Truck snowplow on tractor front 3 point

[leonz]

They get rid of the hanging ice and snow shelves above the access road using a small dozer.

 

[PILOON]

Ya... Just look at pictures of that truck a few posts up to see why a trip edge or blade is something you need. It's really good to have for slow speed plowing, but critical got faster plowing.

I once owned a Deere that had encountered a sidewalk curb (not by me).
The right loader arm showed some serious repairs due to a curb encounter at speed.

It was a large cumbersome rig, had blower and FEL and cabbed but was only 2 WD so my hills were problematic even with chains.
Also big for tight spots.
LOL, no PS so I had to raise the front with FEL to make tight turns.
I traded for a 4 x 4 CUT that has served me well for 12 years, and counting.

 

[PILOON]

I get goosebumps watching videos from a guy in Austria doing snow removal with tractors. Mountain on one side, cliff drop into the valley without guardrails in many shots. Many at night so all you see is a black abyss in front of the tractor.

We don't have those steep hills but lots of snow in the lower Laurentians snow belt area.
Consequently my CUT's rear blower sports 4 ft drift cutters that often are real handy.

 

[Fallon]

It’s what they are calling a general purpose blade. Can be used for snow, silage, stone, dirt, but not excavation.
Has hydraulic cushion valve if blade corners hit an immovable object

I wouldn't do it. Sounds to me like either a cheap plow being advertised as doing everything or one for avery specific task that lacks features designed to protect your equipment under normal snow work conditions.

A cushion valve will let the front corner of a plow get pushed back if it hits an immovable object. But it can do nothing if you hit that immovable object with the trailing side of the plow.

A trip edge or trip mouldboard lets the cutting edge or whole plow bade kick back out of the way on that immovable object.

The classic snow example would be a curb. If you had your plow angled to the right & caught a curb with the right side a cushion valve could do nothing. You'd likely tweak your plow or mounting frame if you were at any speed. If the plow was straight or angled left the cushion valve would likely trip & let the plow pivot to the right. Which would help minimize some of the impact, possibly preventing damage.

If you had a trip edge & had your plow straight or angled to the right things wouldn't likely be as bad. The trip edge would trip & the back end of the plow would rotate back. The plow would act as an inverted ramp. The plow & front of the tractor would get lifted up a bit, depending on how it was mounted. Big bang, pile of snow dropped by the plow, probably some damaged underware, but likely no damage to the plow or mount.

I trip mine every so often. Usually at slow speed against hard frozen snow or frozen dirt. It makes a huge racket as it bangs around but makes you appreciate dealing with the noise as compared to a twisted loader (or other mount).

 

[Hay Dude]

I wouldn't do it. Sounds to me like either a cheap plow being advertised as doing everything or one for avery specific task that lacks features designed to protect your equipment under normal snow work conditions.

A cushion valve will let the front corner of a plow get pushed back if it hits an immovable object. But it can do nothing if you hit that immovable object with the trailing side of the plow.

A trip edge or trip mouldboard lets the cutting edge or whole plow bade kick back out of the way on that immovable object.

The classic snow example would be a curb. If you had your plow angled to the right & caught a curb with the right side a cushion valve could do nothing. You'd likely tweak your plow or mounting frame if you were at any speed. If the plow was straight or angled left the cushion valve would likely trip & let the plow pivot to the right. Which would help minimize some of the impact, possibly preventing damage.

If you had a trip edge & had your plow straight or angled to the right things wouldn't likely be as bad. The trip edge would trip & the back end of the plow would rotate back. The plow would act as an inverted ramp. The plow & front of the tractor would get lifted up a bit, depending on how it was mounted. Big bang, pile of snow dropped by the plow, probably some damaged underware, but likely no damage to the plow or mount.

I trip mine every so often. Usually at slow speed against hard frozen snow or frozen dirt. It makes a huge racket as it bangs around but makes you appreciate dealing with the noise as compared to a twisted loader (or other mount).

Yeah, I run a trip edge Artic on my small tractor and it has protected me a few times.
I’m just a bit surprised how little there is available for a front 3 point.
I guess it’s going to have to be a truck plow fabricated into a 3 point.

 

[Fxfymn413]

If you had a trip edge & had your plow straight or angled to the right things wouldn't likely be as bad.

That is why I prefer a Fisher plow over a Meyer that tips the whole blade forward. Plus if you are stacking snow with the blade the Fisher will not lean forward and allow the snow to fall on the blade and trap it as a Meyer will. Having said that I use a Meyer blade because that is what I found on the used market and outside of New England and NY you just don't see many Fisher set ups.

 

[oldpilot]

I have a WorkSaver plow on my Mahindra Baba. It cost a fortune and in the first winter (last winter) one of the skid shoes broke and WorkSaver said the dealer would have to deal with it. So what's a warranty worth? I had to take the broken thing 20 miles to the dealer and wait a few days while they welded it up. Damn. Then one of the pins broke that secure it from flopping around. This time the dealer fabricated a replacement and the salesman came over and installed it for me. Okay: good dealer (Chappell in Brentwood NH) but WorkSaver is a POS.

>"If haying was easy, everyone would do it. It isn't."

My first job was haying on a rich man's "farm" in Concord MA: summer of 1942 @ 25 cents an hour, 1943 @ 30 cents, 1944 @ 35 cents. I was the littlest kid, so I got to walk the top of the wagon, catching the hay off the other guys' forks and tromping it down. Then back at the barn I got to pass it up to the other guys in the loft. The gimmick of course was that Mister XXXX got a farmer's ration sticker for his 1940 Lincoln Continental with its 12-cylinder engine, plus the Allis Chalmers tractor got an unlimited supply.

The other kids were tough lads from Boston who came out for the summer and lived in an old CCC barrack.

There were some genuine farms on Monument Street. One of them had a tractor with cleated steel wheels and a hand-crank to start. One day it started on a backfire and had three speeds in reverse, one speed forward. (Or were they lying to me?)

 

[Paul Kingsbury Grading]

No spring release on the edge? Low speed plowing?

That blade is designed for pushing silage on the farm. Very low speed. Good catch!

 

[Hay Dude]

That is why I prefer a Fisher plow over a Meyer that tips the whole blade forward. Plus if you are stacking snow with the blade the Fisher will not lean forward and allow the snow to fall on the blade and trap it as a Meyer will. Having said that I use a Meyer blade because that is what I found on the used market and outside of New England and NY you just don't see many Fisher set ups.

My Arctic is a trip edge. I have always liked trip edge plows

 

[Fxfymn413]

One day it started on a backfire and had three speeds in reverse, one speed forward. (Or were they lying to me?)

When I was learning to drive a tiller truck equipped with a 6-71 Detroit I managed to get it running backwards when I let it drift backwards on a hill and I let the clutch out too quickly after I stalled it. Forward gear does become reverse and you put down quite a smoke screen as well.

 

[Hay Dude]

Not having any luck finding larger 9-10’ trip edge plows.
I have found (2) different Western Heavyweight plows. They are fairly priced, but they are moldboard trip.
I think for what I am doing they would be serviceable (development roads).

One is 9’ for $1,000

Other is 10’ for $500. Paint pretty faded, frame is rust haze.

Both have good cutting edges. 10’ has wheels, which I kind of like.
Im leaning towards the 10’ because it’s bigger and closer distance (80 miles). The other is 150 miles, but a little prettier. It’s also 1/2 the cost.
I don’t think the 9’ angled, will cover my tracks

 

[Rustyiron]

For $500 if you get a year out of it you'll still be way ahead.
The added width (10') I would think of as a minimum especially for your tractor and plowing developments.
This would get you in business pretty cheaply and if you decide it's not for you or help any future plow upgrade decisions.
I'd dream up a mounting for your front 3pt. that would work with any truck plow. This would always have value to someone else if you jump out.

 

[Hay Dude]

Me too. Was thinking of a sub-frame that transfers truck plow to a 3 point hitch.
I already have a SSQA plow with a trip edge for my Kubotas. It can be adapted to a 3 point, but its a little small for a 200HP Massey.

I‘m already in the plowing business 30 years. I was given a possible opportunity to be the “road man” in a large development as a sub for a large landscaper.
Currently doing farm driveways and a few residential driveways with my Kubota and Arctic plow set up.
The Massey/Western Heavyweight set up could also be a backup for the Kubota.

 

[Rustyiron]

Silly me thinking that you were new to plowing
I think a simple triangular or inverted T would be simple enough to build, catching your 2 lower pins and top link. The bottom obviously being where the push plate that accepts the 2 "ears" on the plow.
Were you thinking of a rigid setup - raising the plow with the 3pt?

 

[ddbackhoe]

Got asked if I want to clear main roads in a development.
Anyone have a typical truck snowplow adapted to a tractor with a front 3 point?
I already have a plow attached to a loader on a tractor.
This would be farm tractor with front 3 point below.
Have hydraulics up front for power angling.
Thought a Western Heavyweight 9-10’ would be perfect

View attachment 724729

already have this Kubota with loader
and snowplow
View attachment 724732

This would be real expensive, but would be amazing to plow with.
View attachment 724734

Cant help but think you would be better off removing the lift arms and dabbing up a “mount” to make the plow like the 3rd pic. Even though the lift arms are substantial, I got a bad feeling they wil end up pretzel shaped.

 

[Hay Dude]

Cant help but think you would be better off removing the lift arms and dabbing up a “mount” to make the plow like the 3rd pic. Even though the lift arms are substantial, I got a bad feeling they wil end up pretzel shaped.

Assume you mean the lower lift arms on my front 3 point?
Not worried about them. They already handle a very heavy 11’ front hay mower easily. Much heavier built than the ones in the 3rd pic. I think they’re 1&1/4” thick.

I do like the trip edge on the Deleks plows

 

[RoyJackson]

This almost the default way to do it, for heavy duty, fast plowing it often a subframe that is attached all the way to the back of the tractor, but many uses the front three point.

I've seen a number of YouTube vids of tractors plowing snow in Europe. Considering how fast they're moving, they must have a pretty tall road gear

 

[Hay Dude]

I've seen a number of YouTube vids of tractors plowing snow in Europe. Considering how fast they're moving, they must have a pretty tall road gear

The Massey will do 35MPH, but I rarely get up to that speed.

 

[Agvg]

We have four classes of tractors, max 20 km/h, no registration, don't think you must have a licens, two wheels tractors and microtractors are in this class, max 30km/h, must be registered and the driver must have license, 40km/h, must have all wheel braking but you can use the 4WD system to brake the front wheels, 50km/h + must have a much better braking system, individual brake system front and rear and it must have a real brake and suspension on the front axle.

There are more difference but this is the main.

If you pull a trailer over 4 T it must have brakes, the usual solutions is a hydraulic brake valve and two small cylinders on the brake aktuator, is run from the main hydraulic on the tractor, 50km/h its ordinary air brakes as a truck, some still uses hydraulic i belive but air is more and more common.

The cost and driver license demand is a bit more steep on 50km/h so many stops with 40.
30km/h is very uncommon on new tractors as driving on the road is a very common way to use tractors farm or no farm.

 

[Agvg]

A small and nice 50km/h trailer, 20T pay load.