My solution for 3PT float on my GC1700

[Dmacleo]

think its safe to say many (most/all?) will send something to you.
maybe not a lot individually but I expect the aggregate will total up to make it worth your while.

 

[johara1]

Easy solution is a tarp strap to hold it in float...... jim

 

[hube2]

I was just watching a video and I notices something that others should be aware of and I'm pretty sure will mean that I cannot use this nifty little device. Notice the difference in slot for the PTO lever between the newer GC17**'s and the older model owned by the OP.

 

[Nacademus]

Easy solution is a tarp strap to hold it in float...... jim

I actually had that setup for a while.

It's fine and all, but swapping from neutral to lift to float over and over while tilling a lot made it pretty annoying for me. I'd have to unloop the bungee over and over. This small piece of plastic made it pretty easy for me.

 

[Nacademus]

I was just watching a video and I notices something that others should be aware of and I'm pretty sure will mean that I cannot use this nifty little device. Notice the difference in slot for the PTO lever between the newer GC17**'s and the older model owned by the OP.

If you could get a clearer shot, maybe I can figure something out for the newer GC's. I left a longer mounting tab on my detent. It can be trimmed to fit the smaller surface below the lever if needed. I'm printing them solid so it shouldn't be a problem.

 

[Nacademus]

think its safe to say many (most/all?) will send something to you.
maybe not a lot individually but I expect the aggregate will total up to make it worth your while.

I understand that and do appreciate it. If this was a more refined product and I could guarantee that it'd work perfectly for everyone, I'd feel better about taking compensation for it. It's just a pet project that I've embarked on for myself and decided to try and share it with you all. It's not particularly pretty to me and doesn't really add anything more than a little level of utility. There are probably a thousand ways to accomplish the same task, many solutions are probably easily available in your own home.

In any case, I'll include my email address with the mailings. It's also my PayPal-but I don't expect anything at all. If you don't have a printer and happen across a 3D print file (usually an STL file) and would like someone to try and print it for you, feel free to reach out. Maybe I'll take a stab at it. My friend and I really like the hobby and we bounce ideas off one another all the time.

Honestly, with this pandemic and all the BS associated with it, it feels nice to be able to help out and broadcast something positive out into the ether. It gives me something good to look forward to and I truly enjoy finding simple solutions to solve with my 3D printer.

For instance, I've created a ROPS clamp model that I made for a friend to mount his light bars and accessories. It seems to work great for him and he modified it to incorporate a rocker switch gang. It was printed in PETG so it's UV stable. If I printed those in nylon or polycarbonate, they'd be all BUT indestructible. It's a lot of fun to do.

 

[hube2]

I know exactly what you mean. I do web programming and it's not only my job but something I do when I'm not working because I just like doing it. I write web software for other developers to use and I distribute it freely to those that can use it. One reason is that I'm going to do these things anyway because I get interested in doing something and like figuring it out. Another reason is I don't really need then money, the amount I could get will not make a significant impact on my life. Also there is the need for sales tax. In my state, if I sell something tangible I have to pay sales tax. If I don't and the state finds out the penalties can be severe even if for minor sales and the paperwork you have to do makes it not worth the time unless you plan on actually selling to make your living.

 

[johara1]

I actually had that setup for a while.

It's fine and all, but swapping from neutral to lift to float over and over while tilling a lot made it pretty annoying for me. I'd have to unloop the bungee over and over. This small piece of plastic made it pretty easy for me.

Why would you go into float tilting ? For th limited need for float I would slip the hook over the leaver, bolt the other end on something and take some of the bend out of the hook end ... Plus when on hooked put it in the slot till the next time.... jim

 

[Dmacleo]

Why would you go into float tilting ? For th limited need for float I would slip the hook over the leaver, bolt the other end on something and take some of the bend out of the hook end ... Plus when on hooked put it in the slot till the next time.... jim

and somehow thats easier than a piece of plastic that goes in and works???
drill a bolt hole (or run to tractor body/frame or loader frame therby blocking right side egress....) , put something with 2 hook onto it, bend the hooks to work, attach and remove from lift lever as needed is not easier than this setup.
and you float when tilling ( I got about 40 years experience including large tractors with tillers) so when you come to an end of a row you can maintain same depth when front end rises to go onto headlands. w/o float (on larger tractors) tiller locked into position and the front rising will drive the tiller down deeper than rest of row. On smaller tractors (such as the GC series) when not in float tiller will rise up when front tires rise then when rear tires hit headlands tiller sitting HIGHER (it will only lower to the last set position) than rest of row for approx 1.5 to 2 feet (depends on distance from rear tires to tines) and also cause a depth mismatch.

 

[johara1]

and somehow thats easier than a piece of plastic that goes in and works???
drill a bolt hole (or run to tractor body/frame or loader frame therby blocking right side egress....) , put something with 2 hook onto it, bend the hooks to work, attach and remove from lift lever as needed is not easier than this setup.
and you float when tilling ( I got about 40 years experience including large tractors with tillers) so when you come to an end of a row you can maintain same depth when front end rises to go onto headlands. w/o float (on larger tractors) tiller locked into position and the front rising will drive the tiller down deeper than rest of row. On smaller tractors (such as the GC series) when not in float tiller will rise up when front tires rise then when rear tires hit headlands tiller sitting HIGHER (it will only lower to the last set position) than rest of row for approx 1.5 to 2 feet (depends on distance from rear tires to tines) and also cause a depth mismatch.

I use a 955 with a bucket with teeth turned down...... fast don't need float .... LOL.... jim