Septic issue

[Boss 302]

X2 on checking the distribution box, it may have gotten out of level causing all or the majority of the water to go into one line. The lines inside the distribution box may have the dial adjusters so that you can set all of them at the same elevation.

 

[Egon]

Perhaps consider a “Mound” system. Commonly used when the area doesn’t’ perk well.

Might have to revert to having the system redesigned by an engineer.

 

[PBinWA]

X2 on checking the distribution box, it may have gotten out of level causing all or the majority of the water to go into one line. The lines inside the distribution box may have the dial adjusters so that you can set all of them at the same elevation.

I had the same issue as the OP. I had to dig up and replace the distribution box (mine was cracked) and then play with the dial adjusters to get the water flowing evenly. Been 10+ years and all is working well.

 

[dmccarty]

Our system is gravity fed, on a slope, and we have clay where we do not have rocks. When the septic field was built, we had to have clay brought in to cap the field. In other words to prevent rainwater from entering the septic lines clay was put on top of the septic field. The down slope side of the field is not wet.

Are you sure the problem is with the septic system and rain water runoff? In our old house in Wake county, I had to dig a trench and fill with sand to help control the water run off from the slope of the land as well as the down spouts of two houses to mostly solve a wet area problem.

Later,
Dan

 

[4570Man]

How much slope are we talking about here?

Sounds as if it wasn't built correctly; ideally, you want your septic lines to all be equally full, i.e. dead level. It is possible that what was done, but your clay soil is forcing the water out at the low points on your slope. My drain lines are set into a steep,slope, but they do cascade top line to bottom line in the clay soil, and we have no issues. This leads me to suspect that your water table could be generally high in your low spot, leading to issues.

What do you mean by "emergency area"?

I would be inclined to do as your septic guy suggests and build up the lower ground with sand gradually until the soil is dry and stays dry. There are some nice YouTube videos on how to do it, but you keep spreading 1/4-1/2"of sand into your grass (you can use a Scott's lawn spreader), then let the grass grow, then spread more in. You use a rake and extra sand to manually fill in any excessively low spots. Basically, put the sand in as fast as the grass grows, although by the sound of your second post, you may want to go whole hog and add a foot, or three, of sand topped by enough topsoil to get a lawn back.

I am assuming that your septic tank has been pumped and that you don't have a water leak in the house.

All the best,

Peter

That’s how they’re supposed to work. I assume the lines run across the hill vs up and down the hill and the water is just pooling at the bottom of the hill. By emergency area I assume he means duplicate area. Locally to get a septic permit you have to have enough ground that perks to put in the drain field again in the event the first one fails.

 

[TheMan419]

The picture you paint of system isn't near enough detailed to alow suggestions that include much meaningful detail. Why do you distrust the septic guy you have been working with and why haven't you hired one you can trust? Trying out WAGS picked up from the net can get expensive,not to mention possibly make matters worse.

One hundred times this. I give professional advice for a living. I ask clients this from time to time. If you don't trust me why are you here? Go find someone whose advice you will trust and take. Rarely have a client leave after we have that discussion and figure out where the miscommunication was.

If you have talked to your septic guy and he has explained everything to you, and you do not trust his advice.... get a second opinion from a professional, not a bunch of guys that own tractors.

 

[ljjhouser]

Before I say this, I will say - always check your local codes. Where I am located, is all bedrock. That means clay in on top of it. And most clay will not perk.
Are you using laterals?
Are they still in good condition? Or are they all silted in. The lateral field should be flat.

If not, you could replace them by removing clay and trucking in better soil that will perk.

NEXT answer. When I designed and installed my system. I had 9 loads of dirt hauled in. But it was mostly clay on top of bedrock. It did not perk, not one cup over 24 hrs.
The solution for me was to eliminate the idea of using a lateral field. Instead, I used a 1000 gal septic tank, then effluent goes to a small chlorine tank (about 1 ft cube size), then to a 500 gal holding tank. The holding tank gives the chlorine time to work and kill all bacteria. Then the effluent water goes to a sprinkling system driven by a Jet pump. That way there are no laterals and the water with fine mist mostly evaporates and waters grass.

That was done with city and county permit. Installed by myself - I did get a state Installers License. Just had to pass a test. easy.
Hope that helps. Just to give you some ideas. Also, I looked into building a lagoon with an aerator to speed treatment. But the liner was too much for me.

Well, Just some ideas.

 

[etpm]

When I installed my septic in Island County WA I had to pay an engineer to engineer the system. 700 bucks but money well spent. Between proper design and the county out to check on me and offer good advice several times a week I ended up with a very good installation. Installing it myself I came out thousands ahead, even after paying for the backhoe I bought to do the job.
Eric

 

[bigtiller]

Google...."Septic maintenance and repair near me"

I did that and they discovered and fixed my problem.
My distribution box had settled a little and they adjusted the outlets to fix the problem.
I had a line that the grass was always greener and taller than the rest of the field.

 

[Jstpssng]

When I installed my septic in Island County WA I had to pay an engineer to engineer the system. 700 bucks but money well spent. Between proper design and the county out to check on me and offer good advice several times a week I ended up with a very good installation. Installing it myself I came out thousands ahead, even after paying for the backhoe I bought to do the job.
Eric

You also know a bit more about how to do another one.
I started doing my own but quickly decided I wanted it done by a pro. It cost me around $1000 more than if I’d done it myself.