Tractors and wood! Show your pics

[Gordon Gould]

Geo calls a 3 footer not to large and I call a 2 footer in my woods pretty darn big.

I think a discussion on cutting techniques at any level is informative and helpful to those that want to learn. As a minimum some things will become apparent; there are many techniques, one technique does not work in all cases and there are an infinite number of cases, each cutter has his favorite methods that work for him in his cutting environment.

gg

 

[Skeans1]

I was out figuring where to route a new road through some of my property that I do not get into often and noticed this Doug Fir. Since we are on the subject of leaners I took a few pics. This tree is probably 3 foot diameter, so not too large but there is some serious tension in that backside.
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That’s a great example of something that’ll rip a back strap out with that much head lean.

 

[hunt4570]

Geo calls a 3 footer not to large and I call a 2 footer in my woods pretty darn big.

I think a discussion on cutting techniques at any level is informative and helpful to those that want to learn. As a minimum some things will become apparent; there are many techniques, one technique does not work in all cases and there are an infinite number of cases, each cutter has his favorite methods that work for him in his cutting environment.

gg

I have a couple in that 2 foot range here too, and I don't even like messing with them.. I just let em grow.

 

[Skeans1]

I've not found bore cutting to be harder on my equipment or on me. I use it regularly, and the only bar tip I've trashed had to do with getting the bar pinched when I misread the tension doing storm damage clean up not when doing a It's not at all difficult to learn to do a bore cut without injury, but it is certainly worth taking the time to have someone show you how to do it right It has to do with what part of the tip you are using to start the bore. Once the pocket is created and you are in the bore, the bar is contained and kickback does not happen. Frankly, there is a greater safety concern involved with remaining at the stump while the tree is moving than there is in doing a bore cut. Certainly, a skilled operator can minimize the risks of either technique.

I know how to bore cut I do use it from time to time such as cutting blocks out in the face of oversized or in putting jack seats in. When you are starting your bore in you’re using the tip all the way through till you’re dawged in at which point the whole bar is used. Well doing this watch your bar and chain you’ll see it want to slacken up plus the kick back risks are very high not to mention your chances of chain shot are greater doing this. I sit on a stump a little longer then I should but when I do I’m using techniques that A plus the tree off the stump even when hung up and B there’s nothing around them to cause an issue such as swiping another tree. If I’m hand cutting in a first time thinning say a 30” trees I’m going to set them all up with faces and back cut with a wedge in till I have around 10 or so setup then send them all at once.

If any of these had been bore cut I wouldn’t of been able to tell what the tree was doing at the time especially well jacking.

 

[arrow]

I don't get that sense at all. Seems to me, information is being provided as a learning aid. I for one, appreciate the information, even if I have to Google some terms for clarification. More learning.

I'm just a country boy that has been heating his home with firewood for about 25 years and have always gone into the bush to cut down trees as the primary fuel source. So far I have been lucky and only had one tree barber chair and luckily it was a small vine maple. Even that small tree knocked me on my butt and provided a very memorable experience / lesson.

The comment about leaving too much holding wood was definitely a new piece of information for me. Now I understand why he kept cutting the back cut, even after the tree was clearly starting to fall. If one pays attention, there is always something new to learn. Thank you Skeans1 for that tidbit of information. It may save me from making a similar mistake in the future.

Very interesting videos.

Dropping trees is an inherently dangerous thing. I've been doing it for 56 years and can be killed tomorrow.
There are all kinds of people on a forum and this one is no exception.
"Explanation" is one kind of communication but for that person who has been at this for two or three years, I feel that type of communication is insufficient and should be accompanied by a video or live demo.
If you compound this with unfamiliar nomenclature, I think it has potential to add to the problem.
I've seen 2 men killed trying to act "manly" as it has to do with logging.
I'm just trying to be cautious because we don't always know who is picking up a chainsaw or what their learning style encompasses.

 

[dodge man]

Reading this thread makes me realize how little I know about logging. There are terms and language that I didn’t understand. I googled a couple. I still have no idea what some of the terms are. I am land surveyor that we also have out lingo that other people wouldn’t understand.

If you have seen Monty Python and the Holy Grail there is a scene where they say ”CHARGE”. Then a few seconds later instead of “retreat“ they yell “RUN AWAY, RUN AWAY“. Thats my motto when felling a tree, which is almost always 24”or smaller. I just clear a path and run away. I also realize that a tree will fall faster and farther out then I can run.

I have learned from this thread and about a month ago I dropped a tree. It fell the exact opposite way I wanted. I went out and looked at the stump. First off I missed my notch, I cut several inches too high so I lost the hinge point. I was using wedges but when the tree started to fall it stalled, if I had cut just a few more seconds it might have been different.

 

[Agvg]

Me and the communist out hunting fire wood again, not the most exiciting pics.

 

[shooterdon]

I am with Dodge Man. I enjoy reading most of this stuff and learning. I have learned i am better off not felling trees. When I have large or "problem" trees that need to be dropped I call someone to do it. I know two people who nearly died. One from a saw accident and another had a tree fall on him.

I used to harvest what loggers left behind but now I buy loggers cords of wood. Over the last few years I have purchased 32 loggers cords (102" logs) for $1950 delivered. $61/cord for oak, and maple logs ready to process. It almost does not make sense to go out and find/cut "free" wood.

 

[dodge man]

So a question for the fellers. When i notch a tree for a hinge point I often cut down towards the notch thinking that little bit of angle helps it fall the way I want. Is this flawed thinking?

 

[arrow]

So a question for the fellers. When i notch a tree for a hinge point I often cut down towards the notch thinking that little bit of angle helps it fall the way I want. Is this flawed thinking?

I'm not certain what you're trying to describe but Yes if you're talking about the back or felling cut. Cut as level as you can for the felling cut.
It's quite dangerous to do otherwise. Tree can slide and break its hinge and fall in the opposite direction intended.

If you're not talking about the back cut, then my apologies.