Sawyer Rob
Super Member
Well, they are NOT screw bottle jacks, they are "hydraulic" bottle jacks...
That does make them hydraulic, doesn't it?
SR
Tractors and wood! Show your pics
- Thread starter Bota4me
- Start date
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That does make them hydraulic, doesn't it?
SR
hunt4570
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2015
- Messages
- 4,072
- Location
- South Carolina
- Tractor
- Grand L3540 ,724 loader, bucket, grapple and now forks also! And just for OP.. a pool!
Not really...
I'm thinking hydraulic you pull a lever not pump them up. Still a nice set up.
IndyJay
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2021
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- S.E. Indiana
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- 2021 Kioti DK4510MS w/Loader, Grapple Prev: Massey 1250
Yes, really. There is still a lever, it's just a matter of who or what has to do the pumping.
I've seen old fisher snow plows which used hydraulic jacks for the pump to raise and lower the plow.Yes, really. There is still a lever, it's just a matter of who or what has to do the pumping.
Yogi05
Platinum Member
Yeah, I am cutting to 6"x6" x 8' for landscape timbers to replace a rotting 20 yr old retaining wall. (about 100' x 5' with stairs ).
I need to replace about 55 to 60 feet right away, and the rest when I can.
I was originally going to do 8x8 but there are not many trees on the property that will yield those without wandering throughout the whole stand and selecting. That poses
unwanted effort getting them out. I'm currently able to cut from the edge of the tree line so fairly easy.
I dropped a larger tree today and I thought it would be a shame to cut something that big into a 6x6.
Haven't had a chance yet to see if I can get 2 timbers (6x6) from that one, and I'm not sure my antique mill is good enough for dimensional lumber but it might be time to try.
The cowboy action shooters at my range have been taking all the slabs, and the few board-looking pieces I accidentally ended up with to build stuff in their cowboy town.
So not much going to waste at the moment.
I want to rig up some kind of measuring markers on my mill.
There are a couple "yardsticks" screwed to it now but the part that moves with the cutting head is bent, and I'm not sure the increments are right.
I'll figure something out.
Just replacing the bent part with a solidly mounted straight edge would probably work. Not that bent thing
I need to replace about 55 to 60 feet right away, and the rest when I can.
I was originally going to do 8x8 but there are not many trees on the property that will yield those without wandering throughout the whole stand and selecting. That poses
unwanted effort getting them out. I'm currently able to cut from the edge of the tree line so fairly easy.
I dropped a larger tree today and I thought it would be a shame to cut something that big into a 6x6.
Haven't had a chance yet to see if I can get 2 timbers (6x6) from that one, and I'm not sure my antique mill is good enough for dimensional lumber but it might be time to try.
The cowboy action shooters at my range have been taking all the slabs, and the few board-looking pieces I accidentally ended up with to build stuff in their cowboy town.
So not much going to waste at the moment.
I want to rig up some kind of measuring markers on my mill.
There are a couple "yardsticks" screwed to it now but the part that moves with the cutting head is bent, and I'm not sure the increments are right.
I'll figure something out.
Just replacing the bent part with a solidly mounted straight edge would probably work. Not that bent thing
Sawyer Rob
Super Member
How long do you expect that raw lumber to last on, or in the ground??
SR
SR
Yogi05
Platinum Member
If you're referring to a retaining wall, it is currently what the big box stores called ground contact landscape timbers.
Didn't know it when I bought them but life expectancy was ten years. I got twenty.
They didn't seem to be treated with anything but logically they probably were, but they were not pressure treated.
My new wall will have some kind of treatment (I just barely looked into). If I can get ten years out of that I will be content.
With the cost of lumber, building with raw is my only option.
My front lawn and house was built on top of the existing ground level as opposed to excavating (for a number of reasons) and
the front lawn is where my septic system is. Because the retaining wall I'l replacing is shoring up the front lawn on one side, it's
kind of a pressing matter. A short(er) term solution (raw lumber with a preservative or something) is my best option to keep
the septic system out of the driveway.
P.S. I've also looked at ways of keeping water away from the wall this time. The current wall was dropped on the ground and survived 20 years.
The new one, I'm hoping, with preventative measures will last as long or longer. (he says with crossed fingers).
I'm also hoping that's what you were asking because this was a long-assed answer if you that's not what you meant.
Doughknob
Veteran Member
Some last forever! --- osage orange will last several lifetimes. It is FAR better than pressure treated wood. But impossible to put staples or nails into.
