CK35 Burned Out It's Clutch AGAIN?!

[fried1765]

My 2010 DK35SE clutch went from working normally to being completely in/op.
Any tractor mechanic will say that my 357 hours is nothing for a tractor made to work. I'm long retired and it has days it's used all day then periods it sits week or more then at my sawmill it sits until time to move slabs or lumber so long intervals. It is expected to do what it was intended to do.

I am seeing web sales of Kioti clutch parts and assemblies, likely from China as priced well below OE parts. One ebay seller has two clutches, one call HD. FWIW, the 9 1/2" disc clutch parts for this Kioti DK35 SE are shared by the older DK35 and several other brands, JD, NH and a few others.

Has anyone here used these cheaper Chinese/Indian? clutch alternatives?
I currently lean toward a clutch rebuilder such as KY Clutch in Brooks, KY or FT Wayne Clutch & Driveline. Thanks!

I bought a Chinesium aftermarket clutch for my Ford 1920.
My recommendation: DON'T DO IT!
My Chinesium clutch lasted 2-1/2 hours,... then a broken finger bolt.
If you want to practice your tractor splitting technique though,......go Chinesium!

 

[kantuckid]

I am very likely to take my clutch assy to KY Clutch & Driveline, Brook, KY, just S of Louisville. I can get the pressure plate machined locally but they will also do (while I wait and I walk out with the whole shebang and save enough to easily pay for the trip!) it at this rebuilder and both places are not next door anyway plus the clutch disc is highly generic part they keep on the shelf. Not Kioti specific at all, these clutche assy's have a fairly wide application of a number of brands. BTW, Chinese mfg. parts for many, many vehicles of all types. Thats not to say there not some below par items around. I currently have a Chinese clone carb on my sawmill Kohler engine thats NLA. My Kioti has a $74 starter bought on ebay, works great and the OE one is not made in the USA or by German elves. $175 for the entire assy, plus tax.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Sawyer. What great advice. Hardwood or Soft? Any particular species to use (or avoid) Roughcut or finished?

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Sawyer. What great advice. Hardwood or Soft? Any particular species to use (or avoid) Roughcut or finished?

aaaaaw, your kidding right?? Any chunk of scrap wood will work, I mean how hard is it to hold a clutch pedal down??

SR

 

[Amvcane]

The OP's CK35 has a hook to keep the clutch depressed if the right size chunk of wood can't be found.

 

[RandyT]

Umm...now I seem to recall some tractors actually come with a hook near the clutch, for holding the clutch down during long periods of non usage. Having owned only HST tractors, I always forget to mention using the hook or a block of wood.

Some of the tractors I have seen in the past also came with the block of wood from the dealer.

 

[Highgear]

When an old farmer was asked why he had such a big potbelly ? The farmer said " you always keep a roof over your favorite tool !"

 

[PILOON]

In my youth I drove many sports cars and my everyday cars were VW's.
Each and every one had clutches as does my tractor.
Tractor is at 1800 hrs and clutch is still like new, and never blocked plus lives outdoor.
And I use my FEL a whole lot, like 70% of the time.

I'd suggest it is all about driving habits or maybe who taught U how to drive.

My last clutched car was a Toyota MR2 and it had 80,000 miles on the clutch!

LOL, but in heavy city traffic automatic sure is nice.

Heck I once snapped the clutch cable on a VW and had a 30 mile drive home thru city traffic.
I did carefully plan my route to avoid traffic and lights.
I'd carefully 'feel' matching RPMs to speed and shift w/o grinding.*
LOL, intersection stops and red light were another matter.
I'd do my best to time things right but more than once I'd simply start the VW while in 1 st gear and shift my way onwards.

* once speed matches RPM's you feel a sweet spot and can make a noiseless shift .

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Some stick some don't, it's mostly related to what material the clutch material is made of.

They aren't all created equal...

SR

 

[kantuckid]

My (2010 DK35SE, Shuttle shift) clutch never did stick and it sure doesn't stick now!---> If that's my problem?<---
Please read on...
I took my tractor to a local mechanic rather than have it towed to either of the far-off dealers. Issues came up with the local people not under my control as the the local guy has fallen out with his dad who owns the building, so tractor needs moved and I must tow it again after sitting over a month there.
I've found a suitable new choice near me but they are running a month behind too. Another fairly close good independent is 2-3 months behind.
A very good question is if the problem is the clutch to begin with?
The tractor was started just prior to the no movement senario, in forward or reverse and acted weird in that it would only barely move-creeping very slowly. I tired the shuttle shift F & R & neutral then it decided to begin to move normally again and I proceeded to the woods where I'd just dropped a tree. I drove it up a steep incline in forward then began backing toward the tree down a skid trail. Only after I momentarily went forward a short ways to correct my direction did it suddenly stop moving under power. No loud noises from the tractor at all. Other than the clutch, I have zero idea what's wrong with it? Has, as I recall ~ 385 hours of great performance until it stopped moving itself under power.