Backblade upgrade!

   / Backblade upgrade! #31  
Tractor is a 35hp, blade is 7’ wide. I’m noting the conversations about snagging the blade. Thank you for the warning!
7' would be even worse as far as the numbers are concerned.

If your cylinder is pinned at 8" from the kingpin as it looks like, that translates to a 5.25:1 leverage ratio the blade has over the cylinder. Further amplifying the pressure the cylinder and hoses will see if you snag something.

I dont like putting down anyones work or fab jobs. Thats not my intent. Just want to give you a heads up of what can potentially happen. Your machine is MORE than capable of ruining your setup if you are not careful
 
   / Backblade upgrade! #32  
Only one of the TSC restrictor fittings I linked to is needed for a double-acting cylinder, since the fluid must flow through the fixed, pin-size orifice in either directions, retraction and extension. It can be installed on either hose for the same reason. BUT, I think best practice is to put it on the hose leading to the cylinder end (closed end), rather than the rod end. This, because of some concern that excessive forces pulling on the rod end (e.g. forces from grading at an angle in this case) might induce a vacuum that pulls air past the gland seal at the cylinder end, into the cylinder as the fluid tries to exit at the rod end faster than it can enter at the cylinder end. Putting a restrictor fitting on each hose obviates this risk, as minimal and theoretical as it may be. The TSC fittings are cheap enough to just do that. :)

BTW, the same reasoning applies to using fixed-orifice flow restrictor fittings to slow down cylinder response on hydraulic toplink and sidelink (top 'n tilt) cylinders. Slowing the response makes fine adjustments easier there too.

Thanks for the information!
 
   / Backblade upgrade! #33  
I once needed a restrictor but none available locally.
SO, I brazed a fitting and then drilled a small (3/32" ?) hole thru the brazing.
Worked just fine (and no hose altering needed).
I started small since I could always enlarge if too slow.
 
   / Backblade upgrade! #35  
Here's my version. Blain's 2x8 cylinder $75 misc. hoses, fittings, crossover relief from Summit Hydraulics $200.

My blade was a factory reject. The jackwagon that welded the holey plate to the kingpin welded it about 10 degrees off. When I put the pin in the middle hole the blade was not perpendicular to the direction of travel so the cylinder was the better solution than cutting the plate off and re-welding it on in the proper alignment. Plus, I can move it from the tractor seat!
 

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   / Backblade upgrade! #36  
Tractor is a 35hp, blade is 7’ wide. I’m noting the conversations about snagging the blade. Thank you for the warning!
If I were doing ditching work where a large load might be put on the cutting end I would position the blade and then pin it.
 
   / Backblade upgrade! #37  
If I were doing ditching work where a large load might be put on the cutting end I would position the blade and then pin it.
That would be a good solution for more demanding work
 
   / Backblade upgrade! #38  
Great detail Mr. LD1!

If I am following the logic...

The potential for stress on the cylinder is reduced as the cylinder mount point on the blade is moved farther out toward the end of the blade.
 
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   / Backblade upgrade!
  • Thread Starter
#39  
If I were doing ditching work where a large load might be put on the cutting end I would position the blade and then pin it.

I would too! I don’t have any ditches to maintain. It’s mainly used for snow removal. Just spent 2 hours plowing (my place and a widower’s) and it’s been immensely helpful.
 
   / Backblade upgrade! #40  
Just a suggestion, but if you position the bolt, to which the rod end of the cylinder attaches, just close enough to the center of the blade pivot so that the cylinder doesn't run out of stroke before the blade rotates to the 90 degree position, you can reverse the blade without getting off the tractor. The momentum of the rotating blade will carry it past 90 degrees and then simply reverse the hydraulic valve lever to continue the rotation to 180 degrees or whatever. I set one up this way several years ago.
 

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