2515H or go bigger?

[Horribilis]

I've been debating the 15 and 20 series machines now for a year - I think either will serve my needs.

I currently have a ~3000 lb (including loader) John Deere 33hp machine - it is fine for most things, but its lightweight and low loader capacity often limit certain tasks. My initial inclination was to go with a beefier Branson with 30-48 hp, but I keep looking at the 2515H for its value. However, I worry about running out of HP. My main uses will be:

1) moving/spreading dirt for preparation of lawn/landscaping and grading a spot for a future shop - several lawn prep areas are sloped
2) moving and spreading gravel for driveway and landscaping (my current machine isn't great at this due to FEL capacity) - also sloped areas
3) snow clearing in the winter for sloped pavement driveways (my current machine often loses traction on the slopes even with tires filled)
4) moving large boulders for retaining walls and landscaping (my current machine can only lift the smallest of boulders due to FEL capacity)
5) skidding downed trees and/or moving with forks
6) splitting wood with either a 3 pt PTO drive screw type splitter or a 3 pt hydraulic splitter
7) moving and stacking cut wood
8) creating and maintaining bike/ATV trails, which at some point may include a brush cutter
9) augering postholes for garden fence and future shop

So those of you in the know...do these tasks sound like things the 2515H can tackle with ease or would I be wise to go with a 30/35/48hp machine?

Will the low HP bite me in the loader/snow work going up slope? In the PTO department running an auger or brush cutter? I'm not too worried about wood splitter.

And then what are the whispers I've heard about "tuning up" the 25hp to make 30-35hp? How precisely is this achieved? Injectors?

 

[ericm979]

Sounds like you need a 20 series. Boulders and gravel get heavy fast. It's not the HP that you need for most of those tasks (though a brush hog might need some power depending on the size and what you're mowing), it's tractor weight and size and loader capacity. The larger frame models have wider wheels for better stability, longer wheelbase for the same, and greater loader capacity. They also weigh ~4000 lb rather than the ~3000 lbs of the 15 series. That weight will make them more stable, especially with heavy loads in the bucket.

I don't think anyone here has "tuned up" their engines. It's theoretically possible to adjust the fuel pump some but the injectors may limit the output. You'd really want someone with a dyno and equipment to monitor EGT to do it. Otherwise you'd just be guessing if it's safe. Or change the injectors or pump or both for ones that come on a model with the same basic engine but more HP. Though that won't be cheap.

It's probably better to buy the right size tractor than to hot rod one that's too small.

 

[Branson Bob]

I would echo what Eric said. I have the 3520H and if nothing else, it is a bull for a 35 hp tractor. The base tractor weighs 4000 not including the FEL. I believe it is the heaviest 35 hp compact utility tractor by any manufacturer. I also believe it has the highest lift capacities both FEL and 3 point. You should be able to see the boulder in my profile photo. While I couldn't lift it clear of the ground I could semi-lift it and move it anywhere I wanted on my hilly property. Also I have often moved 275 gallon IBC totes with my FEL pallet forks. Those totes weigh roughly 125 pounds empty and 275 gallons of water weighs 2295 pounds meaning that my FEL lifts 2420 pounds plus the pallet forks. It will lift the tote about 6 inches off the ground. I consider that an enormous lift for a 35 hp tractor.

 

[jim9006]

I have the 3620H and it does everything you listed with ease. However... I live above 3000ft and would love to be able to use the high range going up hill. As it is now I have to down shift into 3rd range (4 range total on the 3620h) to even try. I have been compileing a list to add the factory turbo and will post up when I'm ready. Bottom line is make sure your near sea level when figuring listed HP numbers.

 

[K5lwq]

I have the 4815C. For what I do it works well. I do a lot of PTO work but not a lot of heavy lifting. It still is a very strong loader but fits my needs just fine.

That said, I agree with the other guys a 20 series would probably serve you better. I would encourage you to go a little higher on HP. My Kioti is 25 HP that has been turned up and in tall grass it struggles some running the BushHog.

I would not mess with a injector pump to get the extra HP because it will void your warranty. When I did the Kioti it was well beyond the warranty and just needed a little more to mow uphill.

No matter what you decide, do let us know how you like it and post pictures when you get it home.

 

[ericm979]

I have the 3620H and it does everything you listed with ease. However... I live above 3000ft and would love to be able to use the high range going up hill. As it is now I have to down shift into 3rd range (4 range total on the 3620h) to even try. I have been compileing a list to add the factory turbo and will post up when I'm ready. Bottom line is make sure your near sea level when figuring listed HP numbers.

I have the older 3 range trans on my 3725 and I can't use high range at all. Even with the small IND10 wheels/tires that lower gearing. It's only good for roading on level terrain, and there's only about 100' of that on my property.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

I also agree with the larger frame 20 series. The extra weight and lift capacity are going to come in handy. I wouldn't worry too much about high hp with the tasks you have listed, but you will like additional hp if you're running a brush hog or wood chipper.

 

[jeff9366]

And then what are the whispers I've heard about "tuning up" the 25hp to make 30-35hp? How precisely is this achieved? Injectors?

You have not specified your location so we do not know how warm it is near you. Nor do we know if altitude should be a consideration.

Nor can I write about Branson tractors from experience.

With other brands, factory cooling capacity increases with tractor horsepower.

HST tractors run hotter than gear tractors.

High altitudes tax engine output. You have to open the throttle further to compensate, so you will run wide open more of the time.


I currently have a ~3000 lb (including loader) John Deere 33hp machine - it is fine for most things, but its lightweight and low loader capacity limit certain tasks.

Assuming your Deere FEL weights around 800 pounds, your Deere is around 2,200 pounds bare tractor weight. (It would be less confusing if you simply specified Deere tractor model.) While an FEL does add weight and dirt in the bucket adds more, weight in front of the tractor leverages weight off the rear tires, negating some ( all? ) of the FEL weight bearing on rear tires, so tractor pulling ability barely increases.

If you upgrade to a 3,000 pound bare weight tractor you will notice some capability increase and considerable stability increase. If you upgrade to a 4,000 pound bare weight tractor you will be equipped for your lifetime. I recommend the Branson - 20 series - 3520h.

Most reasonably operated tractors under 3,000 pounds bare weight operate in residential or hobby farm applications on one to ten flat acres.

When considering a tractor purchase bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second, rear axle width third, rear wheel/tire ballast fourth.

BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR THE SECOND TIME.​

 

[Horribilis]

You will receive more useful replies to your posts if you insert your Deere tractor model into your T-B-N PROFILE in place of "none" and specify your location as well.

1992 John Deere 955 with FEL, filled rear R1 tires. Spokane, WA

 

[Horribilis]

I would echo what Eric said. I have the 3520H and if nothing else, it is a bull for a 35 hp tractor. The base tractor weighs 4000 not including the FEL. I believe it is the heaviest 35 hp compact utility tractor by any manufacturer. I also believe it has the highest lift capacities both FEL and 3 point. You should be able to see the boulder in my profile photo. While I couldn't lift it clear of the ground I could semi-lift it and move it anywhere I wanted on my hilly property. Also I have often moved 275 gallon IBC totes with my FEL pallet forks. Those totes weigh roughly 125 pounds empty and 275 gallons of water weighs 2295 pounds meaning that my FEL lifts 2420 pounds plus the pallet forks. It will lift the tote about 6 inches off the ground. I consider that an enormous lift for a 35 hp tractor.

That's a darn big boulder!

 

[Horribilis]

I have the older 3 range trans on my 3725 and I can't use high range at all. Even with the small IND10 wheels/tires that lower gearing. It's only good for roading on level terrain, and there's only about 100' of that on my property.

My property sounds similar...not much flat ground as we sit atop the end of a little finger ridge, with sloped ground in all directions (down in 3 directions and up from the house to the road in front).

 

[Horribilis]

You have not specified your location so we do not know how warm it is near you. Nor do we know if altitude should be a consideration.

Nor can I write about Branson tractors from experience.

With other brands, factory cooling capacity increases with tractor horsepower.

HST tractors run hotter than gear tractors.

High altitudes tax engine output. You have to open the throttle further to compensate, so you will run wide open more of the time.


I currently have a ~3000 lb (including loader) John Deere 33hp machine - it is fine for most things, but its lightweight and low loader capacity limit certain tasks.

Assuming your Deere FEL weights around 800 pounds, your Deere is around 2,200 pounds bare tractor weight. (It would be less confusing if you simply specified Deere tractor model.) While an FEL does add weight and dirt in the bucket adds more, weight in front of the tractor leverages weight off the rear tires, negating some ( all? ) of the FEL weight bearing on rear tires, so tractor pulling ability barely increases.

If you upgrade to a 3,000 pound bare weight tractor you will notice some capability increase and considerable stability increase. If you upgrade to a 4,000 pound bare weight tractor you will be equipped for your lifetime. I recommend the Branson - 20 series - 3520h.

Most reasonably operated tractors under 3,000 pounds bare weight operate in residential or hobby farm applications on one to ten flat acres.

When considering a tractor purchase bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second, rear axle width third, rear wheel/tire ballast fourth.

BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR THE SECOND TIME.​

Good points about FLAT ground. Most of my 13 acres are sloped.

 

[jeff9366]

1992 John Deere 955 with FEL, filled rear R1 tires. Spokane, WA

John Deere 955 - dimensions​ ​ ​ 1989 - 1998 Compact Utility tractor Series back: John Deere 855 ​ Dimensions:​ Weight: 1,990 lbs [902 kg] Wheelbase: 64 inches [162 cm] Length: 110 inches [279 cm] Width: 50.2 inches [127 cm] (min) 58.9 inches [149 cm] (max) Height (hood): 53.3 inches [135 cm] Height (ROPS): 77.1 inches [195 cm] * 83.1 inches [211 cm] * Clearance (drawbar): 10.9 inches [27 cm] Front tread: 38.6 to 47.3 inches [98 to 120 cm] Rear tread: 40.4 to 45.5 inches [102 to 115 cm] 4WD turn radius: 8.8 feet [2.7 m] 8.0 feet [2.4 m] (with brakes) Loader type: John Deere 70A Height (to pin): 77 inches [195 cm] Clearance, dumped bucket: 62.5 inches [158 cm] Dump reach: 31 inches [78 cm] Dump angle: 45 Reach at ground: 46 inches [116 cm] Rollback at ground: 22 Breakout force (lift): 1,585 lbs [718 kg] Breakout force (bucket): 1,915 lbs [868 kg] Lift to full height (at pin): 850 lbs [385 kg] Bucket width: 48 inches [121 cm] Raise time to height: 2.8 s

 

[jeff9366]

Tractors are inherently unstable operating on sloped ground. Tractor rear wheel/tire spread, sometimes adjustable, is a critical factor increasing compact tractor stability working sloped or uneven ground. A 6" to 10" increase in rear axle width substantially decreases tractor rollover potential. Tractor width is an approximation of rear axle width.

According to tractordata.com your Deere 955 rear tire spread should be adjustable from ~~50" to 59"~~.

 

[ptsg]

I have a F36Rn. This is equivalent to the 3515R in the US, although with some significant differences. The most important being the "n", which means narrow.

My tractor is setup as a Narrow tractor, which means a narrower front axle and a narrower stance on the rear by playing with the center plate on the rims, which puts right at 1.4 meters wide or 55". These Korean tractors also are setup a lot higher than the European tractors we're used to. That sure took some time to get used to it.

Anyways, I've worked a lot on some serious hills and will work more in the future and even though my tractor is setup as Narrow, it's still pretty damn stable. I've always felt very safe when working with my tractor on hills and the tractor didn't gave me that tippy feeling at all.

It weights 1400 kgs from factory, plus six 17kgs front weights and the dealer filled my rear tires. I also have a homemade hydraulic winch on the front that weights somewhere around 80kgs. This puts the overall weight of my tractor (not including loader or loader brackets) of around 4000 lbs. With loader is probably somewhere around 4800 lbs.

The wider option I had next was the 5025R, but just too big for my needs and too wide of a tractor, although I'm sure it would've been even more stable.

With all this being said, I second the others that said to go for the 20 series and something around the 35+ HP. The extra weight and width will make you feel much better and much more stable working on the hills. Also, I find the 25HP on the 2515 to be a bit short for such an heavy tractor, pretty much makes the High range useless on any kind of hills with the hydrostatic transmission.

 

[Horribilis]

Tractors are inherently unstable operating on sloped ground. Tractor rear wheel/tire spread, sometimes adjustable, is a critical factor increasing compact tractor stability working sloped or uneven ground. A 6" to 10" increase in rear axle width substantially decreases tractor rollover potential. Tractor width is an approximation of rear axle width.

According to tractordata.com your Deere 955 rear tire spread should be adjustable from ~~50" to 59"~~.

Yes...first thing I did when I got the 955 was flip the tires for the wider stance and then fill the rear tires as well ~105lbs each.

 

[ericm979]

Branson 20 series (and probably the 15 series as well) come with one of three wheel/tire packages: IND10, IND20, and IND25, in order of size. The IND25s come on the 4720 or 5520. The 20 and 25s have adjustable rear wheels, the 10s are fixed.

My 3725 normally comes with IND20s but on hearing about my property the dealer suggested using IND10s and 2" spacers. It puts the tractor an inch or two lower which is good for stability. There's less ground clearance of course but that has not been an issue for me. The dealer also had the rears filled with Rimguard. I can't say what the improvement is with the smaller wheels and Rimguard as I didn't operate it without them but I'm sure they help.

The back half of my land is really steep and wooded, so I can't operate on it except on the roads across it. But I mow part of the less steep front half, which is still in the 15-20% range. The tractor's quite stable on them, unlike my old Kubota.