the rears.

 

[nfisheremti]

yeah, good point i did look at rubber chains, i can find them for the 7.2-16 (fronts) but not for the 11.2-24 (rears). But fronts might be all I need.