Roofing discussion!!!

rScotty · Jul 21, 2021

jthibodeau89 said:
SNIP

Note, the locking standing seam we used must be placed on a solid deck, not purlins or fur strips.
87k

Why is that? I'm learning a lot from this thread, but not all of it applies to all climates.
Are there types of locking standing seam that work with furring strips? Without looking into it, I simply figured that there was.

The project here is to put some kind of steel over the barn's asphalt shingles mostly for fire protection. The shingles are basically in good shape, only about 30 years old.

Is anything better than the heavy gauge hot-dipped galvanized corrugated roofing? I have some of that I put on the barn at our old place and it is doing fine. Had to redo the fastening a few times.
But corrugated is seriously ugly. Does anyone make corrugated roofiing with a stone overcoating?
rScotty

jthibodeau89 · Jul 21, 2021

I suspect that it is because standing seam has no corrogations, and thus very little stiffness. Standing seam has no exposed screws and is usually made up of 16" wide panels that are continuous from ridge to eave.

I guessing that it could be installed with 1x4 fur strips placed 8~12" OC. Just google standing seam metal roof images. I have seen some that are onstalled on furring strips.

jthibodeau89 · Jul 21, 2021

desertdog71 said:
Standing seam, over sheating, with ice and water shield, vented ridge, blown in ceiling insulation with heeled trusses is the route I am taking. It's cost effective and will last for a long time. Cost effective, not cheap.

Basically the same roof as we have, though we added R53 worth of insulation batts. And one part of the house structure has 6" SIP panels for the roof structure.

rScotty · Jul 22, 2021

jthibodeau89 said:
Basically the same roof as we have, though we added R53 worth of insulation batts. And one part of the house structure has 6" SIP panels for the roof structure.

So does yours have heeled trusses too? I don't understand the advantage to having heeled trusses over simply building the walls higher.

jthibodeau89 · Jul 23, 2021

The original truss roof was not heeled. In the 90s the previous owner added covered porch extensions to both eaves. The new roof deck was put on rafters and started at the ridge. This raised the exterior wall height 12" and 24" above the ceiling, essentially creating the effect of a heel truss. The original deck was trimmed back about a foot upslope from the raised wall, venting the space. The old deck at the ridge end was not vented. I plan to do that this fall.

I wish they had removed the shingles from the old deck. They just skived the new rafters at the ridge end and nailed to the old deck.

Heel trusses raise the roof deck above the top plate and ceiling to allow more effective ventilation of the attic space, and thus with proper insulation and sealing are more energy efficient.

jthibodeau89 · Jul 23, 2021

Walls higher does not necessarily increase space between roof deck and ceiling if ceiling is applied to bottom chord of truss.

Blue Mule · Jul 23, 2021

jthibodeau89 said:
We went with standing seam steel for our hill top home. Got tired of losing shingles to the wind. The old roof had been patched multiple times by the previous owner. Got a quote for $50k for 70sq of roofing and jumped on it.

As in, $50,000 for a roofing job?

Jesus Christ. I could have a "normal" roof redone 10 times for that, which is enough to cover 150-200 years worth of time. How long are you planning on living?

jthibodeau89 · Jul 23, 2021

Went with standing seam metal for many reasons. Insurance quote for asphalt shingles was $25k. I seriously doubt you could do 70sq of asphalt roof including 9 skylights and 900' of gutter for $5k.