My Industrial Cabin Build

   / My Industrial Cabin Build
  • Thread Starter
#2,671  
Evidently you did not read about the cycle stop valve that I posted up thread :(.


I was in the parking lot of lowes, on the way home from work, yesterday when I opened that link and gave it a quick look.
For the system she quoted me, I thought it included a cyclestop and the VFD drive. So I thought they were part of the same system. I just sat down and read the article and became more confused so I went back and looked at the order quote and the website again. They sell the cycle stop but that wasn’t included on the manifold that was in the package. I will have to read more on this. Not gonna happen tonight though. I am on call and I am wiped out from lack of sleep.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build
  • Thread Starter
#2,672  
With the constant pressure valve you get all the the benefits of the VFD without all the added cost and complexity.

I have run my pump off of my generator. So I still have water and most everything else when power goes out.

My system shown below. CycleStop valve is red item in photo

View attachment 716315

I am finally starting to understand. How long have you had this system?
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #2,673  
About 3 years now-have a lot of experience with pressure tank systems and much prefer this.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #2,674  
FYI - The cyclestop valve guy is on TBN. I think he goes by Valveman or something similar.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #2,675  
Just started watching latest video

How will you get wires in the side of the panel with studs on both sides?

Cover will be off until all circuits are installed. Those square holes in cover screws are for a square bit, I use flat screwdriver.

I would have installed a large sheet of plywood on the wall and stuck the panel on it.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #2,676  
I fed my entire panel from the top and bottom, so it is doable as long as you plan well and double-up wires through cable clamps. But you are going to need some way to secure wires within a few inches of the panel, so a 1x board set in between the studs may be wise. You are going to end up cursing having put it in between the studs as access is going to be a PITA. But it will look prettier in the end!

Unless you have a local code requirement on # of boxes per circuit, there is nothing in the NEC about it. The rule I am aware of for commercial work is 13 receptacles on a 20A 120V line. But only commercial as there are no requirements in residential for this. Modern houses can get crazy with the number of circuits in them, so you do need to pay attention when planning this so you don't run out. Not putting enough on a circuit can cause you more problems this way.

I have found it much better to separate outlets from lighting. You group together a large section of room lights on a 15A circuit, and then a room or two of outlets on a 20A. The main reason for this is lighting loads are really very light (pun not intended, but I'll take it...) plus the fixture wires are very often these super tiny 18ga (or worse) things and they do NOT like to cooperate with a beefier 12ga romex wire. Lights are also fairly fixed so you can figure out how much load you have and be pretty solid on it. Outlets can get anything plugged in, so it is safer to go up to 20A for those which also makes for fewer nuisance trips. Judging by what I see for your house layout and size, you could probably run 2 or 3 lighting circuits to cover all your lights. Being new you are probably going to have LEDs pretty much everywhere and they draw nothing to speak of.

Count up the number of 220V breakers you will need. Typically well, AC or heat pump, stove, oven, water heater are the things to watch for. If you have all of those that is 10 spaces gone which is 1/4 of your total in a 40-space 200A panel. If you run a subpanel from your main, that is another double. Then you have the required dedicated single pole circuits - kitchen x2, microwave, each bath gets one, laundry. That is 6+ more spaces gone. It gets tight in there pretty quick...
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #2,677  
Getting access to those side knock outs and securing the wires is not going to be easy !

I have watched alot of Holmes on Homes construction shows. One thing that always caught my eye was the way his electricians mounted the main service panel. 90% of the time the box is mounted on a 3/4" plywood panel. But the main thing to me was they usually mounted the service panel in a horizontal position not the vertical position ! Not sure why but his show is based out of Canada most of the time and maybe they have a reason for doing it that way ?

One last item. Do you put your higher rated breakers ( stove, ac, dryer, etc. ) at the top of the panel ?? Was told by a electrician you need to do this as it can cause your lights to flicker when one of these high output appliances turns on and that breaker was near the bottom of the panel. ? It was happening to me when the ac turned on. So i had the ac people install a 'soft' start capacitor and the problem went away.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #2,678  
I don't know about "top" of the panel -- panels rarely have a common orientation -- but more importantly, "nearest to the main breaker".

My GE main panel has the main breaker at the bottom, and that is where all the high draw circuits are stacked and also where the generator back feed breaker comes in.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #2,679  
I don't know about "top" of the panel -- panels rarely have a common orientation -- but more importantly, "nearest to the main breaker".

My GE main panel has the main breaker at the bottom, and that is where all the high draw circuits are stacked and also where the generator back feed breaker comes in.
My main panel ( GE ) at the house has the main breaker at the top, but the main panel ( Sq D ) breaker in the barn is at the bottom. You are correct in the wording...nearest to the main breaker !
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #2,680  
I fed my entire panel from the top and bottom, so it is doable as long as you plan well and double-up wires through cable clamps. But you are going to need some way to secure wires within a few inches of the panel, so a 1x board set in between the studs may be wise. You are going to end up cursing having put it in between the studs as access is going to be a PITA. But it will look prettier in the end!

Unless you have a local code requirement on # of boxes per circuit, there is nothing in the NEC about it. The rule I am aware of for commercial work is 13 receptacles on a 20A 120V line. But only commercial as there are no requirements in residential for this. Modern houses can get crazy with the number of circuits in them, so you do need to pay attention when planning this so you don't run out. Not putting enough on a circuit can cause you more problems this way.

I have found it much better to separate outlets from lighting. You group together a large section of room lights on a 15A circuit, and then a room or two of outlets on a 20A. The main reason for this is lighting loads are really very light (pun not intended, but I'll take it...) plus the fixture wires are very often these super tiny 18ga (or worse) things and they do NOT like to cooperate with a beefier 12ga romex wire. Lights are also fairly fixed so you can figure out how much load you have and be pretty solid on it. Outlets can get anything plugged in, so it is safer to go up to 20A for those which also makes for fewer nuisance trips. Judging by what I see for your house layout and size, you could probably run 2 or 3 lighting circuits to cover all your lights. Being new you are probably going to have LEDs pretty much everywhere and they draw nothing to speak of.

Count up the number of 220V breakers you will need. Typically well, AC or heat pump, stove, oven, water heater are the things to watch for. If you have all of those that is 10 spaces gone which is 1/4 of your total in a 40-space 200A panel. If you run a subpanel from your main, that is another double. Then you have the required dedicated single pole circuits - kitchen x2, microwave, each bath gets one, laundry. That is 6+ more spaces gone. It gets tight in there pretty quick...
I'm not 100% sure, but in residential work, isn't it code for ALL outlets to be only 15 amps now? Or maybe that is just bedrooms, etc?
 
 
Top