Cat 1/2 Hook-Up Hard

[CH4Ohio]

I sold a nice young guy a like new Frontier SB1164 snowblower about 1.5 years ago now. He was getting a new JD 3038 tractor and this snowblower should have been a really good match. Heck, it was even the same color. He let me know a few weeks later that it wouldn't fit his tractor and he had to buy a quick hitch in order to make it work. The fact is that he simply didn't understand how to adjust things in order to hook it up so he wasted money on a quick hitch that he'll probably only use for this one piece of equipment. He took offense when I suggested that he needed to get to know his equipment better, but I was trying to be helpful. . . .

 

[workinonit]

Say what you will about a quick hitch. I hooked up implements for the last 40 years plus without one and I would never be without one again. It was a pain getting everything I had standardized but once I did well worth it.

 

[CH4Ohio]

Say what you will about a quick hitch. I hooked up implements for the last 40 years plus without one and I would never be without one again. It was a pain getting everything I had standardized but once I did well worth it.

I'm not suggesting that it's not convenient and easier. I understand the convenience and it would be great if I could just back up to everything that I own and pick it up and drive away. I'm impressed that you were able to get all your equipment dialed in so it works with everything.

I was simply commenting to the original post that we should be able to hook up anything to anything, within reason, if we understand how to adjust all the linkages and tweak things on the implement end as needed. It's not rocket surgery . . .

 

[workinonit]

I agree. Except for my Massey 283 all of my tractors have had extendable draft links. I remember when I got my first tractor with those. It was a game changer. For me the quick hitch is very similar. Modifying all of my implements was a pain. I will admit that. Lots of fab and welding. I think the only thing that I had that was compatable was my JD 609 bush hog. And then I'm in the process of finishing up my homemade landplane which is going to be really nice. Just bought a Maschio Tigre 300 flail that won't fit the QH so now I have more work to do.

 

[Spike56]

Yeah, I'm thinking we need to see some photos. They just aren't that hard to hook up. With telescoping arms I don't see much advantage to the quick hitches except it's another clever gizmo to admire. As for function, std 3pt hitches seem easy enough.
Maybe it isn't set up right.

I am (trying) to post a couple of pictures of my 3-point. I am "always" able to get things hooked up. Just the old man (me) is wondering if this could be made easier.
I did buy a Quick Connect for me front end loader. It helped tremendously with changing out my bucket with a hay spear. Previous to getting the quick connect, it would take a long time and much effort to re-connect the bucket. By the time I climbed in and out of the cab 100 times to line things up I was too tired to do anything else.

So, again, just looking for suggestions I can afford or something I am overlooking since I am NOT extremely familiar with tractors.

 

[Cycledude]

I recently installed the "european syle" hooks and balls on my tractor. AMAZING QH. Does not add any length to the implements (no need to buy new PTO shafts), not possible to come loose (like the Pats), parts are widely available, but more importantly, they hook and unhook from the implements with ease!

Check out my install video:

seems like the outfit selling those things should finish the project at the factory so you could buy the finished product and just remove the stock arms and install the new arms with no welding required. If they were extendable like the stock arms that would really make hooking up so much easier !

 

[CH4Ohio]

I am (trying) to post a couple of pictures of my 3-point. I am "always" able to get things hooked up. Just the old man (me) is wondering if this could be made easier.
I did buy a Quick Connect for me front end loader. It helped tremendously with changing out my bucket with a hay spear. Previous to getting the quick connect, it would take a long time and much effort to re-connect the bucket. By the time I climbed in and out of the cab 100 times to line things up I was too tired to do anything else.

So, again, just looking for suggestions I can afford or something I am overlooking since I am NOT extremely familiar with tractors.

For some reason, I thought you were having difficulty with a smaller JD tractor. I don't know the model numbers very well and should have looked it up. I have a JD about that same size, physically. Unlike the Kubotas, my JD doesn't have extendable arms either, and it has the turnbuckle sway links that are awkward and slow to adjust. Even the top link stowage is awkward. I agree that it's a pain! Fortunately, I rarely hook anything to the 3-point on that tractor unless I'm using a heavy 120 gallon sprayer.

Thanks for the pictures!

 

[CH4Ohio]

I agree. Except for my Massey 283 all of my tractors have had extendable draft links. I remember when I got my first tractor with those. It was a game changer. For me the quick hitch is very similar. Modifying all of my implements was a pain. I will admit that. Lots of fab and welding. I think the only thing that I had that was compatable was my JD 609 bush hog. And then I'm in the process of finishing up my homemade landplane which is going to be really nice. Just bought a Maschio Tigre 300 flail that won't fit the QH so now I have more work to do.

Have to admit that this just isn't an option for me since I'm a lousy welder. That's one thing that I was never really exposed to and didn't get a chance to learn. I grew up with farmers and carpenters, but don't recall anyone welding anything. I'm also not at all proud of the few welding repairs that I've attempted lately with the MIG welder that I picked up, but still learning.

 

[oosik]

It will normally take me 15 to 20 minuets to drop my rear blade and hook up something else. My problem is - while all my implements sit on their own pallets - each one is at a slightly different elevation and angle. The approach to each implement is slightly different also.

If everything - tractor included - were on a hard, level surface it would sure be easier.

But it isn't and it's never going to be that way. So - it's extendable 3-point arms, huge pry bars, alignment dibbles and a lot of patience.

 

[WranglerX]

Have to admit that this just isn't an option for me since I'm a lousy welder. That's one thing that I was never really exposed to and didn't get a chance to learn. I grew up with farmers and carpenters, but don't recall anyone welding anything. I'm also not at all proud of the few welding repairs that I've attempted lately with the MIG welder that I picked up, but still learning.

Spends some time perfecting you welding skills.... It will save hundred of hours of frustration and the money you have to pay out to accomplish things your improved welding skills can provide... There is three words that will help your skills, Practice...Practice...Practice...

Welding Tips and Tricks - TIG, MIG, Stick and a pantload of other info

Down and Dirty Welding tips and tricks , No PhD's allowed

weldingtipsandtricks.com

 

[CH4Ohio]

Spends some time perfecting you welding skills.... It will save hundred of hours of frustration and the money you have to pay out to accomplish things your improved welding skills can provide... There is three words that will help your skills, Practice...Practice...Practice...

Welding Tips and Tricks - TIG, MIG, Stick and a pantload of other info

Down and Dirty Welding tips and tricks , No PhD's allowed

weldingtipsandtricks.com

Thanks for the link! I'll check it out.

Agree that I'd like to be able to fix broken hitches and similar structural repairs. I've got a pile of scrap metal that was headed to the scrap yard including some pretty heavy stuff. I should start practicing on that stuff. Thx.

 

[JTP]

I learned an easy method of hooking up heavier implements years ago by accident that works very well. I was unhooking a heavy 8ft disc on muddy ground so i placed 4 old tires under it to prevent it from sinking in the ground.
When i went to hook it up the next time it was the easiest it had ever been. The tires acted like springs and allowed the disc to be moved in all directions to get the links on the pins with little effort and no resetting of the tractor.
It also solved the problem of what to do with all my old tires. I now use tires for all my implements.

 

[workinonit]

I'm not grasping the issues being had with hooking up implements if the tractor has extendable arms. Even if things aren't level. I back up to something leaving maybe 2" to 4" gap away from the pins. Get the height adjusted so that you have equidistance vertically with the two arms. Extend the links, pin them or slide them on and back into the locks. If it's unlevel you may need to raise and lower a couple of times but they will pop in. Then hook up the center link and the PTO if so needed. It's not a quick hitch but I've been doing it for lots of years with no issues.

 

[CoyPatton]

That's what I was afraid of... that is, the solution is a quick hitch.
I am uncertain if I get one, how / if it will effect the shafts on my seeder or post hole digger ? Maybe would be okay ?
Does anyone have a recommendation for a quick hitch ? The bottom pins on my tractor are Cat2, but all my implements are Cat 1.

Most QH (all 3 points) are not compatible with post hole diggers (PHD) as most PHD’s hook directly to the tractor top link mount.
Any PTO shaft that has been cut to length (shortened) can be an issue with any QH as they all add around 4” to the distance between the tractor PTO connection and the implement PTO connection. As a footnote there are PTO extenders available which may be able to provide the fill of the gap as could an overrun clutch if it is not already built into your PTO.
Also if your implements are not WH compatible, expect to modify each to fit. This is common with older implements (some of is believe these are built heavier and will out last the newer implements). When looking at QH’s consider Pat’s quick change system. It is not for everyone, but it dies meet the needs of some of us.
as for your Cat 2 tractor and Cat 1 implements, unless your tractor has dual size balls in your lower lift arms, you are using bushings, you will need to continue using bushings or start using bushings with a QH.

 

[Bentrim]

Check the sway blocks they may be holes to bolt them "sideways" to what they are now. That would make them narrower and be easier to hook up implement. If I remember right the 4010 ( the old big one) had blocks the could be bolted on the side to narrow them or could be removed and or bolted on different so they only worked when the hitch was fully raised. The 520 had the elephant ears and only worked when the hitch was raised. No issue hooking up implements. That said sway blocks were available as an option and used spacers of different length for cat 1 or 2.

 

[workinonit]

Yea those sway blocks had a scalloped side that allowed more sway as the hitch was lowered. You could flip them to the square side and it would stop the sway all the way through the lift.

 

[Spike56]

Check the sway blocks they may be holes to bolt them "sideways" to what they are now. That would make them narrower and be easier to hook up implement. If I remember right the 4010 ( the old big one) had blocks the could be bolted on the side to narrow them or could be removed and or bolted on different so they only worked when the hitch was fully raised. The 520 had the elephant ears and only worked when the hitch was raised. No issue hooking up implements. That said sway blocks were available as an option and used spacers of different length for cat 1 or 2.

Yes, I checked the sway blocks. They are set for Cat 1. You can flip them and re-bolt for Cat2. Should be easy except the mud dobbers build nests in the holes which you have to clean out to get the bolts in.

 

[Spike56]

Most QH (all 3 points) are not compatible with post hole diggers (PHD) as most PHD’s hook directly to the tractor top link mount.
Any PTO shaft that has been cut to length (shortened) can be an issue with any QH as they all add around 4” to the distance between the tractor PTO connection and the implement PTO connection. As a footnote there are PTO extenders available which may be able to provide the fill of the gap as could an overrun clutch if it is not already built into your PTO.
Also if your implements are not WH compatible, expect to modify each to fit. This is common with older implements (some of is believe these are built heavier and will out last the newer implements). When looking at QH’s consider Pat’s quick change system. It is not for everyone, but it dies meet the needs of some of us.
as for your Cat 2 tractor and Cat 1 implements, unless your tractor has dual size balls in your lower lift arms, you are using bushings, you will need to continue using bushings or start using bushings with a QH.

I did try Pat's. Did not work for me. I had to use all the spacer blocks and the ends of my lower 3-point are angled. I got them on, but they just did not work very well for me. A good concept but..... gave them to a friend.

 

[timbrr]

So, again, just looking for suggestions I can afford or something I am overlooking since I am NOT extremely familiar with tractors.

I'm not sure whether this will work/help for you and your tractor in the place(s) you do your hitching, but...

I hook up my 3-point implements on flat ground, so once I've got the lower arms unpinned and spread, I line the tractor up as best I can and then back it up so I'm just short of where I need to be -- so I know I'll be using the telescoping feature on both sides. That really helps. Being too close undermines the usefulness of the telescoping feature.

I then slip the tractor into Neutral.

When I'm back there hooking up the implement, sometimes I need to move the tractor forwards or backwards just a little bit to help things slip on easily. With the tractor in Neutral, I can just grab the nearest rear wheel by the nubs and manually turn it a bit to move the tractor. That allows me to micro-adjust the position of the tractor without having to climb up onto the seat, and -- in my situation at least -- makes hooking up implements trivial.

If rotating a rear wheel by hand is not feasible for you, then I'm pretty sure wedging one end of a 2x4 under a wheel and levering it would work just as well to get those small movements that make the job a whole lot easier.

Good luck!