Electrical / romex mess

[CoyPatton]

Probably best to call your local electrical contractor, that wire does not even look like direct bury Romex.

It is not UF wire! Ut is therefore not rated for ground contact nor UV exposure. Thus it needs to be replaced. Aside from NEC violations, it is a major major major safety issue.
Since, you have several issues involved—2 wires, needs to be longer and below grade junctions are another major major major safety issue, and unsafe wire was used, you need to replace it from at least an above ground level outdoor junction box to the location where you want the electrical access with UF wire in the gauge size to match the breaker it is on in the electrical panel.

 

[plowhog]

It is not UF wire! ... needs to be longer ... below grade junctions

There have been many posts so it would be understandable if maybe you missed a few.

There will be no below grade junctions. The wire is currently in the center of an 18' diameter circle. If I dig back to the edge of the circle, I will have at least 10+ feet of exposed wire. Since it's buried only 2 feet, I'll have plenty of wire to bring it up into a box with no splicing.

I examined the wire and did not find any markings. It does look *exactly* like the UF wire picture that was posted earlier.

 

[CoyPatton]

Both wires feed into the hole from the same direction.

If expose more wire, I will eventually get to the edge of the circle. I could put a concrete electrical box there, and turn the wire upward into it. No splice. Not ideal, but simply using what was original-- and with no splice. Maybe slip a conduit over the part that turns upward before backfill?

One other oddity. Why two wires? Since there was a light out there, I knew of one wire, and it is switched from the house. As far as I know, it is the only remaining wire after I demolished and rewired the entire house two years ago. Why there is a second wire in the hole is a mystery.

I'm going to clean the jacket on the romex and learn what it is.

My best guess with the limited information available is that whoever put that in ran 1 ‘romex’ as a hot power from the breaker then a second ‘romex’ run from a switch yo control the light. A few years ago this was an acceptable practice even by NEC. There were potential problems with this and as such most electricians did not like this. One biggie was that on the switch runs, the white (neutral wire) became a hot wire when the switch circuit was completed. By NEC both ends of the white and any junctions that allowed access to that white wire were to be marked with tape of an known hot wire color (typically black, most common, or red next most common). The reality was this marking seldom happened. Later some would tie into that white wire believing it to be a neutral and put power to often the neutral wire in that entire electrical panel.

 

[CoyPatton]

If the ground is wrapped, it’s probably uf direct burial wire. But who’s to say for sure. Traditionally UF cable has very heavy insulation that’s hard to cut. But I have seen some out there with thinner outside insulation but still listed uf cable.

If the ground is also wrapped it probably is UF wire. With a bit of wiping the exterior sheathing you should be able to find a UF marking on the sheathing. Your photo of exterior sheathing removed looked dis not look like UF. Check carefully if not marked UF, I would replace to a point it is above ground level.
you are by NEC allowed to run ‘romex’ in conduit for short runs (10 ft or less) this includes UF for the purposes of a junction box above ground level to under ground. Heat which is a major enemy of electricity is why you do not want it double shielded.

 

[plowhog]

One biggie was that on the switch runs, the white (neutral wire) became a hot wire when the switch circuit was completed.

I tested both UF cables yesterday. One is always hot and one is switched. I only tested each UF cable independently between blk, wht, and ground. No testing from to the other.

Do I understand your post correctly... the always-hot UF cable should normally have voltage only on the black lead and not the white, but if I turn on the switch, (heating up the other UF cable) the neutral/white wire on the "always hot" UF cable would then show voltage? And it would feed that voltage on the neutral/white wire back to the panel?

 

[CoyPatton]

There have been many posts so it would be understandable if maybe you missed a few.

There will be no below grade junctions. The wire is currently in the center of an 18' diameter circle. If I dig back to the edge of the circle, I will have at least 10+ feet of exposed wire. Since it's buried only 2 feet, I'll have plenty of wire to bring it up into a box with no splicing.

I examined the wire and did not find any markings. It does look *exactly* like the UF wire picture that was posted earlier.

If it is not marked UF, any inspector (including a fire or insurance inspector) will put in their findings it is non UF wire. You would like then have issues collecting on your homeowners insurance for any claim. One of the problems is it could run and overload to the electrical panel and involve the entire home.
Replace to an above ground junction box or to panel and switch box with UF rated wire.

 

[fishdrivel]

More info: I believe it is UF romex-- there is no paper and it looks just like the pictured one. I can excavate the exposed wire back to the inner wall, then turn it up into a (new) box with no splicing.

Both romex wires are connected to the same breaker. One is switched (the former light circuit) and one is always hot. Both are connected to the same breaker-- a 15amp Square D arc fault breaker.

If they are both connected to the same breaker, why does that breaker not cut off power to 2nd??????

2 circuits connected to the same breaker is not to code, not safe, and leads me to believe it was a DIY'er

 

[aczlan]

The guy shaved down the wires so he could squeeze them into the terminal on the beaker.

I was going to say, most breakers are okay with having two wires in them, shaving the wire down so it will fit in the breaker is a No-No though. Better to use a pigtail if your wire is too big to fit into the breaker.

I tested both UF cables yesterday. One is always hot and one is switched. I only tested each UF cable independently between blk, wht, and ground. No testing from to the other.

Do I understand your post correctly... the always-hot UF cable should normally have voltage only on the black lead and not the white, but if I turn on the switch, (heating up the other UF cable) the neutral/white wire on the "always hot" UF cable would then show voltage? And it would feed that voltage on the neutral/white wire back to the panel?

It depends on how it is set up, if the wire out of the panel goes into the switch in the house and then the switched and unswitched wires both go from there to the outside, white should be neutral on both and black should be hot on both.

There should be zero volts ac (or close to it) from either white to ground and 110-130 volts ac from black to ground or white.

Aaron Z

 

[fishdrivel]

ok, before I get lit up (see what I did there) I have used these. Direct Burial UF Cable Splice Kit with Heat Shrink, 14/3 in. to 8/3 i. Wire Range-SKDB - The Home Depot Any Electricians here want to chime in, please do.

I have used many of these splice kits. They are designed specifically for UF Romex. They are excellent when installed properly.

 

[plowhog]

If they are both connected to the same breaker, why does that breaker not cut off power to 2nd??????

I never saw anyone post anything that said this. Certainly not me.