allowed pushing with box blade

[S_Sylvest]

How much pushing backward against a box blade is permissible? Most box blades, including mine, have a back blade. The one Mahindra sells does too. But I cannot find confirmation on how much the 3 point hitch can take while pushing.

 

[mwayne]

I have a tilt cylinder on my tractor and backed my box blade up to a small stump thinking to use the cylinder lift to uproot the stump. Instead it bent the lower lift arm quite badly. So I can recommend not doing that.

 

[hosspuller]

Not what you what to hear... It will push until it doesn't... Hit a root or a buried rock... The 3 point hitch is NOT designed to push... Consider it a chain. The links will collapse.

 

[jeff9366]

It will push until it doesn't...

If your tractor has pin adjustable, telescoping TPH stabilizers, as opposed to turnbuckle or "chain" stabilizers and very strong Lower Links you can push prudently.

Stabilizer types and strength of Lower Links varies by tractor model.

 

[nybirdman]

Good way to break something expensive pushing backwards.No trip or give.

 

[dennis103]

I was pushing brush and debris out of a new road I was making in the woods and the corner of the box blade caught a very solid root and bent one of the 3ph arms. At the time I had a JD 4310 turf tires with chains. Pushing evenly on the box the tractor will usually lose traction before bending things, but it can happen. Leave it to me to find a way.

 

[Gee Ray]

Good way to break something expensive pushing backwards.No trip or give.

What trips or gives going forward when you are using a box blade?

 

[s219]

How much pushing backward against a box blade is permissible? Most box blades, including mine, have a back blade. The one Mahindra sells does too. But I cannot find confirmation on how much the 3 point hitch can take while pushing.

The rear cutting edge is not for pushing backwards, it is for smoothing while going forward. You adjust the length of your top link to determine whether the front cutting edge digs or the rear cutting edge smooths while you are going forward.

You can *carefully* and *gently* smooth soft material in reverse by shortening the top link such that the rear cutting edge is off the ground and the front cutting edge is feathered and smoothing. But this requires experience and careful attention.

I have a couple neighbors that were completely ignorant about the top link's effect and importance with a box blade, and they wreaked a lot of havoc on their tractors when moving in reverse. The three point hitch geometry has little to no strength when pushing an implement in reverse. The geometry is only setup for pulling implements in forward.

 

[4570Man]

I know it’s not designed for it but I’ve frequently pushed with everything the tractor is capable of on several machines and never hurt anything.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I know it’s not designed for it but I’ve frequently pushed with everything the tractor is capable of on several machines and never hurt anything.

And I have welded and straightened in a press, many a lift arm. Never mine, but for others. Pushing with a box blade backwards was the cause of the last few breakages.

 

[4570Man]

And I have welded and straightened in a press, many a lift arm. Never mine, but for others. Pushing with a box blade backwards was the cause of the last few breakages.

Bending an arm with traction force alone would be pretty rare. If they’re ramming stuff all bets are off.

 

[skipmarcy]

Really, I've pushed with my boxblade about as much as I've pulled with it over the 25+ years I've had it on two different tractors. What has ALWAYS "given" on mine are the drawpins on the boxblade - they bend before anything else. I always keep a couple spares in the toolbox. They also bend going forward if I grab something that doesn't want to move. Many times I've been able to straighten the pins with a 10 lb. sledge and keep on going, after a time or two of that I usually replace it - $3 -$4 each at the Co-op.

 

[Rebeldad1]

a really bad idea. not what 3 points are designed for.

in fact the front bucket really isnt designed for pushing either. we all do it some of us are more careful than others.

 

[Xfaxman]

I can push with the front or back of my 4' box blade:

Turned around, pushing with the back:

 

[DaBear3428]

I was gifted a 6' box blade that had bent and lose cat 1 pins so i broke out the wrenches and a big A$$ pipe wrench, replaced them after a lot of shouting in french. was very proud of myself as i used my new (to me) box blade with bright n shiny cat 1 pins in it as a counter weight while digging out my pond until i backed into the bank and promptly bent the heck out of one of my new pins.

 

[Xfaxman]

Now I can push with the front or back of the 8' box blade:

Pushing with the back on a 3 point adapter:

And the build thread: Adding SSQA to a Box Blade

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

It's just like an old wagon, the team of horses pulled from the front. Never seen them push from the back

 

[milkman636]

I operated a 9k telehandler with a 45’ reach last month for a couple days while setting steel for a new barn. It was my first experience in one. They are awesome machines, but backing up without a camera required some forethought and a little bit of memory. The mirrors provided a limited view. So, I totally can appreciate why you adapted the blades to push instead of pull. Very cool. It’s hard to imagine how awesome the telescoping is without experiencing it. Now I wish one of my tractors had a telescoping loader.

 

[Xfaxman]

They are awesome machines, but backing up without a camera required some forethought and a little bit of memory. The mirrors provided a limited view.

That is why I have a rear view camera:

And 7" monitor:

 

[DaBear3428]

Really, I've pushed with my boxblade about as much as I've pulled with it over the 25+ years I've had it on two different tractors. What has ALWAYS "given" on mine are the drawpins on the boxblade - they bend before anything else. I always keep a couple spares in the toolbox. They also bend going forward if I grab something that doesn't want to move. Many times I've been able to straighten the pins with a 10 lb. sledge and keep on going, after a time or two of that I usually replace it - $3 -$4 each at the Co-op.

I think you are in the same boat as I with heavy 3pt lift arms and stabilizers, our 3pt hardware is tougher than the cat 1 pins, some others might not be so lucky, the 5145 is cat1/2. after bending my new cat1 pins i thought i would just upgrade to cat2 but after some better thinking i realized that right now the cat1 pin is the fuse and i might want to keep it that way. i'm the same way on my grapple, i went with light duty to start with (not having an FEL on past tractors) until i get some practice so i do not tweak my FEL.