Can’t find a block heater for my 1739E (2020)

DP-Western NY · Dec 11, 2021

I cant find a block heater for my 1739E, I asked the dealer and they contacted AGCO and was told there isn’t one for that model, what would be a good solution. It gets very cold where I’m at and I want to use it to remove snow this winter

JWR · Dec 11, 2021

My standard answer is to use the radiator hose insertion type. They are made to use in the lower radiator hose of most vehicles but are not specifically made for tractors per se. I have used them on VW diesels. The main feature is that this type circulates hot water through the entire cooling system, thus warming the block, the heads, indirectly the injection pump, all of it. Some smaller Kubota owners have said they just cannot fit these in the lower radiator hose. Have not heard anything specific about the MF 1739. You'll just have to look-see. I can't think of any reason not to install them in the top radiator hose which is often easier to get to and has more space around it. Worst case it may take some cut-and-try to see if it works well & look into keeping the thermostat open if it isn't. I did not have to mess with the thermostat on the VWs. The manufacturer selling the heater should elaborate in the instructions supplied with it.

PILOON · Dec 11, 2021

All engine blocks usually have 'frost plugs', (metal disks that plug casting holes).
You measure the opening and order suitable block heater.

Then there are inline heaters that are spliced into radiator hose lines that also work well.
You cut the return line from the radiator and install this type of unit.

Other items exist like heated dip sticks and magnetic heaters but I don't like either of them.
(I once installed 2 mag units and I determined they mainly heated the air and not the engine.)

The best and ideal unit is one that simply screws into a designated area of the engine block if the factory planned for it.
All 'frost plug' and hose types require draining of coolant in order to install them, a bit messy but efficient.
Usually U want something in the 400 watt range.

JWR · Dec 11, 2021

Mostly agree with Piloon except: The hose types do not require much draining of coolant of installed in the top hose.

seville009 · Dec 11, 2021

I have a MF1540 without a block heater (or any heater) in Central NY. Never had any issues starting it in sub zero temps.

Just make sure your battery is good (keep a jumper box charged up if you don't) and let it warm up prior to using it.

Nothing wrong with getting anf using a heater; just saying don't worry if you don't. You will be fine.

lpakiz · Dec 11, 2021

You can't just "measure the frost plug diameter" and "buy one that fits."
There's several variations for each diameter, depending on the length, thickness, and angle of the element, which is determined by how your block was cast. Some elements even have a bend in them, to accommodate the internal structure of the block.
You need to get a frost plug heater specifically designed for your block, and it sounds like there is not one for that block.
Lower hose heater may work, but putting it in the upper hose will not. Hot water rises, and that's how these heaters circulate the heated water.

Dmacleo · Dec 11, 2021

prob doesn't help OP a lot but I am in central maine and often deal with single/- temps.
I have block heater in my gc2400 but only used once.
I DO have a battery maintainer attached to tractor battery and that is ALWAYS plugged in, this makes a huge difference in starting.

JWR · Dec 11, 2021

lpakiz said:
You can't just "measure the frost plug diameter" and "buy one that fits."
There's several variations for each diameter, depending on the length, thickness, and angle of the element, which is determined by how your block was cast. Some elements even have a bend in them, to accommodate the internal structure of the block.
You need to get a frost plug heater specifically designed for your block, and it sounds like there is not one for that block.
Lower hose heater may work, but putting it in the upper hose will not. Hot water rises, and that's how these heaters circulate the heated water.

I thought some of the hose type heaters had a crude circulation pump built in and not dependent on convection. (??)

PILOON · Dec 11, 2021

Dmacleo said:
prob doesn't help OP a lot but I am in central maine and often deal with single/- temps.
I have block heater in my gc2400 but only used once.
I DO have a battery maintainer attached to tractor battery and that is ALWAYS plugged in, this makes a huge difference in starting.

Great minds think alike!
But north of Montreal is colder and in a snow belt.
I also have an 'intelligent maintainer' plugged in 24/24 (as I also do on my standby generator*).
Cheap insurance in my opinion.

*We are at the end of a power grid and experience all too many outages.
Otherwise we are in paradise and would not wish to move.

PILOON · Dec 11, 2021

JWR said:
I thought some of the hose type heaters had a crude circulation pump built in and not dependent on convection. (??)

Yep, they have a sort of check valve and sort of burp as they get hotter thus circulating heated 'coolant' burp by burp.

ruffdog · Dec 11, 2021

I looked here and didn't notice the tractor model listed either:

Heaters by Kat's

JWR · Dec 11, 2021

The

HVACSTAR TPS151GT10-000 590-893 Engine Block Heater 1500 Watt 120 Volt 1500W 120V Option 100-120F on Amazon

was designed for connecting into heater hoses (apparently) . It uses internal heating with no moving parts to circulate the water. With 1500 watts you'd have some serious heat to put forth and would not need to run it all night. NAPA sell ones similar labeled Part #: KAT 13100 Line: KATS Engine Heaters.
Adaptable ?

ROUSTABOUT · Dec 11, 2021

If that tractor comes with a cab, whether you have a cab or not, should have a place for heater hoses. You can get a heater for a heater hose. I would loop it down low. Heat rises and cool sinks, so circulates. Throw a blanket over the hood helps. I'm sure if you look in a freeze plug hole you can get a block heater. All of them I've seen are short in length. I put two in mine and a hose heater. Cranking an engine cold is where the wear happens.

JWR · Dec 11, 2021

ROUSTABOUT said:
If that tractor comes with a cab, whether you have a cab or not, should have a place for heater hoses. You can get a heater for a heater hose. I would loop it down low. Heat rises and cool sinks, so circulates. Throw a blanket over the hood helps. I'm sure if you look in a freeze plug hole you can get a block heater. All of them I've seen are short in length. I put two in mine and a hose heater. Cranking an engine cold is where the wear happens.

Great point -- if it is a cab model just tap in to the heater hoses. And surely as you say there must be provision for connection heater hoses which should be perfect for one of those self-circulating 1500 watt (some are 1000 watt) heaters I mentioned in post #12.

Not to be argumentative at all but I've read several places "Cranking an engine cold is where the wear happens." I do not believe it. There is of course no way to prove it one way or the other. My thinking is that 1) Whatever oil is in there lubes better cold than it does hot. 2) Clearances should be slightly greater cold than hot. Steel too but Esp where any aluminum is involved. 3) Cranking is such a tiny % of total revolutions in the life of an engine -- negligibly small -- that I do not see that being a significant wear factor. My opinion of course but those are my reasons.

mapper · Dec 11, 2021

You might try an end around by going directly to the engine manufacturer or other brands that use the same engine. The 17xx E series uses a shibura engine rather than iseki that is used on most of the MF CUTs.

ROUSTABOUT · Dec 11, 2021

JWR said:
Great point -- if it is a cab model just tap in to the heater hoses. And surely as you say there must be provision for connection heater hoses which should be perfect for one of those self-circulating 1500 watt (some are 1000 watt) heaters I mentioned in post #12.

Not to be argumentative at all but I've read several places "Cranking an engine cold is where the wear happens." I do not believe it. There is of course no way to prove it one way or the other. My thinking is that 1) Whatever oil is in there lubes better cold than it does hot. 2) Clearances should be slightly greater cold than hot. Steel too but Esp where any aluminum is involved. 3) Cranking is such a tiny % of total revolutions in the life of an engine -- negligibly small -- that I do not see that being a significant wear factor. My opinion of course but those are my reasons.

I was asking an old family member about that. I knew where an engine was that rarely was started, but ran a lot when it was running. He said when he was installing that engine, he had his truck door open and the radio was on. News flash came on that said Kennedy had been shot. Engine is still there.

Dmacleo · Dec 12, 2021

PILOON said:
Great minds think alike!
But north of Montreal is colder and in a snow belt.
I also have an 'intelligent maintainer' plugged in 24/24 (as I also do on my standby generator*).
Cheap insurance in my opinion.

*We are at the end of a power grid and experience all too many outages.
Otherwise we are in paradise and would not wish to move.

I built a 2 outlet pigtail you can see tender plugged in and heater unplugged. I also use end covers on the 2 items to protect plugs.

RustyA · Dec 12, 2021

If you can't figure out a block heater here is a suggestion ...engine oil pan heater that glues to pan plus battery warming blanket wired together. Warm oil and warm battery makes a huge difference below zero. Full synthetic 5w40 will also help immensely.