That's why I like the pFerd/Stihl 2in1, it does both. Unlike my Oregon 511A with a diamond wheel: it only did the cutters.
The Pferd Chainsharp/Stihl 2in1 is a handy sharpener. I've used it a number of times. It gets good results quickly and is easy to learn to use correctly. It does a far better job than what the vast majority of experienced users get sharpening using just a bare round file. (In my life, I've met many dozens of people who
think they are doing a great job with a bare round file. I'm now up to 4 people I've met who actually
do a great job sharpening that way. Most will improve on a dull chain, but it either won't cut as well as it could, or it cuts well but that performance only lasts for a short time due to poor cutter geometry. However, that's a diatribe for another time, and one which I have posted several times already.)
There are a couple of minor drawbacks of the Pferd/Stihl system which may not mean much to a lot of users, but are the reason I have not switched to it. This mainly centers around the fact that the system uses a "non-progressive" method of setting the depth gauge. It works similar to the method shown in the video posted by BlackOps. The performance difference between that and a progressive depth gauge tool is not huge, but it's noticeable, particularly as the chain is filed further back.
One of the better free chainsaw sharpening videos I've found (and using the file guide I prefer):
That videos does a good job describing proper sharpening of the cutters. His method of setting the depth gauge by looking at the chip size is interesting, and does provide some useful guidance for what your chips should look like when your depth gauge is set correctly, but it requires trial and error to find the right setting. If I'm sharpening back at home in the shop, I don't want to have to go out and cut with it to see if I have the depth gauges set correctly, nor is my eyesight good enough to compare various depth gauges and judge whether I have done them consistently.
The BEST chainsaw sharpening video I've seen, unfortunately is not free, though the price is reasonable. You can download it for $7 or order a DVD for $10 (including shipping). It does a good job of explaining the theory behind how a chain works as well as going over hands-on techniques for getting good results. One of the things I like about it is that it also explains the advantages of using a progressive depth gauge guide for setting the depth gauge height. This type of guide yields a small but noticeable improvement in cutting performance, as the chain is sharpened back further. Using a progressive depth gauge tool also greatly reduces the need to keep all of the chain's teeth the same length, since it customizes the depth gauge exactly to its associated tooth (which the non progressive tools and the Pferd/Stihl system do not do: the "average" the depth gauge between two or more teeth. THat average only works well when the two teeth are the same.). The video is made by one of the instructors for the Game of Logging classes here in VT. (I have no connection to the company or video other than a happy customer, and receive nothing for recommending this.) You can order that video/DVD here:
The Art and Science of Sawchain Sharpening
They show a progressive depth gauge tool in use starting at about 10:34 in that video. Unfortunately, they don't explain the advantages of this style of depth gauge tool, but it is an opportunity to see how it fits differently over the depth gauge than some of the non-progressive sharpeners.
