New L6060 - a few questions.

[Smokeydog]

I see a fabricator selling bolt on grill guards for newer tractors on OTT.

 

[workinonit]

Great looking tractor and that planter is really neat , What brand is it and what do you plant with it?

I saw that implement too. I thought it was an aerator.

 

[nybirdman]

I have a L4240 HSTC;no use for a hydraulic top link;replaced the front halogens with LED's (just found some to fit the factory bracket) Go Rigid if you want real quality.Moved the halogens to the back,purchased the factory switch,wired from the factory.Add a Green's Machine thumb+tooth-bar to the bucket.
Quick hitch,IMHO is not needed.
Also welded hooks to bucket and wire mesh to grill guard.

 

[amhicks21]

I cant speak about the top link or quick hitch but the rear wiper is an option. the first 6060 i ran had it added after purchase for snow plowing. The wiring is already all there for rear work lights so its very easy to add any lights you'd like. I went with pods facing out on the flasher light brackets and 2 7 inch mini light bars facing back. you'll just need to pull the cover off the right pillar and add a switch next to the one for the front lights. I also replaced the front work lights with 6" pods.

 

[arkvet]

Sorry I missed a couple later posts. The implement I am carrying is a Tar River no-till drill. Absolutely love it. I plant lots of food plots for deer hunting and it’s my main food plot tool.
I ended up finding a hydraulic top link with hoses on Amazon.

Category 2 Hydraulic Top Link 21 5/8" - 32 11/16" Amazon.com: Category 2 Hydraulic Top Link 21 5/8" - 32 11/16" : Industrial & Scientific

not currently available. It was easy to install and I absolutely LOVE the ability to make micro adjustments to the top link right from the cab.

I’ve ordered the 60” wicked root grapple for just N of $3k. Ouch. Hope it’s as good as everyone says. Buy once / cry once.

With the super short winter days it’s reminding me I need to work on the LED light upgrade.
I don’t want to over complicate things. I plan to simply get a pair of LED’s for both front and back. No changes other than the lights up front. On the back... I popped the empty switch cover (next to the front work light switch) and felt around inside and didn’t feel any wires. Maybe I need longer fingers?

Where could I find instructions / wiring diagrams for projects like this? Do I need the service manual?

 

[jeff9366]

Just picked up my new kubota L6060 (cabbed) and had a hand full of questions.

2) quick hitch. I’ve always used a quick hitch with my old John Deere. The L6060 has the sliding rear arms to make hooking up a little easier... but my first impression is that it’s still not as efficient as a quick hitch. Do most still use a quick hitch? What are pros and cons of using vs not?

"I considered a quick hitch. Too many different implements. Each one would require modification to work with the quick hitch. I find the extendable 3-point arms work just fine."

Extend the telescoping Lower Links before backing up to an implement.

If you approach implement with LL's short you inevitably stop tractor a fraction short of the distance LLs will extend.

Advantage: You can judiciously PUSH dirt with your Box Blade.

 

[oosik]

I like the way you modified your brush guard - citydude. Mine had to have a hinge/joint in the middle. Pull the pins - tip the top of the guard forward - now you can open the hood.

 

[LD1]

Sorry I missed a couple later posts. The implement I am carrying is a Tar River no-till drill. Absolutely love it. I plant lots of food plots for deer hunting and it’s my main food plot tool.
I ended up finding a hydraulic top link with hoses on Amazon.

Category 2 Hydraulic Top Link 21 5/8" - 32 11/16" Amazon.com: Category 2 Hydraulic Top Link 21 5/8" - 32 11/16" : Industrial & Scientific

not currently available. It was easy to install and I absolutely LOVE the ability to make micro adjustments to the top link right from the cab.

I’ve ordered the 60” wicked root grapple for just N of $3k. Ouch. Hope it’s as good as everyone says. Buy once / cry once.

With the super short winter days it’s reminding me I need to work on the LED light upgrade.
I don’t want to over complicate things. I plan to simply get a pair of LED’s for both front and back. No changes other than the lights up front. On the back... I popped the empty switch cover (next to the front work light switch) and felt around inside and didn’t feel any wires. Maybe I need longer fingers?

Where could I find instructions / wiring diagrams for projects like this? Do I need the service manual?

I would be careful with that toplink.

Couldnt find the specs of it....but it says 6700# push and 4300# retract make me think its only a 2" cylinder. I think thats a bit on the small side for your tractor if you get some heavy ground engaging implements.

Regarding the quick hitch....I have one and it really is worth it as long as your implements are quick hitch compatible. I can go from bushhog to blade in a matter of minutes and only have to get off the seat for the PTO shaft on the hog or the jack on the blade.

 

[arkvet]

I would be careful with that toplink.

Couldnt find the specs of it....but it says 6700# push and 4300# retract make me think its only a 2" cylinder. I think thats a bit on the small side for your tractor if you get some heavy ground engaging implements.

Regarding the quick hitch....I have one and it really is worth it as long as your implements are quick hitch compatible. I can go from bushhog to blade in a matter of minutes and only have to get off the seat for the PTO shaft on the hog or the jack on the blade.

I think I’ve used it with all my implements by now and have had zero issue. Not sure which specific implements would cause it trouble.

given those specs what “danger” does this represent? Leak down ? Blowing a seal?

 

[LD1]

The danger is over pressurization.

If you over pressurize, the weak link gives. Could blow a cylinder, could bend a cylinder rod, could blow a hose and you take a bath in oil, etc. You never know what the weak link is gonna be.

But visualize this.....You are pulling a blade full of dirt back there. The draft load of the blade is trying to make the blade rotate about the lower pins and "compress" the toplink. That pressurizes the oil. The centerline of the lower links to the centerline of the toplink pin is 24" on cat 2. The distance from them lower pins to the cutting edge of a blade can easily be 4'.....so whatever force against the cutting edge, can easily be double at the toplink trying to compress it. Larger diameter cylinders spread that force over more surface area (of the piston) and thus the pressure in the closed system is less.

Not sure what implements you have that are high draft implements....so it may never be a problem.

My MX is similar in size/weight to yours. I think "most" people go for the 2.5" bore cylinder. I went 3" on mine.

Not trying to tell you to change, or that it wont work....cause clearly it works for you. Just giving a word of caution of you are pulling some hefty ground engaging stuff. Lifting something heavy from a boom pole would be another place to use caution