John Deere 2120 Clutch Problems

[nokiddin]

Hey all.

So I have an old 2120, can't remember the year off the top of my head, but one the old ones.

Lately, I've been having trouble getting it into gear. Most times when I have the Clutch fully in, the gears grind bad, almost like the clutch isn't in at all. Then sometimes it seems to not grind at all, but only shifting into low or reverse, shifting into high range has the most trouble. I can still get by if I idle the engine right down, and shift, might grind the gears a bit, but usually get it in.

I adjusted the clutch lever right up to a half inch of play, but that didn't change anything.

So I am thinking the clutch is going. Is what I am describing typical for a worn clutch? My only experience with a blown clutch was on my dad's 3130 and it went from working fine to nothing in an instant.

Am I missing something?

Lastly, if the clutch needs replacing, just how big of job is it. Now I know it's a big job, but I am pretty handy. Do I need a hoist and such to pull the tractor apart? Lots of specialized equipment?

Thanks so much guys.

 

[beenthere]

Does sound like splitting the tractor will be needed, and that shouldn't be too difficult.
Here is a video that shows some rigging that will support the front end ahead of the clutch housing to allow rolling it away from the rear end. A jack and blocking will support the rear. Just some careful planning and rigging will be very helpful.

Wish you well.. sounds like your diagnosis is right.

 

[Tx Jim]

Sounds as if clutch plate is dragging or pilot brg that end of trans input shaft rests in is failing. I agree with beenthere that a tractor split will be required to solve either problem.

 

[nokiddin]

Thanks for the insight guys.

Is there particular components that you typically just change since you have it all open? Or do you typically open and examine first to see what is all wrong?

 

[orezok]

I would replace and exposed seals.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Thanks for the insight guys.

Is there particular components that you typically just change since you have it all open? Or do you typically open and examine first to see what is all wrong?

Clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing. I think those have double clutches in them. Neighbor has a 68 model still has orig clutch. He runs 1000 head cattle, farms, cuts hay. Tractor gets used. Only tractor until the 90's. You may just need to grease the throw out bearing. Some of those have a grease hose that has a grease zerk screwed into it that lets you grease the bearing from the outside. Maybe thats all you need. Take off inspection plates and see that you lube the trans snout too, where the to bearing slides.

 

[nokiddin]

Clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing. I think those have double clutches in them. Neighbor has a 68 model still has orig clutch. He runs 1000 head cattle, farms, cuts hay. Tractor gets used. Only tractor until the 90's. You may just need to grease the throw out bearing. Some of those have a grease hose that has a grease zerk screwed into it that lets you grease the bearing from the outside. Maybe thats all you need. Take off inspection plates and see that you lube the trans snout too, where the to bearing slides.

Thanks for the advice! I'll definitely take a look for that. That would be a lot easier! Any idea where I might locate the grease hose?

 

[Tx Jim]

Throwout brg grease zerk is item 23 accessed by removing round inspection cover in clutch housing closest to engine .

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/60379/referrer/navigation/pgId/240802

 

[nokiddin]

Is there a specific type of grease I should use for that? Or just the all purpose stuff u use for everything else?

 

[Tx Jim]

General purpose grease is fine. Be sure not to over grease the TO brg.

 

[nokiddin]

I couldn't seem to locate a grease zerk when I looked through the inspection window. Maybe some tractors didn't have them installed?

Is there any way that I could grease the throwout bearing without a zerk, or anything else I could try?

 

[Tx Jim]

No greasing of TO brg without presence of grease fitting

 

[Zebrafive]

Tractor was offered with and without grease fitting on TO bearing. Have you tried spinning it to see if it's free/smooth?
Have you checked the PTO clutch lockout on the clutch pedal linkage? Loosen the bolt, and pull back on the clutch pedal and tighten the bolt. (Opposite locks out the PTO clutch, loosen bolt and push clutch pedal, tighten bolt) Bolt moves (when loosened) in slot shown. It should be tight for use.

With 1/2" of free play and still grinds gears, you have worn out clutch, or warped clutch disc.

 

[nokiddin]

The part with the arrow spins freely.

 

[nokiddin]

Ok guys, I will probably eventually start a new thread to help with my new problem, but quickly wanted to ask this.

Shortly after I was posting about the Clutch, the tractor developed a knock and lots of blowby.

I have the engine apart in frame and have found a bad rod bearing. I'm thinking the crank will have to come out and I'm wondering if anyone knows whether or not the crank can be removed in frame on a 2120?

Also, will removing the crank require the same split as would be required to inspect the Clutch?

 

[JimB77]

To R&R crankshaft one will need to split tractor similar to R&R traction clutch.

 

[nokiddin]

Will I need to pull the engine out? I don't currently have a way to lift an engine out, so I trying to figure out what I'll need to finish the job.

 

[Tx Jim]

Crankshaft can be R&R from the bottom. I once had a broken crankshaft in a Chev 6.L diesel replaced while engine remained in the truck. Having engine in a rotating engine stand to R&R crankshaft would be much easier task.

 

[nokiddin]

Thanks guys.

One rod journal is 68.7 MM, while the other three are 69.7.

I am assuming that means the crank needs to come out.

For a tractor split, is it possible to use an engine hoist to support the front from the side to move the front end forward, and then support it with blocking?

Thanks

 

[jd110]

Yes it can be split that way. I am afraid you will not be successful pulling the crank from the bottom. I don’t think the timing cover can be removed without separating the front support from the engine block. When you already have to split it to remove flywheel and flywheel housing, engine will be out when it is separated from front axle support.