What is the good Chainsaw for clearing?

[Reddogs]

Anybody tried the Dewalt Battery Chainsaw, are they as good as the reviews say?

 

[Reddogs]

Were are they being made as it seem even the assembly of the batteries and saws are all over the place...

 

[John_Mc]

Were are they being made as it seem even the assembly of the batteries and saws are all over the place...

The video review you posted in reply #119 show place of manufacture for each of the saws reviewed.

 

[Reddogs]

The video review you posted in reply #119 show place of manufacture for each of the saws reviewed.

But I thought Dewalt was made here...

 

[John_Mc]

Anybody tried the Dewalt Battery Chainsaw, are they as good as the reviews say?

I cut mainly hardwoods. If cutting hardwood logs of any size, torque is more important than no-load chain speed. For this case, the Dewalt 60V and the Milwaukee M18 Fuel are good performers. It would be interesting to see a comparison of some of these saws with their 16" bar almost buried in a dense hardwood log (just enough for the last inch or so of the bar to poke out the other side). I'm sure it would take a lot of patience, but it would really show the difference where good torque is a requirement.

When limbing smaller branches, particularly in softwoods, some of the higher RPM, lower torque saws may do better. (For example, the Milwaukee suffers a bit when limbing small pine branches, due to it's low chains speed.)

One thing to keep in mind: much of what these comparison videos show is the difference in chain sharpness (or the difference in the chain design itself). Even a new chain out of the box often is not ground to the best geometry. The difference in chain design can also be significant. Further, the difference in operator technique can be large, particularly when the saw is under a decent load.

For me, it was a choice between the Dewalt 60V and the Milwaukee. I like the safety interlock on the trigger on the Milwaukee better - I found the Dewalt a bit awkward. I also like the bar mount on the Milwaukee better: it's similar to what is on my gas saws: two threaded studs. I'm not a fan of the single threaded stud on some of these battery saws (and also on some smaller gas saws - he ones that tout their "tool-less" system). They are just not as secure.

I found either the Dewalt or the Milwaukee an acceptable choice for my use. Those couple of things noted above had me leaning toward the Milwaukee. THe fact that I could use the batteries with all of my other cordless Milwaukee tools was a big factor. If I already owned a bunch of tools which could use the Dewalt batteries, I probably would have gone that way.

The fact that it was a bit slower than the Dewalt on some tests did not bother me. If I have a lot of cutting to do or speed is an issue, even my smallest gas saw (a 50cc) will run rings around any of these battery saws. The battery saw gets used where noise is an issue, and is definitely a choice when I just need a few quick cuts. I can have that cutting done before I've got my gas saws fueled, started, and warmed up.

 

[Reddogs]

I cut mainly hardwoods. If cutting hardwood logs of any size, torque is more important than no-load chain speed. For this case, the Dewalt 60V and the Milwaukee M18 Fuel are good performers. It would be interesting to see a comparison of some of these saws with their 16" bar almost buried in a dense hardwood log (just enough for the last inch or so of the bar to poke out the other side). I'm sure it would take a lot of patience, but it would really show the difference where good torque is a requirement.

When limbing smaller branches, particularly in softwoods, some of the higher RPM, lower torque saws may do better. (For example, the Milwaukee suffers a bit when limbing small pine branches, due to it's low chains speed.)

One thing to keep in mind: much of what these comparison videos show is the difference in chain sharpness (or the difference in the chain design itself). Even a new chain out of the box often is not ground to the best geometry. The difference in chain design can also be significant. Further, the difference in operator technique can be large, particularly when the saw is under a decent load.

For me, it was a choice between the Dewalt 60V and the Milwaukee. I like the safety interlock on the trigger on the Milwaukee better - I found the Dewalt a bit awkward. I also like the bar mount on the Milwaukee better: it's similar to what is on my gas saws: two threaded studs. I'm not a fan of the single threaded stud on some of these battery saws (and also on some smaller gas saws - he ones that tout their "tool-less" system). They are just not as secure.

I found either the Dewalt or the Milwaukee an acceptable choice for my use. Those couple of things noted above had me leaning toward the Milwaukee. THe fact that I could use the batteries with all of my other cordless Milwaukee tools was a big factor. If I already owned a bunch of tools which could use the Dewalt batteries, I probably would have gone that way.

The fact that it was a bit slower than the Dewalt on some tests did not bother me. If I have a lot of cutting to do or speed is an issue, even my smallest gas saw (a 50cc) will run rings around any of these battery saws. The battery saw gets used where noise is an issue, and is definitely a choice when I just need a few quick cuts. I can have that cutting done before I've got my gas saws fueled, started, and warmed up.

Good review, I saw that the gas saws outperform the battery, but my Stilh gives me too trouble to start and to service and change the blade and chain to bring it up to snuff, will cost about what it would be to replace it. Yes, cant pull like I used to, so time to use the battery chainsaw. I didnt pay attention too much on the safety interlock on the videos, but the reviewer did complain on the placing and ease of use on the safety interlock on a lot of the saws including the Dewalt which he didnt like. Will have to pay attention next time..

 

[lennypoulin]

I've only had great luck with Husquavarna. My Stihl won't hold an idle since new. The shop where I bought it couldn't help and blamed it on the emission controls. Stick to the equipment dealers that specialize in chain saws, where tree professionals might go. The size is dependent on what weight you are comfortable working with. I'm older, so lightweight is what I need. My Husky 345 e-series with a 16" bar will cut anything I want to cut, even it takes me a little longer than someone who has a bigger saw. Watch a bunch of YouTube videos on how to safely fell a tree. I've done a lot of cutting and I still learn more from watching these videos.

 

[John_Mc]

Beware of using YouTube videos as an education in chainsaws. There are a whole lot of people out there making chainsaw videos who are doing some pretty questionable things. Some of those YouTube authors should probably not be allowed to play with anything sharper than a rubber ball.

You can learn something from some of them. The problem is that viewers without a solid background in chainsaw use may not be able to judge which videos are demonstrating good techniques, and which are candidates for a Darwin Award. (I am not by any means trying to claim that I am the ultimate authority on which is which. However a fair number of the videos I'm seen show some really stupid things going on. A disturbingly high number show some rather basic errors even in otherwise good approaches.)

 

[Reddogs]

Beware of using YouTube videos as an education in chainsaws. There are a whole lot of people out there making chainsaw videos who are doing some pretty questionable things. Some of those YouTube authors should probably not be allowed to play with anything sharper than a rubber ball.

You can learn something from some of them. The problem is that viewers without a solid background in chainsaw use may not be able to judge which videos are demonstrating good techniques, and which are candidates for a Darwin Award. (I am not by any means trying to claim that I am the ultimate authority on which is which. However a fair number of the videos I'm seen show some really stupid things going on. A disturbingly high number show some rather basic errors even in otherwise good approaches.)

Well, it seems some of them are basically 'shilling' for certain brands, as they say this is the one you have to buy, when obviously they are just suppose to review, not sell you on one...

 

[John_Mc]

Beware of using YouTube videos as an education in chainsaws. There are a whole lot of people out there making chainsaw videos who are doing some pretty questionable things. Some of those YouTube authors should probably not be allowed to play with anything sharper than a rubber ball.

You can learn something from some of them. The problem is that viewers without a solid background in chainsaw use may not be able to judge which videos are demonstrating good techniques, and which are candidates for a Darwin Award. (I am not by any means trying to claim that I am the ultimate authority on which is which. However a fair number of the videos I'm seen show some really stupid things going on. A disturbingly high number show some rather basic errors even in otherwise good approaches.)

Well, it seems some of them are basically 'shilling' for certain brands, as they say this is the one you have to buy, when obviously they are just suppose to review, not sell you on one...

My warning was more about the "here's how to do it" videos than the reviews of various brands and models.

Though I do agree... many reviews are either shills for certain brands, or just "fanboys" who think that anything made by their chosen favorite is the best and all the rest are a waste of time.