Forum for air cooled diesel engines and clones

[tmash]

There is a small oil leak from the extended shim (leak not pictured), I cleaned the copper shims and the surfaces very well, torqued it slighly over and yet that did not work. Should I ship copper spray from abroad? (not avail. here) There was a layer of copper paint from the engine side of the last shim.
Thanks

 

[ponytug]

You are right to be cautious against over tightening the studs. They can only take a small amount of torque. I stripped the threads on one, which luckily for me turned out to be the nut. I replaced the stud on general principles.

The back side of the shim has oil just spraying on it, i.e. it is very low pressure oil. I am very surprised that it is leaking there.

I would double check that you don't have a diesel leak at the base of the solenoid or off of the tubing to the solenoid.

If it really is oil, the only thing that comes to mind is that either the casting warped and is no longer flat (seems unlikely) or the fuel pump face isn't flat (again seems unlikely). Is there a chance that there is a hair or large scratch on the shim, or even a crease in the shim? Is there anything protruding from either one in the unground areas that might be affecting the seal? If it is really oil, all I can suggest is cleaning the exterior surfaces with brake cleaner and applying a liquid rubber gasket material around the outside. I would hesitate to apply rubber gasket material to the shim surfaces as it will affect the timing.

Good luck!

All the best,

Peter

 

[90cummins]

If the oil leaking buy the shim i would use a VERY light coating of silicone on shims.
90cummins

 

[tmash]

You are right to be cautious against over tightening the studs. They can only take a small amount of torque. I stripped the threads on one, which luckily for me turned out to be the nut. I replaced the stud on general principles.

The back side of the shim has oil just spraying on it, i.e. it is very low pressure oil. I am very surprised that it is leaking there.

I would double check that you don't have a diesel leak at the base of the solenoid or off of the tubing to the solenoid.

If it really is oil, the only thing that comes to mind is that either the casting warped and is no longer flat (seems unlikely) or the fuel pump face isn't flat (again seems unlikely). Is there a chance that there is a hair or large scratch on the shim, or even a crease in the shim? Is there anything protruding from either one in the unground areas that might be affecting the seal? If it is really oil, all I can suggest is cleaning the exterior surfaces with brake cleaner and applying a liquid rubber gasket material around the outside. I would hesitate to apply rubber gasket material to the shim surfaces as it will affect the timing.

Good luck!

All the best,

Peter

Thanks, I haven't checked the thick aluminum shim for straightness, it seems to be machined but I definitely should. The cam follower has been modified to use a roller cam, unlike the flat tappet there is an opening in which oil enters easily inside the follower to the fuel pump. It's definitely oil and leaking from the bottom mounting screw, the entire pump is dry to touch. I guess it could definitely be a bend somewhere and a big leak as it's splash lubricated as you mentioned.

If the oil leaking buy the shim i would use a VERY light coating of silicone on shims.
90cummins

Thanks.

 

[tmash]

LARGE SIZE IMAGES AHEAD

Before cleaning.

I've used locally made RTV and liquid to rubber compound in the past on the older engine for the valve cover before I replaced the paper gasket and it leaked at 20 hours. There are no more genuine products in where I live, I cant ship liquids anymore. Takes 2 days for the RTV clone to dry.

The surfaces are too smooth, I temporarily used very thick viscosity grease (brakes) and applied a thin layer. It feels like an adhesive even while hot. Hope I find a good product in the next few days. The aluminum shim is not mirror smooth however you can barely feel the machined grooves.

I'm at loss, I used the sides of a straight edge ruler with a feeler gauge and didn't notice any warp except the actual fuel pump surface is flat but very round around the edges, probably too round thinning the contact area. It feels like the modifications that they made require much more torque and bigger bolts as the whole assembly extrudes much longer than the original design and the mating surfaces are too thin around the bolts. Torqued nuts at 11nm. Would annealing the copper shims help? So that it shrinks and expands on installation, I'm not sure the mounting pressure is enough. Or using multiple very thin copper/aluminum shims.

Edit to add, the studs are thread locked. And the oil leak was around the nuts aswell, with very little amount, not enough to flow on the casing. It takes at least 20 hours before an oil leak is noticeable, maybe oil is sitting there compared to the original design which is flush mount? The copper shims are in this order: Fuel Pump > 0.2mm -> 0.2mm -> ~4mm -> 0.1mm -> Block

 

[bmaverick]

LARGE SIZE IMAGES AHEAD
View attachment 732007View attachment 732008

Before cleaning.
View attachment 732011

View attachment 732013

I've used locally made RTV and liquid to rubber compound in the past on the older engine for the valve cover before I replaced the paper gasket and it leaked at 20 hours. There are no more genuine products in where I live, I cant ship liquids anymore. Takes 2 days for the RTV clone to dry.

The surfaces are too smooth, I temporarily used very thick viscosity grease (brakes) and applied a thin layer. It feels like an adhesive even while hot. Hope I find a good product in the next few days. The aluminum shim is not mirror smooth however you can barely feel the machined grooves.

I'm at loss, I used the sides of a straight edge ruler with a feeler gauge and didn't notice any warp except the actual fuel pump surface is flat but very round around the edges, probably too round thinning the contact area. It feels like the modifications that they made require much more torque and bigger bolts as the whole assembly extrudes much longer than the original design and the mating surfaces are too thin around the bolts. Torqued nuts at 11nm. Would annealing the copper shims help? So that it shrinks and expands on installation, I'm not sure the mounting pressure is enough. Or using multiple very thin copper/aluminum shims.

Edit to add, the studs are thread locked. And the oil leak was around the nuts aswell, with very little amount, not enough to flow on the casing. It takes at least 20 hours before an oil leak is noticeable, maybe oil is sitting there compared to the original design which is flush mount? The copper shims are in this order: Fuel Pump > 0.2mm -> 0.2mm -> ~4mm -> 0.1mm -> Block

You had me thinking a week or more back, then I forgot to reply here.

For shim stock that would seal extremely well vs. the copper or aluminum shims is a gasket material called SV360. My work place uses this by the stock sheets. It would be great for your setup.

SV-360 Nonasbestos Gasket Material - Atlantic Gasket Corporation

Atlantic Gasket's SV-360 high performance gasket materials for demanding automotive, compressor, small engine, and transmission applications.

www.atlanticgasket.com

 

[tmash]

You had me thinking a week or more back, then I forgot to reply here.

For shim stock that would seal extremely well vs. the copper or aluminum shims is a gasket material called SV360. My work place uses this by the stock sheets. It would be great for your setup.

SV-360 Nonasbestos Gasket Material - Atlantic Gasket Corporation

Atlantic Gasket's SV-360 high performance gasket materials for demanding automotive, compressor, small engine, and transmission applications.

www.atlanticgasket.com

Thanks, I'm not sure (yet) at what layer its leaking, and sandwiching each layer with this may expand and compress a bit, in which I'm not sure if it's a big deal for timing yet, but this seems to be very thin and barely compresses compared to normal paper gasket, I will definitely try.
After reassembling the shims today the leak has worsened, something is definitely warped.
I managed to find genuine grey RTV and will test and report back if it leaks by editing this reply.

 

[finyuk2005]

hi there
hoping someone could help me set my governor on a L100 powered 6kv genny,
i got given it for free as the alternator part had failed rather catastrophically!
put a new alternator on, the engine runs fine, but i am struggling to get it dialed in,
tried it a year ago and gave up, the voltage was all over the place!
I then decided to split it and used the engine to repower what was a battery powered Genie lift, but before i did i wanted to have one more go, and annoyingly this time i am getting closer!
no load volts are still just a bit too high, frequency up about 55-56hz , testing with a 4kw load though it can maintain 50hz, so my initial thoughts that the injector pump or governor was shot is possibly not the case.

can anyone tell me what effect the various parts of the governor has? like rotating the governor plate, where to set the throttle lever and the spring in its various hole position, and the spring loaded max fuel screw thing?

thanks for any help! sorry for the long read!
fin

 

[finyuk2005]

i have been doing some reading of a service manual and am now wondering if my L100 has had the injector pump replaced with the wrong one at some point,
according to the manual there are two types, D and S, D being generator spec with max and min rpm of 3800 and 1200 compared to S spec of just 1900 and 600,
The pump on mine has the part number 100S1, im wondering if thats why its not wanting to govern properly at 3000rpm!

wish i had spotted that before spending so many frustrated hours playing around with it!

 

[thepumpguysc]

Tmash.. have u given any thought that the oil might b coming from the bottom of the stud threads.??
Ifn it were mine:: id pull the studs (double nut method) and loc-tite’m in..
Be careful with the silicone.. IT WILL change the timing..
Good luck.