Hydro or Shuttle for the long haul?

[3gunr]

Unless you are mowing a golf course , your speed is usually determined by the ground conditions,all of my tractors could cut faster if i wanted to get thrown out of the seat and tear up my equipment.

 

[CobyRupert]

Has this been answered:
In the case where the gear tractor has (for example) a 30 hp PTO rating and the hydro has a 28 hp PTO rating, yet both have the same engine; could it be the hydro experiences the 2 hp of parasitic losses consistently, even when stationary; whereas the gear tractor’s losses don’t show up until it’s moving?
That in practice, when both tractor are moving (at say) 2 mph, they might both have 28 hp PTO available?
Probably not.

 

[TMGT]

Has this been answered:
In the case where the gear tractor has (for example) a 30 hp PTO rating and the hydro has a 28 hp PTO rating, yet both have the same engine; could it be the hydro experiences the 2 hp of parasitic losses consistently, even when stationary; whereas the gear tractor’s losses don’t show up until it’s moving?
That in practice, when both tractor are moving (at say) 2 mph, they might both have 28 hp PTO available?
Probably not.

Since the hst pressure will go up as load is increased the parasitic losses will also go up. Without testing them its hard to say if they will go up the same % and whether its linear or not.

You will see a higher loss from both transmissions so I doubt you'll see them equal out at any point.

 

[arrow]

And then 4 days later I was on the tractor again and couldn't keep it in high range to travel down a gravel road. First incline once again bogged the tractor down. Easing up off the pedal doesn't help, it just makes the tractor lose momentum and stop sooner. And then a few minutes later on a grassy hillside in medium range the tractor pulled up the hill at probably 2-3 MPH with the throttle wide open and pedal on the floor. It is becoming blatantly obvious that mowing with this tractor will be miserable unless I run a 4' mower which is pointless.

So... as much as I tried to convince myself to suck it up and live with it, I just can't do it. I just can't make payments on a brand new tractor that won't even do what I want.

Called my dealer back today and went ahead and pulled the trigger on a replacement. Exact same tractor, just add a turbo and 60% more horsepower. This one should be perfect. I hope to pick it up next week.

I think a wise decision. Imagine punishing yourself for 10-15 or 20 years being unhappy with what you have. Life's too short to shorten it more.

 

[buck12]

Unless you are mowing a golf course , your speed is usually determined by the ground conditions,all of my tractors could cut faster if i wanted to get thrown out of the seat and tear up my equipment.

That is always the case for me. The tractor cab cut much faster than my butt and back can take. Also I do not think my tractor would last long if I attempted to cut in high range. Heck in many areas I bump down to low range because the ground is so rough.

 

[the old grind]

Has this been answered:
In the case where the gear tractor has (for example) a 30 hp PTO rating and the hydro has a 28 hp PTO rating, yet both have the same engine; could it be the hydro experiences the 2 hp of parasitic losses consistently, even when stationary; whereas the gear tractor痴 losses don稚 show up until it痴 moving?
That in practice, when both tractor are moving (at say) 2 mph, they might both have 28 hp PTO available?
Probably not.

Call the losses 'parasitic' or whatever, IMO they're way over-thought. The HST model has its pump and frictional losses, so less at the PTO for one. Add to that efficiency losses of the hydraulic drive motor as well when comparing drawbar hp.

Drawbar hp is still also reduced by running a hydraulic pump for 3PH and PTO and an alternator, even in a geared tractor. There's no magic or mystery to where the power 'goes' when there really isn't 'rated' hp at the flywheel and hp-consuming things are turning when idling as well as at WOT. (OC hydraulics circulate fluid constantly, frictional losses therein are a given.)

I'm confident that the OP is making a proper step up. Better to have power and not need it, but IMO 15 min to run the mower and another 15 to get it up hills when in use is just about right.

 

[Blue Mule]

So just to update, I traded the Workmaster 25 in for the Workmaster 40 and it's AWESOME. Hydro controls and everything else are identical, but there's POWER. I can now use ALL 3 of the gear ranges! I can travel down the road in high. I can work in medium. I can pull logs in low. It's awesome!

 

[rbstern]

So just to update, I traded the Workmaster 25 in for the Workmaster 40 and it's AWESOME. Hydro controls and everything else are identical, but there's POWER. I can now use ALL 3 of the gear ranges! I can travel down the road in high. I can work in medium. I can pull logs in low. It's awesome!

Happy New Tractor Day and congrats!

 

[IH3444]

Good decision. We all have had to pay for our educations at one time or another in life with money, you just happen to get a great tractor with yours. I'm a big fan of the Kioti's, a friend has the Kioti 2610 and it has been an awesome tractor for him. Gear drive, 9 forward, 3 reverse i believe. And yes he does loader work.

 

[JethroB]

So just to update, I traded the Workmaster 25 in for the Workmaster 40 and it's AWESOME. Hydro controls and everything else are identical, but there's POWER. I can now use ALL 3 of the gear ranges! I can travel down the road in high. I can work in medium. I can pull logs in low. It's awesome!

You've had a journey and found your happy place. Thanks for sharing your story. Congrats.