Workmaster 35, wont start **UPDATE Fixed see post 18**

   / Workmaster 35, wont start **UPDATE Fixed see post 18** #1  

Scott Clearman

New member
Joined
Aug 16, 2021
Messages
10
Tractor
New Holland Workmaster 35
I'm needing some help. I have a Workmaster 35, about a 2013 or so. Last time I drove it and all was fine, parked it with no issues. The next time I got on, within a few days, I turn the key and the starter won't engage. Turning the key on turns on all the gauges, lights, alarms but turning to start nothing happens. It's like leaving it in gear or the PTO is on, but I've made sure it's all off. I have jumped the seat switch and checked all the fuses. I even bought a new starter relay but it doesn't change. I've drained the water from the fuel bowl. I think it is an interlock but I don't know how to check each one without replacing them. I can 'jump' the starter and the engine turns but it wont start. I've checked and I'm not getting power to the starter when the key is turned to start. I'm hoping there is some 'common' issue.
 
   / Workmaster 35, wont start **UPDATE Fixed see post 18** #2  
There is a similar chat where recently a schematic of that safety system was posted. I’m thinking something isn’t checking out right
 
   / Workmaster 35, wont start **UPDATE Fixed see post 18** #3  

Scott, Look at the link above for some general but useful info. Follow movement of your clutch pedal and all the linkages that might be attached to it. see if it ends up to a switch. Most tractor have some sort of external (mainy) or internal Neutral safety switch. The switch is a normally open switch in the starting circuit. Once you clutch, the switches closes and complete starting circuit to get the engine turned. The fact that you can hot wire( short the starting solenoid) and tractor start has a high liklihood of the switch is either malfunction or the wire has come of getting snagged by a branch or something. Obviously starting it the manner you do eliminate fuel delivery issues that is good.

JC,
 
   / Workmaster 35, wont start **UPDATE Fixed see post 18** #4  
My Workmaster 40 did the same thing.Could jump thr starter and it would turn over but not start.Turns out I had accidently engaged the mid pto while working in thick brush.Once I shut it off it would not start again.You could jump the starter but engine would not fire off.HTH
 
   / Workmaster 35, wont start **UPDATE Fixed see post 18**
  • Thread Starter
#5  
UPDATE: Still down
So far I have:
changed relays
charged battery
removed ground cable and cleaned frame and connection, reinstalled
Replaced the PTO switch (it needed it, it would go all around like a clock but still worked last time i checked)
I have jumpered safeties (seat, clutch) but not the forward/reverse/neutral sensor. That has 3 wires in the connector and I'm not sure which is which.
I've also checked out the key switch with the instructions from the manual and it's ok.

Can anyone tell me how to jumper the 3 wire connector on the forward/reverse sensor?
 
   / Workmaster 35, wont start **UPDATE Fixed see post 18** #6  
I can't tell you how to jumper that connector but if you have an HST transmission be sure the pedal is in a neutral position - not trying to go a little bit to forward or reverse. You may need to score a wiring diagram to get much further into it. I don't know your tractor, but some have an OPC (operator presence control) module, too. All the switches can be correct but if the OPC says they're not the tractor won't go.
 
   / Workmaster 35, wont start **UPDATE Fixed see post 18**
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Update again:

I bought a service manual. Im tired of swapping parts just to see. Now I have the schematics and guide. I'll let you know what I find.
 
   / Workmaster 35, wont start **UPDATE Fixed see post 18** #8  
Hope you can find the solution.

What year was your tractor built?
 
   / Workmaster 35, wont start **UPDATE Fixed see post 18**
  • Thread Starter
#10  
UPDATE: So I got the manual and went through some tests. Found that the proximity switch on the forward/reverse shifter was bad. BUT, based on what I could see from the test procedure, I should have been able to use a jumper and bypass the switch. The bypass did not work, still no start.
I suspect that there are still other issues, which at this point can almost only mean the safety controller. But I'm holding out hope.
For now, I have a proximity switch ordered and I'm waiting for it before I test or do anything else.
 
 
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