dodge man
Super Star Member
I’ve had a tractor now for about 12 years with rimguard in the tires. Keeping my fingers crossed I’ve never had a leak in the rear tires.
20 years with Calcium Chloride in my rear tires. Not single problem yet. Rimguard was not available n my area when I bought the tractor, but when I need to replace the tires, I'll go with Rimguard.I’ve had a tractor now for about 12 years with rimguard in the tires. Keeping my fingers crossed I’ve never had a leak in the rear tires.
Not to mention that your 3ph is useless when a backhoe is installed. And removal isn’t something that you do in 5 minutes.A backhoe is expensive, and frankly not something I could justify being I can rent a much better trackhow for a tiny percentage of what a backhoe would cost. And renting one doesn't stress my tractor.
I don’t know how long it takes, but I do know that CaCl will rust your rims eventually. Other non-corrosive options besides rimguard are bio-ballast, methanol and water, anti-freeze and water, window washing fluid. My dealer installed bio-ballast in my tires before delivery.20 years with Calcium Chloride in my rear tires. Not single problem yet. Rimguard was not available n my area when I bought the tractor, but when I need to replace the tires, I'll go with Rimguard.
Filled tires provide the bulk of the ballast below COG. Any heavy implement or box on the rear finishes the job.I disagree. A box blade is centered laterally on the rear of the tractor. The stabilizing force of the weight of the box blade behaves exactly the same as if all of the weight were concentrated where the center of gravity of the boxblade is (which would be centered left and right, assuming the boxblade is symmetrical).
Whether a boxblade or a ballast box does more for lateral stability depends on how low that weight is carried to the ground. A tall ballast box with a lot of weight up high (or a boxblade carried as high as the 3 point will lift it) does less for stability than a setup in which the weight is kept low.
I really wasn't suggesting that someone buy and install a backhoe for ballast. I just remarked that a backhoe has the capability of providing plenty of ballast. My post was "tongue in cheek" as noted.I don’t know how long it takes, but I do know that CaCl will rust your rims eventually. Other non-corrosive options besides rimguard are bio-ballast, methanol and water, anti-freeze and water, window washing fluid. My dealer installed bio-ballast in my tires before delivery.
Took mine 27 yrs to do so. (w tubes) Two dime size holes in the rim. Tigged them up, painted the rims w bridge paint and off I went.I don’t know how long it takes, but I do know that CaCl will rust your rims eventually. Other non-corrosive options besides rimguard are bio-ballast, methanol and water, anti-freeze and water, window washing fluid. My dealer installed bio-ballast in my tires before delivery.
I do agree with you, but, as others have noted, it also depends on if the tires are tube or tubeless. Tube tire rims will last longer because the fluid "should be" contained in the tube and not actively touching the metal rims.I don’t know how long it takes, but I do know that CaCl will rust your rims eventually. Other non-corrosive options besides rimguard are bio-ballast, methanol and water, anti-freeze and water, window washing fluid. My dealer installed bio-ballast in my tires before delivery.
At least until the tube statrs leaking, then the rims will rust faster than a tubeless setup, since leaking tubes allow exposure to both CaCl and air, whereas properly filled tubeless, the rims don't see air (or don't see much of it).I do agree with you, but, as others have noted, it also depends on if the tires are tube or tubeless. Tube tire rims will last longer because the fluid "should be" contained in the tube and not actively touching the metal rims.