What is the good Chainsaw for clearing?

[Tractorbaja]

I have two Stihl climbing saws with 14" bars, one of which was given to me at my company because it stopped running, which turned out to be a clogged spark arrestor. It had been sorely abused by several ignorant employees but it is still going strong. I put a carbide chain on it and have cut about two cords of oak, mesquite, and ironwood over the last three years and have not had it sharpened. I have another identical Stihl that I got a good deal on and a bigger Stihl. They all are easy to start and very reliable.

 

[jyoutz]

I have two Stihl climbing saws with 14" bars, one of which was given to me at my company because it stopped running, which turned out to be a clogged spark arrestor. It had been sorely abused by several ignorant employees but it is still going strong. I put a carbide chain on it and have cut about two cords of oak, mesquite, and ironwood over the last three years and have not had it sharpened. I have another identical Stihl that I got a good deal on and a bigger Stihl. They all are easy to start and very reliable.

If you haven’t sharpened your chain or filed the rackers after cutting two cords, then you need to do this before using the saw again. Otherwise you are burning the teeth on your chain and wearing it out prematurely.

 

[ericm979]

Gas with ethanol eventually destroys carburetors.

I have OPE that's been running E10 for 25 years on the original carb. In fact I have never replaced a carb in any of my small engines, and all I run is E10. I'd run E0 if it was available locally at a reasonable price, but it's not.

I am however pretty good about running carbs dry when I store equipment for more than a month. I've been doing that since before ethanol in gas was a thing. Any gas, even E0, gums up carbs if you let it dry up in them. But with some equipment I can't do that and it's still been fine.

The Stihl CM saws run great. Unlike regular carburetors they never need adjustment to account for temperature or elevation change. Most people just run their saws with the carb set to whever the shop set it to, then wonder why it does not make the power it used to or in the worst case, why it seized. I try to always be aware of how the engine is running and will tune the carb when needed. With Mtronic I never have to, it's always tuned right. The Mtronic system is very simple and reliable.

 

[big bubba]

Why can't the manufacturers adjust? The auto industry did.

actually that's a good point, hadn't thought of it or seen anything to it's point given the importance of using non ethanol for 2 cycle

 

[newbury]

What is a good Chainsaw that starts on the first pull, lightweight but powerful, and doesnt breakdown after a day or two of heavy cutting..?

As stated even a cold Stihl doesn't start on the first pull.

What is required is a D8 with a brush rake. The chainsaw sounds good but it is not the proper tool for what is required!

First pretreat with napalm. Worked in 'Nam.

The auto industries now use fuel injection. Gas with ethanol eventually destroys carburetors. Fuel injection is probably not economically feasible on small engines, so they still have carburetors. I always fill my small equipment fuel cans with ethanol free gas at a local petroleum dealer (at a considerably higher cost than standard gas with ethanol). Even though the ethanol free fuel is expensive, i only use about 10-20 gallons per summer for my small engine equipment.

Get up to date:
Stihl MS 500i
The MS 500i is the first chain saw on the worldwide market with electronically controlled fuel injection.

​

 

[jyoutz]

I have OPE that's been running E10 for 25 years on the original carb. In fact I have never replaced a carb in any of my small engines, and all I run is E10. I'd run E0 if it was available locally at a reasonable price, but it's not.

I am however pretty good about running carbs dry when I store equipment for more than a month. I've been doing that since before ethanol in gas was a thing. Any gas, even E0, gums up carbs if you let it dry up in them. But with some equipment I can't do that and it's still been fine.

The Stihl CM saws run great. Unlike regular carburetors they never need adjustment to account for temperature or elevation change. Most people just run their saws with the carb set to whever the shop set it to, then wonder why it does not make the power it used to or in the worst case, why it seized. I try to always be aware of how the engine is running and will tune the carb when needed. With Mtronic I never have to, it's always tuned right. The Mtronic system is very simple and reliable.

I have taken more than one small engine for carburetor replacement

I have OPE that's been running E10 for 25 years on the original carb. In fact I have never replaced a carb in any of my small engines, and all I run is E10. I'd run E0 if it was available locally at a reasonable price, but it's not.

I am however pretty good about running carbs dry when I store equipment for more than a month. I've been doing that since before ethanol in gas was a thing. Any gas, even E0, gums up carbs if you let it dry up in them. But with some equipment I can't do that and it's still been fine.

The Stihl CM saws run great. Unlike regular carburetors they never need adjustment to account for temperature or elevation change. Most people just run their saws with the carb set to whever the shop set it to, then wonder why it does not make the power it used to or in the worst case, why it seized. I try to always be aware of how the engine is running and will tune the carb when needed. With Mtronic I never have to, it's always tuned right. The Mtronic system is very simple and reliable.

i have replaced more than one small engine carburetor due to ethanol fuel. So how do you run them dry? Siphon the fuel from the tank and then let the carburetor run dry?

 

[Rockbadchild]

I have taken more than one small engine for carburetor replacement

i have replaced more than one small engine carburetor due to ethanol fuel. So how do you run them dry? Siphon the fuel from the tank and then let the carburetor run dry?

leaving them on the shelf dry is not a good idea ether every seal and hoses dry up and leaks you better use non ethanol fuel…

 

[CADplans]

I have had a Stihl 029 Super for just over 20 years,, THEN,,,
I walked into the dealer, and picked up a Stihl MS261C-M.

The saw, power-wise is pretty close to my 029,, but,, it is 30% lighter,, and it is narrower.
I bought it on the spot..

So,, my recommendation would depend on the age of the user.
The 029 was perfect 20 years ago,, the MS261C-M is perfecter now,,,

 

[ndavis]

As I posted before, I am clearing several lots, and need a good chainsaw to tackle the bigger trees and can grind them down afterward with a stump grinder. But you really cant find out much of anything out of the stores on what works for solid pine and oak that we have down here. What is a good Chainsaw that starts on the first pull, lightweight but powerful, and doesnt breakdown after a day or two of heavy cutting..?

Sjstyles nailed it. It appears to me that the chainsaw you are looking for doesn't exist. You will always have to balance the power you want against the weight you can comfortably handle. My personal solution is to buy the biggest powerhead I can comfortably handle and run it with the shortest bar that will do what I need. Good maintenance assists with starting and longevity. Regardless of what you choose, clearing is just hard work.

 

[kenmac]

Power, easy start (1-2nd pull) and light weight doesn't exist that I'm aware of.
I have a Husky 372XP that's much easier to start than my husky 55 rancher

The 372 has decompression button and the 55 doesn't.
The 372 is powerful, but not really light weight, but not really bad either.

Good luck with your search

 

[greenrider1]

I guess I'll be the odd ball since I love my Jonsered 2165 (65 cc). I've cut 12-15 cord of wood each year for the last 20 years with this saw and it's never let me down. Always starts easy with a couple pulls and runs flawlessly. All I've ever done as far as maintenance is replace the spark plug once, replace fuel line once, blow the dust out when I swap chains and keep the clutch bearing greased. It's got enough power to run a 24" bar but I generally run an 18" or 20". Parts are interchangeable with Husqvarna since it's basically a red Husky. If it ever needs replacing I'll replace it with a Husky since the dealer I bought it from is no longer in business and Husqvarnas are easier to find. I'd definitely recommend a pro level saw for longevity when used heavily.

 

[dougtrr2]

I am a Still fan. But I think one benefit of getting a pro level saw is the anti-vibration mounts. I can use my Stihl for hours and not have and hand numbing issues. A cheap saw may put your hands to sleep.

As mentioned earlier sharp chains are key. It doesn't matter what you have driving it if the chain is dull.

Doug in SW IA

 

[big bubba]

leaving them on the shelf dry is not a good idea ether every seal and hoses dry up and leaks you better use non ethanol fuel…

agree, good point. the year that i tried the run it dry method, the fuel cut off solenoid went bad on the zero turn @ the start of a new season. now i just store with treated non ethanol & start occasionally during off season. interesting that some pay extra for "easy start" equipment yet continue to use e10 then complain if starting problems persist on a new season.

 

[Rockbadchild]

agree, good point. the year that i tried the run it dry method, the fuel cut off solenoid went bad on the zero turn @ the start of a new season. now i just store with treated non ethanol & start occasionally during off season. interesting that some pay extra for "easy start" equipment yet continue to use e10 then complain if starting problems persist on a new season.

yes that’s a good method’s also remember to add fuel stabilizer on shelf gas and stored equipment.

 

[lostcause]

a lot of it is learning to read the manual or ask the guy who set it up. i watched someone unsuccessfully try to start a new husqvarna just by thrashing on the pull cord. i then took it from him and pushed the choke/kill up to choke, then gently down until i felt the first slight click, and it was running on the next pull. consistent fuel sometimes helps too. canned fuel worked pretty well, though pricey. in the search for ethanol free pump fuel, i tried sunoco race fuel, but i could not get it to ignite on a cold saw. if i used it on an already warmed up engine, it ran fine, but that high octane wouldn't work on a cold saw the way it was set up.

 

[Sonny580]

well,-- lets see,---Powerful?,--lightweight?,-- start on first pull????????????????? THAT rules out ALL chainsaws! lol! Better opt for a big dozer and be done with it!lol!

 

[rScotty]

Battery chainsaws are almost here. My primary chainsaw is a Stihl....but it is picky about just what gas it likes - and there are days I just don't want to pull that cord or wrestle with it. I've been cutting our firewood since building the cabin in 1971 and don't need the hassle.

So I decided to try a portable electric. A Makita XCU03. It runs on two 18 volt lithium batteries and comes standard with 4 batteries & dual charger..
Frankly I've been surprised at how handy it is. It's a lightweight nicely balanced saw and one set of batteries will drop a mature 10 inch ponderosa pine, then limb and dice it up into 16" rounds. 4 batteries will do two trees, which is more than the FEL bucket can hold.

There are downsides: It does use a chain with smallish teeth, and lacks any low end torque for getting unstuck. Bring a mallet and plastic wedge - but then I do that anyway. Plus it has just about the worst bar oiler - or non-oiler - that I've yet seen. It has an adjustable oiler which allows for multiple settings that don't work. So also along comes the shampoo bottle of bar oil.

It's a nice trimming and limbing saw that will also do enough small tree work to make it worth bringing along. I'd buy it again.
rScotty

 

[John_Mc]

I have two Stihl climbing saws with 14" bars, one of which was given to me at my company because it stopped running, which turned out to be a clogged spark arrestor. It had been sorely abused by several ignorant employees but it is still going strong. I put a carbide chain on it and have cut about two cords of oak, mesquite, and ironwood over the last three years and have not had it sharpened. I have another identical Stihl that I got a good deal on and a bigger Stihl. They all are easy to start and very reliable.

If you haven’t sharpened your chain or filed the rackers after cutting two cords, then you need to do this before using the saw again. Otherwise you are burning the teeth on your chain and wearing it out prematurely.

Maybe you missed the part about a carbide chain? That's kind of the point of carbide chains: You do give up a bit in cutting speed compared to a well-sharpened steel chain, but the carbide lasts much longer (as long as you don't chip it on a rock or something). Good luck when it finally does become time to sharpen it, however.

 

[jyoutz]

Maybe you missed the part about a carbide chain? That's kind of the point of carbide chains: You do give up a bit in cutting speed compared to a well-sharpened steel chain, but the carbide lasts much longer (as long as you don't chip it on a rock or something). Good luck when it finally does become time to sharpen it, however.

Those carbide chains need to go into a saw shop, hand filing in the woods is not too productive.

 

[m1garand762]

Whatever you get do not buy it from a big box or national retail store. Go to a local saw shop and get a farm grade at minimum preferably a pro grade. box store saws may have the same numbers as a saw shop but the inside is completely different. That being said I run a 290 as my small saw with a 20 inch bar and a 500i as my big saw with a 26 inch. Check out Buckinbillyray on YouTube or cottontop 3 both are tree removal professionals and offer a lot of information about different saws