Twine bunching up on my knotters

[PROFarms]

Hi all. Am running an old New Holland 68 Super Hayliner. Last year when I got it, it was only tying on one side so I sharpened the knives and seems to have solved the problem and it’s tying fine now. Before starting this year I re sharpened the knives. Only thing I’ve noticed is this year I’ve done a few hundred bales so far and it’s still tying ok but the short lengths of twine seem to be bunching up around the knotter on one side, which hopefully can be seen on picture. Wondered if anyone had any advice how to stop this happening. Any advice much appreciated!

 

[Sonny580]

Had and used a NH66 (older than yours) and it did bunch up a few at times, but ran fairly clean for the most part. If everything is right, the short cutoff's should be laying on top of the bale around the finished knott area.
Have someone walk along the baler and watch when it ties and get an idea what is happening.
Kinda looks like the twine knife may not be quite adjusted right.
Also check your twine holders for action, are they loose/worn/have the right shape to them? The holders can get grooves worn in them too.
check under the holder casting to see if there is a burr on it, that will also cause problems. Completely clean the area and the shaft to start with and watch the first few bales! I think you can narrow down the cause. These were picky balers but in their time were top of the line.

 

[Unclewillie]

Hi all. Am running an old New Holland 68 Super Hayliner. Last year when I got it, it was only tying on one side so I sharpened the knives and seems to have solved the problem and it’s tying fine now. Before starting this year I re sharpened the knives. Only thing I’ve noticed is this year I’ve done a few hundred bales so far and it’s still tying ok but the short lengths of twine seem to be bunching up around the knotter on one side, which hopefully can be seen on picture. Wondered if anyone had any advice how to stop this happening. Any advice much appreciated!View attachment 699911

might try a dab of leather boot wax on the eye, sounds like it just needs a good buffing.

 

[Norm W]

Make sure the billhook is smooth. A bit of rust can make it erratic by wearing on the twine.

 

[Hay Dude]

Is everything greased and moving freely as it should?

 

[PROFarms]

Is everything greased and moving freely as it should?

Yeah all moving freely and greased

 

[RickB]

Twine knives need to be razor sharp. An option is to buy knife kits which come with new hardware and replace the knives to bring a factory edge to the party. You grind the old rivets off the knife arms and bolt the new knives on. Make sure the knife arms sweep the billhooks with the proper tension and the distance between the billhook and arm is closer to 3/8" than 1/2" at the end of the knife arm travel. Info is in the op manual.

 

[denchen]

I`ve no idea, but the twine has a twist, so what about taking the twine off and feed the lead out of the opposite end of the ball of twine. One way the twine will slightly twist tighter, whilst coming out the other end it will come out with less twist.

 

[RickB]

I`ve no idea, but the twine has a twist, so what about taking the twine off and feed the lead out of the opposite end of the ball of twine. One way the twine will slightly twist tighter, whilst coming out the other end it will come out with less twist.

Absolutely the worst square baler advise I have ever read.

 

[hosspuller]

Well ... For one issue, both the knotters are bolted tight. They're supposed to be pinned with a loose pin (Rivet) and R clip to allow them to float. Might be the reason the left worm drive is worn by the knotter cam gear.

As for the twine build up. Check the twine disk timing. You will need a manual since all of the knotter timing is inter-related.

When were the knotters last greased ? Some of the points look dry to me.

 

[5030]

Round bailers are so much easier....

 

[Tx Jim]

Well ... For one issue, both the knotters are bolted tight. They're supposed to be pinned with a loose pin (Rivet) and R clip to allow them to float. Might be the reason the left worm drive is worn by the knotter cam gear.

My experience with NH small sq balers is very limited but I sure thought knotters were designed to be bolted securely to baler frame not pinned loose. I know JD knotters are bolted tight to frame

 

[RickB]

My experience with NH small sq balers is very limited but I sure thought knotters were designed to be bolted securely to baler frame not pinned loose. I know JD knotters are bolted tight to frame

NH knotter frames of that vintage were bolted securely, and some obviously still are. Somewhere along in the early 1960's the change was made to pins and clips to allow the frames to float a little. Bolted or pinned is not a factor in the OP's complaint. Twine knives are my #1 suspicion.

 

[5030]

Some are tight, some float. The 575 I just sold, floated.

 

[Unclewillie]

Absolutely the worst square baler advise I have ever read.

dude may have a point in some cases, I recall my uncle flipping the roll of twine because of a twisting issue. It's like spooling fishing line on a top spin reel if you spool the line from the wrong side it will kink and not cast but put it on proper you can cast a country mile. What's sounds silly may actually be something that should be tried.

 

[Quickster2]

Not trying to be critical but to me the whole area in the picture needs a good cleaning and lube. Cleaning is inspection is an old adage worth doing.

 

[5030]

Not trying to be critical but to me the whole area in the picture needs a good cleaning and lube. Cleaning is inspection is an old adage worth doing.

I was keeping my yap shut but... Sure looks to me like a grease gun is in order. The knotter axles are dry as are the gear axles and it sure looks like it's been a while with no grease. I greased mine with every use, that one don't look like it at all.

 

[hosspuller]

Bolted tight or not... the left worm drive is worn by the knotter cam gear. Something is not correct..