Tractor quit and won't start

[DonRybak]

BakoJ, I agree with those that think it's electrical. Regardless if it's getting fuel it should still turn over. Just wouldn't start. And electrical is the only thing I see that would affect the dash display. Interested to see what the outcome is on this.......

 

[Ewcmr2]

PTO lever safety?

 

[BakoJ]

I had some time today to troubleshoot. I was able to solve my issue. I tracked down an owner's manual and checked out the electrical section. I located the fuse box behind the black, cosmetic panel on the left side. There's a catastrophic 60 amp fuse before the starter. Then there's a small fuse box. I checked all of the fuses and one, 10 amp "con/switch" fuse was blown. I replaced it and the tractor started right up.

I still have a small leak underneath the engine and it continues at a drop per minute while running and immediately afterwards. At least I'll be able to move it.

Thanks to everyone for your help and suggestions. All of your input will serve me well as I continue my rural journey. View attachment 730070View attachment 730069

View attachment 730072

 

[BakoJ]

Since multiple photos won't seem to upload, here's photo of the fuse box location.

 

[PCABE5]

I was just looking at your thread and owner's manual. I was going to have you check F1, F2, and F5 fuses. What you found was the F2 fuse blown for the controller and switch.

That controller would be on the right side of the dash somewhere behind the key switch and to the right. That should act as a master controller for all the safety switches and inputs. Without it the ECU should not get the start command from the controller.

 

[kormidoit]

Terrific....Now, why did it blow ??

 

[BakoJ]

Terrific....Now, why did it blow ??

Good question. I don't see any damage to wiring harnesses. I don't feel like we overloaded anything. It was idling when it quit.

 

[Bearsixty7]

Terrific....Now, why did it blow ??

It happens sometimes. Fuses like many things have a tolerance and that 10A may have actually only been good for 7-8A and the circuit may have required all 9Amps at one moment. I don't usually worry about 1 fuse being blown. Now obviously if it blows again in a few days or weeks, further investigation and troubleshooting will be needed.

 

[MAX-24-Dean]

I had some time today to troubleshoot. I was able to solve my issue. I tracked down an owner's manual and checked out the electrical section. I located the fuse box behind the black, cosmetic panel on the left side. There's a catastrophic 60 amp fuse before the starter. Then there's a small fuse box. I checked all of the fuses and one, 10 amp "con/switch" fuse was blown. I replaced it and the tractor started right up.

I still have a small leak underneath the engine and it continues at a drop per minute while running and immediately afterwards. At least I'll be able to move it.

Thanks to everyone for your help and suggestions. All of your input will serve me well as I continue my rural journey. View attachment 730070View attachment 730069View attachment 730071
View attachment 730072

Glad you got this figured out. Thank you for posting the solution to the problem, it helps us all.

 

[rodneyn]

Glad you got this figured out. Thank you for posting the solution to the problem, it helps us all.

If you continue to blow fuses look for worn wiring insulation. It appears the wiring harnesses on these Korean tractors are manufactured by the cheapest supplier. May not adhere to wire insulation specifications we take for granted in the good old USA. Same for fuses there are different grades of fuses that can be used. That is an ISO standard on fuses practiced globally.