How to tap into propane (iron pipe) line

   / How to tap into propane (iron pipe) line #1  

plowhog

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Dec 8, 2015
Messages
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Location
North. NV, North. CA
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Massey 1710 / 1758, Ventrac 4500Y / TD9
I'm installing a new propane-based whole house generator. It will install outdoors where an old spa heater used to be. I need to redo the existing gas pipe T, add 3-4 feet of 3/4" black iron pipe extending toward the generator, and add a new shutoff valve. Then attach the 3/4" flex line that was shipped with the generator.

Couple of questions:

1. Should I use gas rated pipe dope on the threads instead of yellow gas tape?
2. When I extend the gas pipe, it will be unsupported. What is a recommended way, and what materials, are used for support?
3. I presume a drip leg is needed. (None present for the spa heater.) Do you use a standard T with a nipple (4"?) pointing down?
4. Where do you install the fitting to allow for a pressure test? Does that require another T, and does that test device stay in the system permanently? (I read you should pressurize with air to 25 lbs for 24 hours to check for leaks?)
5. Do you pressure test all of the pipe including back to the tank and to the water heater? I presume I should test all of it since I have to undo/redo fittings "upstream" of the shutoff to the generator.
6. After a successful pressure test, what is the process to bring in the gas to fire up the generator and re-fire the water heater?

I've never done gas pipe work before, so anything you can contribute will be appreciated. Thanks!
 
   / How to tap into propane (iron pipe) line #2  
Those generators usually require larger diameter pipe than 3/4 to work. Have you looked at a load vs length chart to verify your plan will work?
 
   / How to tap into propane (iron pipe) line #3  
I'm installing a new propane-based whole house generator. It will install outdoors where an old spa heater used to be. I need to redo the existing gas pipe T, add 3-4 feet of 3/4" black iron pipe extending toward the generator, and add a new shutoff valve. Then attach the 3/4" flex line that was shipped with the generator.

Couple of questions:

1. Should I use gas rated pipe dope on the threads instead of yellow gas tape?
2. When I extend the gas pipe, it will be unsupported. What is a recommended way, and what materials, are used for support?
3. I presume a drip leg is needed. (None present for the spa heater.) Do you use a standard T with a nipple (4"?) pointing down?
4. Where do you install the fitting to allow for a pressure test? Does that require another T, and does that test device stay in the system permanently? (I read you should pressurize with air to 25 lbs for 24 hours to check for leaks?)
5. Do you pressure test all of the pipe including back to the tank and to the water heater? I presume I should test all of it since I have to undo/redo fittings "upstream" of the shutoff to the generator.
6. After a successful pressure test, what is the process to bring in the gas to fire up the generator and re-fire the water heater?

I've never done gas pipe work before, so anything you can contribute will be appreciated. Thanks!
Gas pipe work is supposed to be done by a plumber licensed for gas. Of course other people do this, but by code it must be a licensed plumber.
 
   / How to tap into propane (iron pipe) line
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Have you looked at a load vs length chart to verify your plan will work?
I have not. I did investigate BTU's. The spa heater required about 90,000 btu's. The generator requires about half of that. I don't know how to evaluate that any further.

I do have access to a manometer and there is a manometer port on the generator.
 
Last edited:
   / How to tap into propane (iron pipe) line #5  
Gas pipe work is supposed to be done by a plumber licensed for gas. Of course other people do this, but by code it must be a licensed plumber.
Licensed plumber is not a code requirement, anyone is permitted to work on their own home.
 
   / How to tap into propane (iron pipe) line
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Licensed plumber is not a code requirement, anyone is permitted to work on their own home.
That is my understanding. Homeowner can do the work as long as the proper permit is pulled an inspection passed.
 
   / How to tap into propane (iron pipe) line #7  
Licensed plumber is not a code requirement, anyone is permitted to work on their own home.
Is a requirement for permit installation of water heaters and furnaces. Sure, people can do this themselves without a permit. But sometimes this bites you if you sell your home and must disclose this. Yes, I know many do these things: they are still not legal by code.
 
   / How to tap into propane (iron pipe) line #8  
That is my understanding. Homeowner can do the work as long as the proper permit is pulled an inspection passed.
100% correct.

A drip leg is generally required if a low point is created within the connection to the equipment. A 5 pound test is generally acceptable on low pressure systems like gas and you should be able to find a plugged port near the tank connection for a test. I generally test about an hour for my purposes and leave the gauge at 5 psi for the inspector.

Does the line continue past the tie-in point and can it be pulled apart so a new tee can be installed without a union.
 
   / How to tap into propane (iron pipe) line #9  
Is a requirement for permit installation of water heaters and furnaces. Sure, people can do this themselves without a permit. But sometimes this bites you if you sell your home and must disclose this. Yes, I know many do these things: they are still not legal by code.
Any homeowner can walk into their local building department and pull a permit to work on their own property, a license is not required, check it out.






































































Any homeowner can walk into their local building dept and pull a permit for their own house
 
   / How to tap into propane (iron pipe) line #10  
As said, determine the correct pipe size, it may be bigger than you think. Accredited installers have this information.

Though I have done my own propane hook up, it was entirely planned, supervised, and inspected before the final source connection was made. I know for certain ('cause i researched it) that different jurisdictions have different rules. What I can say, having had a very unhappy shop fire last summer (entirely unrelated to propane at all) that in the case of an insurance claim, a lot of questions get asked, and paperwork reviewed. All of the facts of my situation were as they should be, and I had the paperwork to back it up, insurance was 100% excellent with me. But, at a very stressful time, I would not have been wanting to worry about the insurance claim being paid or not, because I had saved a few bucks on a propane hook up. Employ a fellow citizen, who's certified to do the work. Hopefully, you'll never need to be truly happy you did, but just in case!
 

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