New L6060 - a few questions.

[arkvet]

Just picked up my new kubota L6060 (cabbed) and had a hand full of questions. Rather than post single questions in different forums i thought it would be less messy to just list them out in one thread. Here goes.

1- hydraulic top link. I had two dual rear remotes installed so that one set could operate this. I see there are several choices for size / stroke length / etc. Anyone have a plug and play recommendation (for L6060) for the hydraulic top link. Cylinder with hoses?

2- quick hitch. I’ve always used a quick hitch with my old John Deere. The L6060 has the sliding rear arms to make hooking up a little easier... but my first impression is that it’s still not as efficient as a quick hitch. Do most still use a quick hitch? What are pros and cons of using vs not?

3- lights. I did not get the rear work lights. Read in a few places that OEM sucked and was overpriced. I do have a little a little knowledge on electronics but would like to keep it as simple as possible. I’m thinking of simply switching the bulbs for the front work lights to the brightest LED’s I can get (for now). On the rear I’d be fine with individual (left and right) LED’s or a light bar. I’m not running a backhoe or snow blower so I don’t have to have crazy amounts of light in the back. I might run a planter or bush hog at night and just need to see a little beyond the implement. Is the rear pre wired for work lights?

4- grapple - assuming 5’ wicked root grapple by EA is the way to go?

5- rear wiper - doesn’t appear I have one. I see some have them. Is it preferable / needed?

6- any other advice / recommendations / “do’s / don’t’s” from other owners of an L6060 or comparable tractor ?

 

[RjCorazza]

Just picked up...

1- I have 2 remotes and a toplink, but I had the dealer choose and install it. No idea what it is, but I really like it.

2- Never used a quick hitch, but the extendable lower links make a big difference over a standard hitch.

3- The OEM lights are poor. I replaced my front and rear lights with 54w (9") led flood / spot combos. They turn night into day. I also replaced all of the flashers and headlights with led bulbs to reduce my overall electrical load. The lights are pre wired, without the actual switch and fuse.

4- A grapple is on my wish list, but for now I get by with a set of pallet forks. I think (no experience) that a 5 or 6 foot grapple would be a good match for an L6060

5- I have a rear wiper and defroster for winter snow removal. It works fine, but doesn't cover a very large area. I could probably do without the rear wiper. What Kubota should have done is put intermittent wipers on the cab machines.

6- nothing to offer, other than the L60 series tractors are a joy to operate. The HST+ transmission is packed with features and settings that you should read up on.

Enjoy your new machine!

 

[buck12]

I have 5460 which is very similar to the 6060.

1. I could not figure out which top link to buy. I wound up ordering from Fit Rite a member on TBN. It has not come yet but from other members have said he builds a quality product.

2. I have not added a quick hitch to my tractor. I had a quick hitch on my previous tractor but with the extendable arms I really do not one.

3. The OEM stink. If you add LEDs pleas post.

4. I have a 60” MTL grapple and it served me well for under $1000. I am sure the EA grapples are better quality but I am cheap.

5. I did not opt for the rear wiper.

6. Add a skid plate. The underside of the Grand Ls are soft. And add protect the front end.

You have purchased a great tractor, enjoy.

 

[oosik]

I bought my hydraulic top link from Fit Rite. It has about the same stroke as the OEM manual top link. Maybe a tad longer stroke. It's a real joy to use. Adjustments on the fly. No stopping and twist, twist, etc. You can "tweak" a ground engagement implement until it is working perfectly and NEVER stop for a moment.

I considered a quick hitch. Too many different implements. Each one would require modification to work with the quick hitch. I find the extendable 3-point arms work just fine.

I'm retired. No need to work at night with the tractor. But I agree - OEM lights are pretty weak.

I have a big 'ol Land Pride rock & root grapple. SGC1560. Dealer installed along with the WR Long 3rd function valve. Bought and installed seven years ago. It's a permanent fixture on the FEL. I've NEVER taken the grapple off for any reason.

The M6040 comes with skid plated at critical places. I've added expanded metal to my grill guard to protect from sticks, stobs and limbs. You should consider this before installing a grapple. Your grill, radiator and battery are expensive items.

You might consider adding liquid ballast to the rear tires also. I have 1550# of Rim Guard in the rear tires on my M6040.

 

[RjCorazza]

I've had a grill guard on my radar for a few years, but I'm not much of a welder or fabricator. Unfortunately this spring I ran some brush into the grill and messed it up.
It's cosmetic and not really that bad, but it bugs me. Kubota wants around $375 for that fine mesh grill !

 

[Citydude]

I've had a grill guard on my radar for a few years, but I'm not much of a welder or fabricator. Unfortunately this spring I ran some brush into the grill and messed it up.
It's cosmetic and not really that bad, but it bugs me. Kubota wants around $375 for that fine mesh grill !

Ouch! That's pricey.

I'm far from being a fabricator or welder but managed to get this expanded metal to stick to the factory brush guard.

 

[buck12]

I've had a grill guard on my radar for a few years, but I'm not much of a welder or fabricator. Unfortunately this spring I ran some brush into the grill and messed it up.
It's cosmetic and not really that bad, but it bugs me. Kubota wants around $375 for that fine mesh grill !

That is cheaper than JD plastic. I messed up the grill and hood on my tractor before I installed mesh on my grill guard. I was able to get the hood and metal grill mesh back to 95%.

 

[oosik]

OK, I'll come clean. I took the OEM guard to a local welding shop. A young fellow there did the job. He wanted to paint the upper two halves white with blue eye balls. Bright red for the tongue. I was happy with just plain 'ol black.

 

[buck12]

OK, I'll come clean. I took the OEM guard to a local welding shop. A young fellow there did the job. He wanted to paint the upper two halves white with blue eye balls. Bright red for the tongue. I was happy with just plain 'ol black.

I had a friend to the welding on mine.

 

[3gunr]

Great looking tractor and that planter is really neat , What brand is it and what do you plant with it?

 

[Smokeydog]

I see a fabricator selling bolt on grill guards for newer tractors on OTT.

 

[workinonit]

Great looking tractor and that planter is really neat , What brand is it and what do you plant with it?

I saw that implement too. I thought it was an aerator.

 

[nybirdman]

I have a L4240 HSTC;no use for a hydraulic top link;replaced the front halogens with LED's (just found some to fit the factory bracket) Go Rigid if you want real quality.Moved the halogens to the back,purchased the factory switch,wired from the factory.Add a Green's Machine thumb+tooth-bar to the bucket.
Quick hitch,IMHO is not needed.
Also welded hooks to bucket and wire mesh to grill guard.

 

[amhicks21]

I cant speak about the top link or quick hitch but the rear wiper is an option. the first 6060 i ran had it added after purchase for snow plowing. The wiring is already all there for rear work lights so its very easy to add any lights you'd like. I went with pods facing out on the flasher light brackets and 2 7 inch mini light bars facing back. you'll just need to pull the cover off the right pillar and add a switch next to the one for the front lights. I also replaced the front work lights with 6" pods.

 

[arkvet]

Sorry I missed a couple later posts. The implement I am carrying is a Tar River no-till drill. Absolutely love it. I plant lots of food plots for deer hunting and it’s my main food plot tool.
I ended up finding a hydraulic top link with hoses on Amazon.

Category 2 Hydraulic Top Link 21 5/8" - 32 11/16" Amazon.com: Category 2 Hydraulic Top Link 21 5/8" - 32 11/16" : Industrial & Scientific

not currently available. It was easy to install and I absolutely LOVE the ability to make micro adjustments to the top link right from the cab.

I’ve ordered the 60” wicked root grapple for just N of $3k. Ouch. Hope it’s as good as everyone says. Buy once / cry once.

With the super short winter days it’s reminding me I need to work on the LED light upgrade.
I don’t want to over complicate things. I plan to simply get a pair of LED’s for both front and back. No changes other than the lights up front. On the back... I popped the empty switch cover (next to the front work light switch) and felt around inside and didn’t feel any wires. Maybe I need longer fingers?

Where could I find instructions / wiring diagrams for projects like this? Do I need the service manual?

 

[jeff9366]

Just picked up my new kubota L6060 (cabbed) and had a hand full of questions.

2) quick hitch. I’ve always used a quick hitch with my old John Deere. The L6060 has the sliding rear arms to make hooking up a little easier... but my first impression is that it’s still not as efficient as a quick hitch. Do most still use a quick hitch? What are pros and cons of using vs not?

"I considered a quick hitch. Too many different implements. Each one would require modification to work with the quick hitch. I find the extendable 3-point arms work just fine."

Extend the telescoping Lower Links before backing up to an implement.

If you approach implement with LL's short you inevitably stop tractor a fraction short of the distance LLs will extend.

Advantage: You can judiciously PUSH dirt with your Box Blade.

 

[oosik]

I like the way you modified your brush guard - citydude. Mine had to have a hinge/joint in the middle. Pull the pins - tip the top of the guard forward - now you can open the hood.

 

[LD1]

Sorry I missed a couple later posts. The implement I am carrying is a Tar River no-till drill. Absolutely love it. I plant lots of food plots for deer hunting and it’s my main food plot tool.
I ended up finding a hydraulic top link with hoses on Amazon.

Category 2 Hydraulic Top Link 21 5/8" - 32 11/16" Amazon.com: Category 2 Hydraulic Top Link 21 5/8" - 32 11/16" : Industrial & Scientific

not currently available. It was easy to install and I absolutely LOVE the ability to make micro adjustments to the top link right from the cab.

I’ve ordered the 60” wicked root grapple for just N of $3k. Ouch. Hope it’s as good as everyone says. Buy once / cry once.

With the super short winter days it’s reminding me I need to work on the LED light upgrade.
I don’t want to over complicate things. I plan to simply get a pair of LED’s for both front and back. No changes other than the lights up front. On the back... I popped the empty switch cover (next to the front work light switch) and felt around inside and didn’t feel any wires. Maybe I need longer fingers?

Where could I find instructions / wiring diagrams for projects like this? Do I need the service manual?

I would be careful with that toplink.

Couldnt find the specs of it....but it says 6700# push and 4300# retract make me think its only a 2" cylinder. I think thats a bit on the small side for your tractor if you get some heavy ground engaging implements.

Regarding the quick hitch....I have one and it really is worth it as long as your implements are quick hitch compatible. I can go from bushhog to blade in a matter of minutes and only have to get off the seat for the PTO shaft on the hog or the jack on the blade.

 

[arkvet]

I would be careful with that toplink.

Couldnt find the specs of it....but it says 6700# push and 4300# retract make me think its only a 2" cylinder. I think thats a bit on the small side for your tractor if you get some heavy ground engaging implements.

Regarding the quick hitch....I have one and it really is worth it as long as your implements are quick hitch compatible. I can go from bushhog to blade in a matter of minutes and only have to get off the seat for the PTO shaft on the hog or the jack on the blade.

I think I’ve used it with all my implements by now and have had zero issue. Not sure which specific implements would cause it trouble.

given those specs what “danger” does this represent? Leak down ? Blowing a seal?

 

[LD1]

The danger is over pressurization.

If you over pressurize, the weak link gives. Could blow a cylinder, could bend a cylinder rod, could blow a hose and you take a bath in oil, etc. You never know what the weak link is gonna be.

But visualize this.....You are pulling a blade full of dirt back there. The draft load of the blade is trying to make the blade rotate about the lower pins and "compress" the toplink. That pressurizes the oil. The centerline of the lower links to the centerline of the toplink pin is 24" on cat 2. The distance from them lower pins to the cutting edge of a blade can easily be 4'.....so whatever force against the cutting edge, can easily be double at the toplink trying to compress it. Larger diameter cylinders spread that force over more surface area (of the piston) and thus the pressure in the closed system is less.

Not sure what implements you have that are high draft implements....so it may never be a problem.

My MX is similar in size/weight to yours. I think "most" people go for the 2.5" bore cylinder. I went 3" on mine.

Not trying to tell you to change, or that it wont work....cause clearly it works for you. Just giving a word of caution of you are pulling some hefty ground engaging stuff. Lifting something heavy from a boom pole would be another place to use caution