Rim guard or not? Why a ballast box instead of boxblade?

[WranglerX]

Good post just be careful your frame is heavy enough so you don't split your tractor in the middle which I have seen

Loader specs state 870 Pound lift capability at pivot points, and 580 pound at 20 inches in front of pivot point.... I'm sure tractor frame and loader dimension are within safe operating specs as to not damage tractor.... Frame rails are folded steel and I'm sure it will bend long before it breaks or tears away from HST...

 

[HAR]

Good post just be careful your frame is heavy enough so you don't split your tractor in the middle which I have seen

That was my first thought when I saw that photo

 

[jedjoe]

I have had rimguard on my tractor since I bought it in 2003. It has had no impact whatsoever on my rear tires (now coming up on 19 years). Not sure why you would NOT want to have it installed. Okay, it adds rear weight when perhaps not necessary, but for most people, that is rarely a problem and greatly offset by the value of the rear weight without attachments. To be fair, I rarely detach my FEL, so that front weight (even without a load in it) balances things nicely.

 

[Paul in TN]

I use rear cutter for ballast. It’s easy to remove and besides it keeps others from using the tractor because it’s hard to maneuver.

 

[quarencia]

The primary purpose of ballast is to increase lateral stability. (prevent sideways tipping i.e. roll over). Tractors have a high center of gravity to start with and it’s only worse with a loader. Rear ballast (filled tires and/or three point weights) accomplish this by keeping the rear tires on the ground AND by lowering & centralizing the CG. Keeping the rear tires down is important because most tractors have pivoting front axles that provide no lateral stability. But even with the rear tires firmly planted, a high load on uneven ground or when cornering can easily tip a tractor with insufficient rear ballast. A good rear ballast should lower the CG and maximize lateral stability. In engineering speak this is increasing the lateral moment of inertia. To do this, weight should be as low and as close to the centerline of the tractor as possible. This is why a ballast box is better than a box blade. A box blade distributes the weight over a long distance across the back of the tractor with a significant portion outside the rear tires. Assuming the center of weight is the same distance behind the tractor and at the same height, a tractor with a 300# ballast box is more stable than a tractor with a 300# box blade.

Pound for pound, the ballast box is more stable and safer than a box blade. I’m not saying using a box blade (or any other implement) is unsafe. Just comparing the relative safety of the two.

 

[Whitetail62]

I see a lot of people buying 3 point ballast boxes or making ballast containers out of drums to attach to their 3 point hitch.

I have never really grasped why not just keep a box blade on the back so you could have not just a weight, but something that can be used should you wish to drag something? I have seen some weld a section of railroad rail onto the top of a box blade to make it heavier.

Also, rimguard is something I have considered, but I am also not sure about this because it seems I can do everything I need to do without rimguard and it will just increase the amount of weight when I trailer the tractor or perhaps increase ruts when on soft lawns.. I have thought rimguard would be good when using my ditch bank flail mower, but so far, I haven't found myself in any situation I would consider to have been tippy.

So, is there anyone here that added rimguard to their tires and regretted it?

I made a cheap counterbalance out of an old 55 gallon drum. I just drilled a hole through it to accommodate an old drawbar I wasn’t using anymore to attach the 3 point arms to and stuck a couple of pieces of angle iron in the top to attach the top link to. Filled it with concrete and I haven’t lost much maneuverability as far a tail swing, plus plenty of grab in the rear tires if you need to push brush or trees. I haven’t had to fill my tires so far.

 

[Gord Baker]

View attachment 726394
Sometimes an implement striking objects behind you can distract you in dangerous operations/situations

 

[FERLING]

A box blade really isn’t heavy enough for sufficient ballast on its own without liquid tires or iron weights.

8 foot box blade usually does a good job if your tractor can handle it. If your loader has enough power to pickup rear of tractor with 8 ft box blade you may be overloading your front axle on a four wheel drive tractor. 8 ft box blade with loaded rear tires offsets front loader NH621 on Workmaster 50. When the rear wheels loose traction you are stressing equipment, as well as operator to the limit.
Eample: Forks loaded to maximum and going down a hill. You find out what your front axle is made of plus how much your britches will hold. You will only do that once in your life.

 

[jedjoe]

an excellent point quarencia

 

[RoyJackson]

I have had rimguard on my tractor since I bought it in 2003. It has had no impact whatsoever on my rear tires (now coming up on 19 years). Not sure why you would NOT want to have it installed. Okay, it adds rear weight when perhaps not necessary, but for most people, that is rarely a problem and greatly offset by the value of the rear weight without attachments. To be fair, I rarely detach my FEL, so that front weight (even without a load in it) balances things nicely.

Main thing, filled tires add stability to an inherently unstable machine.
All my tractors have had filled tires, but for stability, not as counterweight