Series G info

[oneal]

If anyone has a series G shop manual and has the time to post a couple pics of belt change instructions I would be very appreciative. Mine broke down today and the belt is the obvious place to start.
I had plans to purchase a a manual but just didn't anticipate a failure like at 600hrs.
Thank you in advance

 

[ruffdog]

The regular owner/operator manual has belt adjustment and replacement in it. The belt service should be performed every 250 hours.
Remove inner fender, remove muffler, remove 6 bolts holding belt cover, adjust belt idler bracket to stop bracket clearance to .12" max.
Check your manual under preventative maintenance section.

 

[oneal]

The regular owner/operator manual has belt adjustment and replacement in it. The belt service should be performed every 250 hours.
Remove inner fender, remove muffler, remove 6 bolts holding belt cover, adjust belt idler bracket to stop bracket clearance to .12" max.
Check your manual under preventative maintenance section.

Ah, I am embarrassed. Sounds like I need to read the book I already have.. Thank you

 

[ruffdog]

It doesn't look to be that bad of a job, especially if the muffler comes off easily. You are basically adjusting the stop that limits the tension pulley from going too loose during operating.

 

[oneal]

It was indeed easy to access, unfortunately when I removed the cover the belt was intact but the broken end of the hydraulic pump and the drive pulley was lying in the bottom of the housing. .
As I mentioned I heard a lound mechanical hammering noise right before the lights went out which I now believe was the pump locking up

 

[ruffdog]

Ouch! Keep us posted on what you find out.

 

[laurencen]

that sure sounds expensive, I would have figured the belt would be squealing if the pump was locked up, for a pump to fail that quickly there is more of a issue than the pump, wen you say broken end of the pump you mean the shaft sheared?

 

[oneal]

that sure sounds expensive, I would have figured the belt would be squealing if the pump was locked up, for a pump to fail that quickly there is more of a issue than the pump, wen you say broken end of the pump you mean the shaft sheared?

Yes, I am certain very expensive. The belt is strong enough to kill the motor without slipping if you charge into a dirt pile so it holding up instead of the pump shaft doesn't surprise me.
I am no metalurgist but I am old enough with an industrial background to have viewed many twisted off shafts and this has a different color in part of the fracture that suggests it may have been fatiguing before the failure.

 

[oneal]

 

[laurencen]

have to agree the failure is looking like it has been cracked/flawed for some time, my old series A would stall many times when grading and took too much bite, the 2019 model is beefier but has stalled and I would be pissed if stalling caused a shaft to shear.

you can likely replace just the shaft and seals way cheaper than full replacement but suspect a real pain getting it off

 

[ruffdog]

Is that the keyway we are seeing at 10 oclock? Also, the grain is different at 2 oclock and at the bottom and top. Not uniform. At the far back is the hydraulic pump that can be separated from the 2 hydrostatic pump halves. I wonder if you would be able to just get the pulley half of the pump out?

 

[laurencen]

sure looks like the keyway, first looks I would say the shaft was not aligned causing stress but its a pulley, only thing is if the tension was way too high but sure is a odd looking break, some looks old fracture, could anything get trapped between the pump and pulley?

got a picture of the pully end

 

[oneal]

sure looks like the keyway, first looks I would say the shaft was not aligned causing stress but its a pulley,

Yes, the key and key way is in the pic.
The engine and pump bolt to a large casting with no alignment adjustment.

only thing is if the tension was way too high but sure is a odd looking

Tension is preset by the OEM spring tensioner. The only adjustment is to remove free play.

some looks old fracture

I agree, some of the fracture lines are not fresh.

could anything get trapped between the pump and pulley?

The entire drive system is encased with no way for objects to get into it to cause this.

 

[oneal]

With the current evidence of a shaft that had missed something in its build process like improper metal compound or heat treat I am now hopeful the shaft just finally and randomly come to the end of its life.
This would be much better than the shaft breaking due to internal failure and all the mess of a hydraulic system infiltrated with metal particles.

 

[laurencen]

My bet is alignment rather than bad heat treating when the shaft was made, just a little stress when in use over a few million revolutions, that way a fatigue crack develops and eventually lets go, look for a new shaft and seals and with luck the cab does not have to be removed, good luck with this one

 

[ruffdog]

I finally performed the hyd pump belt adjustment that was mentioned earlier. It was quite easy on the G series and only took 1.5 hours. Some of that time was welding a tailpipe bracket that broke. I found out that I didn't have to remove the muffler or large cover like the manual shows. Maybe they improved the process on the G? Remove the 5 bolts and remove the inner fender. Remove 3 bolts to remove the tailpipe. My tensioner gap was at 1/4" and it should be 1/8" MAX. They conveniently have openings in the belt cover to make the adjustment.

Edit: Parts and processes will be different even within the G-series. I'm seeing different part numbers depending on serial number.