Cat 1/2 Hook-Up Hard

[CH4Ohio]

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Thanks for the link! I'll check it out.

Agree that I'd like to be able to fix broken hitches and similar structural repairs. I've got a pile of scrap metal that was headed to the scrap yard including some pretty heavy stuff. I should start practicing on that stuff. Thx.

 

[JTP]

I learned an easy method of hooking up heavier implements years ago by accident that works very well. I was unhooking a heavy 8ft disc on muddy ground so i placed 4 old tires under it to prevent it from sinking in the ground.
When i went to hook it up the next time it was the easiest it had ever been. The tires acted like springs and allowed the disc to be moved in all directions to get the links on the pins with little effort and no resetting of the tractor.
It also solved the problem of what to do with all my old tires. I now use tires for all my implements.

 

[workinonit]

I'm not grasping the issues being had with hooking up implements if the tractor has extendable arms. Even if things aren't level. I back up to something leaving maybe 2" to 4" gap away from the pins. Get the height adjusted so that you have equidistance vertically with the two arms. Extend the links, pin them or slide them on and back into the locks. If it's unlevel you may need to raise and lower a couple of times but they will pop in. Then hook up the center link and the PTO if so needed. It's not a quick hitch but I've been doing it for lots of years with no issues.

 

[CoyPatton]

That's what I was afraid of... that is, the solution is a quick hitch.
I am uncertain if I get one, how / if it will effect the shafts on my seeder or post hole digger ? Maybe would be okay ?
Does anyone have a recommendation for a quick hitch ? The bottom pins on my tractor are Cat2, but all my implements are Cat 1.

Most QH (all 3 points) are not compatible with post hole diggers (PHD) as most PHD’s hook directly to the tractor top link mount.
Any PTO shaft that has been cut to length (shortened) can be an issue with any QH as they all add around 4” to the distance between the tractor PTO connection and the implement PTO connection. As a footnote there are PTO extenders available which may be able to provide the fill of the gap as could an overrun clutch if it is not already built into your PTO.
Also if your implements are not WH compatible, expect to modify each to fit. This is common with older implements (some of is believe these are built heavier and will out last the newer implements). When looking at QH’s consider Pat’s quick change system. It is not for everyone, but it dies meet the needs of some of us.
as for your Cat 2 tractor and Cat 1 implements, unless your tractor has dual size balls in your lower lift arms, you are using bushings, you will need to continue using bushings or start using bushings with a QH.

 

[Bentrim]

Check the sway blocks they may be holes to bolt them "sideways" to what they are now. That would make them narrower and be easier to hook up implement. If I remember right the 4010 ( the old big one) had blocks the could be bolted on the side to narrow them or could be removed and or bolted on different so they only worked when the hitch was fully raised. The 520 had the elephant ears and only worked when the hitch was raised. No issue hooking up implements. That said sway blocks were available as an option and used spacers of different length for cat 1 or 2.

 

[workinonit]

Yea those sway blocks had a scalloped side that allowed more sway as the hitch was lowered. You could flip them to the square side and it would stop the sway all the way through the lift.

 

[Spike56]

Check the sway blocks they may be holes to bolt them "sideways" to what they are now. That would make them narrower and be easier to hook up implement. If I remember right the 4010 ( the old big one) had blocks the could be bolted on the side to narrow them or could be removed and or bolted on different so they only worked when the hitch was fully raised. The 520 had the elephant ears and only worked when the hitch was raised. No issue hooking up implements. That said sway blocks were available as an option and used spacers of different length for cat 1 or 2.

Yes, I checked the sway blocks. They are set for Cat 1. You can flip them and re-bolt for Cat2. Should be easy except the mud dobbers build nests in the holes which you have to clean out to get the bolts in.

 

[Spike56]

Most QH (all 3 points) are not compatible with post hole diggers (PHD) as most PHD’s hook directly to the tractor top link mount.
Any PTO shaft that has been cut to length (shortened) can be an issue with any QH as they all add around 4” to the distance between the tractor PTO connection and the implement PTO connection. As a footnote there are PTO extenders available which may be able to provide the fill of the gap as could an overrun clutch if it is not already built into your PTO.
Also if your implements are not WH compatible, expect to modify each to fit. This is common with older implements (some of is believe these are built heavier and will out last the newer implements). When looking at QH’s consider Pat’s quick change system. It is not for everyone, but it dies meet the needs of some of us.
as for your Cat 2 tractor and Cat 1 implements, unless your tractor has dual size balls in your lower lift arms, you are using bushings, you will need to continue using bushings or start using bushings with a QH.

I did try Pat's. Did not work for me. I had to use all the spacer blocks and the ends of my lower 3-point are angled. I got them on, but they just did not work very well for me. A good concept but..... gave them to a friend.

 

[timbrr]

So, again, just looking for suggestions I can afford or something I am overlooking since I am NOT extremely familiar with tractors.

I'm not sure whether this will work/help for you and your tractor in the place(s) you do your hitching, but...

I hook up my 3-point implements on flat ground, so once I've got the lower arms unpinned and spread, I line the tractor up as best I can and then back it up so I'm just short of where I need to be -- so I know I'll be using the telescoping feature on both sides. That really helps. Being too close undermines the usefulness of the telescoping feature.

I then slip the tractor into Neutral.

When I'm back there hooking up the implement, sometimes I need to move the tractor forwards or backwards just a little bit to help things slip on easily. With the tractor in Neutral, I can just grab the nearest rear wheel by the nubs and manually turn it a bit to move the tractor. That allows me to micro-adjust the position of the tractor without having to climb up onto the seat, and -- in my situation at least -- makes hooking up implements trivial.

If rotating a rear wheel by hand is not feasible for you, then I'm pretty sure wedging one end of a 2x4 under a wheel and levering it would work just as well to get those small movements that make the job a whole lot easier.

Good luck!