GC series rear weight bucket with 2 inch hitch adapter ideas needed

[Dmacleo]

its not gonna happen this winter but for next winter I would like to have a 350-500lb or so rear 3pt (class 1) weight bucket that ALSO has 2' reese hitch capabilities.
I don't have a welder so cannot build myself, also due to fibromyalgia (parkinsons like shakes) I can't borrow friends/familys welders to build myself. I can't weld a straight bead to save anyones life...irony is the shakes work GREAT when brazing LOL

so I was wondering if any GC series owners (larger tractor owners prob not gonna have same needs as scut owners) had come across anything that meets these needs.

 

[WranglerX]

Be creative ..... Saw one ballast weight that was just a stack of weight lifting (cast iron ) weights on cat 1 draw bar....

tractor ballast weights - Google Search

So many ideas, should find some inspiration here to create what you might need.....

And nuts and bolts still work, welding is only a tool of convince.....

 

[Dmacleo]

Be creative ..... Saw one ballast weight that was just a stack of weight lifting (cast iron ) weights on cat 1 draw bar....

View attachment 723714

tractor ballast weights - Google Search

So many ideas, should find some inspiration here to create what you might need.....

And nuts and bolts still work, welding is only a tool of convince.....

thought about something like that but really not best fit for me.
I'd really like something I can just back up to and with quick hitch hook to.
technically I am not supposed to lift over 25 lbs (I got multiple mechanical tears and injuries as well as multiple neuro issues...the list goes on and on) so the stacked weights could easily be a problem for me. by problem I mean unable to get out of bed or lift arms/turn neck for a week.

but keep the ideas coming, I am just absorbing ideas/knowledge at this point for NEXT year.

 

[prichard]

I was thinking about something like this https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-carry-all

Steel plate bolted to bottom with receiver bolted to the plate then form with plywood and pour in concrete.

 

[Roadworthy]

I bought a commercial three point ballast box. It already had a two inch receiver attached. It even came with the retaining pin.

 

[Dmacleo]

I was thinking about something like this https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-carry-all

Steel plate bolted to bottom with receiver bolted to the plate then form with plywood and pour in concrete.

that may work thanks.

I bought a commercial three point ballast box. It already had a two inch receiver attached. It even came with the retaining pin.

I'd looked but not seen anything for class 1 stuff

 

[GeneV]

I recently got this:.
https://www.vevor.com/products/ball...op-link-pin-hitch?_pos=1&_sid=c6d26bae1&_ss=r

 

[GeneV]

Paid $255 with a coupon I found online.

 

[i7win7]

After buying/building your ballast box, a wooden stand keeps it from dumping over when you back into it

 

[Scut 4 Big Bucks]

I built a ballast box for my tractor. This barrel is over 860 lbs with 14 bags of kwik crete in it. If you built it with half the bags, you'd be at the weight you're looking for. A receiver hitch could be installed in the barrel also, concrete would secure it.

 

[Dmacleo]

I recently got this:.
https://www.vevor.com/products/ball...op-link-pin-hitch?_pos=1&_sid=c6d26bae1&_ss=r

Quick look seems just what I am looking for will look closer tomorrow when PC on. Thanks

 

[Dmacleo]

I built a ballast box for my tractor. This barrel is over 860 lbs with 14 bags of kwik crete in it. If you built it with half the bags, you'd be at the weight you're looking for. A receiver hitch could be installed in the barrel also, concrete would secure it.

I also thought about trying that but it's a bit beyond my physical capabilities now. 2 years ago I'd knock that out in no time but now... Can't be done

 

[JWR]

I recently got this:.
https://www.vevor.com/products/ball...op-link-pin-hitch?_pos=1&_sid=c6d26bae1&_ss=r

I think all the options you want to consider are in the link GeneV posted. No need to spend a lot for this purpose.

 

[JWR]

I built a ballast box for my tractor. This barrel is over 860 lbs with 14 bags of kwik crete in it. If you built it with half the bags, you'd be at the weight you're looking for. A receiver hitch could be installed in the barrel also, concrete would secure it.

That's a darn good easily made homebrew -- no welding involved. I think the OP ought to try a few trial amounts of weight before putting anything in concrete -- so to speak.

 

[KiotiKowboy]

I did the same as above - but mounted my barrel on a TractorSupply Carry-All. I also inserted 3 4" PVC tubes and a chainsaw scabbard. It's a great and CHEAP weight but also carries my shovel, rake, pick ax and chainsaw.

 

[KiotiKowboy]

Found a pic. By leaving the concrete recessed about 6 inches from the top, you can also toss lots of small tools in there. The PVC also sets below the rim so I can put a lid on the thing if I need to leave it out.

 

[lpakiz]

I have a concrete counterweight cast in the bottom half a 55 gallon barrel. I did cast a tongue into it, for pulling wagons and trailers or skidding trees. In the OPs original statement, he mentioned not having the luxury of welding. The nice thing about casting in concrete is you only need to hold the steel parts in position until the concrete sets. So he could bolt things together with small bolts or even wire the steel frame together until the concrete sets. Also, I didn't use much cement. Rather, I dumped the first bag or two of cement in the barrel, then added clean rocks, (softball to football size) as many as I could fit. I placed them, tamped them down rotated them and did everything possible to get in as many rocks as I could. This raised the level of the liquid concrete considerably. Then mix up a couple more bags and repeat. BTW, the rocks will be stronger than the concrete, but make sure they are clean, so the cement adheres to them well.
This works great, but if I did it again, I would add some improvements.
I made a framework for this kind of counterweight for a friend. I used a length of 2 1/2" square tube for a receiver hitch. I welded a piece of 1/2 or 3/4 pipe to the square tubing so it would come up flush with the top of the concrete, so he could have a long pin to retain whatever tongue he inserted into the receiver. I also suggested he cast in at least 1 piece of 4" PVC pipe, squashed slightly oval, so he could carry his chainsaw. And several 2" PVC, for an axe, a pick or shovel. He left about 3-4" of (plastic) barrel sticking above the concrete so he could carry a couple chains or other small objects ( saw file, tongs, gloves, clevis, etc) in the barrel. I also included a couple of different height tongues for log skidding, up near the top of the barrel.
If you do cast pipes in the concrete, be sure to go all the way to the bottom of the barrel so you can drill or punch a drain. In our neck of the woods, a couple inches of rainwater in the bottom of the hole will freeze and break the cement.

 

[WranglerX]

thought about something like that but really not best fit for me.
I'd really like something I can just back up to and with quick hitch hook to.
technically I am not supposed to lift over 25 lbs (I got multiple mechanical tears and injuries as well as multiple neuro issues...the list goes on and on) so the stacked weights could easily be a problem for me. by problem I mean unable to get out of bed or lift arms/turn neck for a week.

but keep the ideas coming, I am just absorbing ideas/knowledge at this point for NEXT year.

Just add weights to something like this..

 

[Dmacleo]

I think all the options you want to consider are in the link GeneV posted. No need to spend a lot for this purpose.

yeah that seems to fill all my needs easily.

 

[mgstevens]

Here's the one I got a couple of years ago. The screen shot has all the details, 'cept the red one is no longer available and the sale price is over...

That vevor link is the same unit - better price.