What is the good Chainsaw for clearing?

[Reddogs]

Anybody tried the Dewalt Battery Chainsaw, are they as good as the reviews say?

 

[Reddogs]

Were are they being made as it seem even the assembly of the batteries and saws are all over the place...

 

[John_Mc]

Were are they being made as it seem even the assembly of the batteries and saws are all over the place...

The video review you posted in reply #119 show place of manufacture for each of the saws reviewed.

 

[Reddogs]

The video review you posted in reply #119 show place of manufacture for each of the saws reviewed.

But I thought Dewalt was made here...

 

[John_Mc]

Anybody tried the Dewalt Battery Chainsaw, are they as good as the reviews say?

I cut mainly hardwoods. If cutting hardwood logs of any size, torque is more important than no-load chain speed. For this case, the Dewalt 60V and the Milwaukee M18 Fuel are good performers. It would be interesting to see a comparison of some of these saws with their 16" bar almost buried in a dense hardwood log (just enough for the last inch or so of the bar to poke out the other side). I'm sure it would take a lot of patience, but it would really show the difference where good torque is a requirement.

When limbing smaller branches, particularly in softwoods, some of the higher RPM, lower torque saws may do better. (For example, the Milwaukee suffers a bit when limbing small pine branches, due to it's low chains speed.)

One thing to keep in mind: much of what these comparison videos show is the difference in chain sharpness (or the difference in the chain design itself). Even a new chain out of the box often is not ground to the best geometry. The difference in chain design can also be significant. Further, the difference in operator technique can be large, particularly when the saw is under a decent load.

For me, it was a choice between the Dewalt 60V and the Milwaukee. I like the safety interlock on the trigger on the Milwaukee better - I found the Dewalt a bit awkward. I also like the bar mount on the Milwaukee better: it's similar to what is on my gas saws: two threaded studs. I'm not a fan of the single threaded stud on some of these battery saws (and also on some smaller gas saws - he ones that tout their "tool-less" system). They are just not as secure.

I found either the Dewalt or the Milwaukee an acceptable choice for my use. Those couple of things noted above had me leaning toward the Milwaukee. THe fact that I could use the batteries with all of my other cordless Milwaukee tools was a big factor. If I already owned a bunch of tools which could use the Dewalt batteries, I probably would have gone that way.

The fact that it was a bit slower than the Dewalt on some tests did not bother me. If I have a lot of cutting to do or speed is an issue, even my smallest gas saw (a 50cc) will run rings around any of these battery saws. The battery saw gets used where noise is an issue, and is definitely a choice when I just need a few quick cuts. I can have that cutting done before I've got my gas saws fueled, started, and warmed up.

 

[Reddogs]

I cut mainly hardwoods. If cutting hardwood logs of any size, torque is more important than no-load chain speed. For this case, the Dewalt 60V and the Milwaukee M18 Fuel are good performers. It would be interesting to see a comparison of some of these saws with their 16" bar almost buried in a dense hardwood log (just enough for the last inch or so of the bar to poke out the other side). I'm sure it would take a lot of patience, but it would really show the difference where good torque is a requirement.

When limbing smaller branches, particularly in softwoods, some of the higher RPM, lower torque saws may do better. (For example, the Milwaukee suffers a bit when limbing small pine branches, due to it's low chains speed.)

One thing to keep in mind: much of what these comparison videos show is the difference in chain sharpness (or the difference in the chain design itself). Even a new chain out of the box often is not ground to the best geometry. The difference in chain design can also be significant. Further, the difference in operator technique can be large, particularly when the saw is under a decent load.

For me, it was a choice between the Dewalt 60V and the Milwaukee. I like the safety interlock on the trigger on the Milwaukee better - I found the Dewalt a bit awkward. I also like the bar mount on the Milwaukee better: it's similar to what is on my gas saws: two threaded studs. I'm not a fan of the single threaded stud on some of these battery saws (and also on some smaller gas saws - he ones that tout their "tool-less" system). They are just not as secure.

I found either the Dewalt or the Milwaukee an acceptable choice for my use. Those couple of things noted above had me leaning toward the Milwaukee. THe fact that I could use the batteries with all of my other cordless Milwaukee tools was a big factor. If I already owned a bunch of tools which could use the Dewalt batteries, I probably would have gone that way.

The fact that it was a bit slower than the Dewalt on some tests did not bother me. If I have a lot of cutting to do or speed is an issue, even my smallest gas saw (a 50cc) will run rings around any of these battery saws. The battery saw gets used where noise is an issue, and is definitely a choice when I just need a few quick cuts. I can have that cutting done before I've got my gas saws fueled, started, and warmed up.

Good review, I saw that the gas saws outperform the battery, but my Stilh gives me too trouble to start and to service and change the blade and chain to bring it up to snuff, will cost about what it would be to replace it. Yes, cant pull like I used to, so time to use the battery chainsaw. I didnt pay attention too much on the safety interlock on the videos, but the reviewer did complain on the placing and ease of use on the safety interlock on a lot of the saws including the Dewalt which he didnt like. Will have to pay attention next time..

 

[lennypoulin]

I've only had great luck with Husquavarna. My Stihl won't hold an idle since new. The shop where I bought it couldn't help and blamed it on the emission controls. Stick to the equipment dealers that specialize in chain saws, where tree professionals might go. The size is dependent on what weight you are comfortable working with. I'm older, so lightweight is what I need. My Husky 345 e-series with a 16" bar will cut anything I want to cut, even it takes me a little longer than someone who has a bigger saw. Watch a bunch of YouTube videos on how to safely fell a tree. I've done a lot of cutting and I still learn more from watching these videos.

 

[John_Mc]

Beware of using YouTube videos as an education in chainsaws. There are a whole lot of people out there making chainsaw videos who are doing some pretty questionable things. Some of those YouTube authors should probably not be allowed to play with anything sharper than a rubber ball.

You can learn something from some of them. The problem is that viewers without a solid background in chainsaw use may not be able to judge which videos are demonstrating good techniques, and which are candidates for a Darwin Award. (I am not by any means trying to claim that I am the ultimate authority on which is which. However a fair number of the videos I'm seen show some really stupid things going on. A disturbingly high number show some rather basic errors even in otherwise good approaches.)

 

[Reddogs]

Beware of using YouTube videos as an education in chainsaws. There are a whole lot of people out there making chainsaw videos who are doing some pretty questionable things. Some of those YouTube authors should probably not be allowed to play with anything sharper than a rubber ball.

You can learn something from some of them. The problem is that viewers without a solid background in chainsaw use may not be able to judge which videos are demonstrating good techniques, and which are candidates for a Darwin Award. (I am not by any means trying to claim that I am the ultimate authority on which is which. However a fair number of the videos I'm seen show some really stupid things going on. A disturbingly high number show some rather basic errors even in otherwise good approaches.)

Well, it seems some of them are basically 'shilling' for certain brands, as they say this is the one you have to buy, when obviously they are just suppose to review, not sell you on one...

 

[John_Mc]

Beware of using YouTube videos as an education in chainsaws. There are a whole lot of people out there making chainsaw videos who are doing some pretty questionable things. Some of those YouTube authors should probably not be allowed to play with anything sharper than a rubber ball.

You can learn something from some of them. The problem is that viewers without a solid background in chainsaw use may not be able to judge which videos are demonstrating good techniques, and which are candidates for a Darwin Award. (I am not by any means trying to claim that I am the ultimate authority on which is which. However a fair number of the videos I'm seen show some really stupid things going on. A disturbingly high number show some rather basic errors even in otherwise good approaches.)

Well, it seems some of them are basically 'shilling' for certain brands, as they say this is the one you have to buy, when obviously they are just suppose to review, not sell you on one...

My warning was more about the "here's how to do it" videos than the reviews of various brands and models.

Though I do agree... many reviews are either shills for certain brands, or just "fanboys" who think that anything made by their chosen favorite is the best and all the rest are a waste of time.

 

[Reddogs]

I've only had great luck with Husquavarna. My Stihl won't hold an idle since new. The shop where I bought it couldn't help and blamed it on the emission controls. Stick to the equipment dealers that specialize in chain saws, where tree professionals might go. The size is dependent on what weight you are comfortable working with. I'm older, so lightweight is what I need. My Husky 345 e-series with a 16" bar will cut anything I want to cut, even it takes me a little longer than someone who has a bigger saw. Watch a bunch of YouTube videos on how to safely fell a tree. I've done a lot of cutting and I still learn more from watching these videos.

Watch out when the tree hits the ground, as the heavy side can bounce. Almost caught my chin yesterday as I was dropping trees...

 

[sd455dan]

I've only had great luck with Husquavarna. My Stihl won't hold an idle since new. The shop where I bought it couldn't help and blamed it on the emission controls. Stick to the equipment dealers that specialize in chain saws, where tree professionals might go. The size is dependent on what weight you are comfortable working with. I'm older, so lightweight is what I need. My Husky 345 e-series with a 16" bar will cut anything I want to cut, even it takes me a little longer than someone who has a bigger saw. Watch a bunch of YouTube videos on how to safely fell a tree. I've done a lot of cutting and I still learn more from watching these videos.

Kind of similar, Really like any of the 340,346, 350,353 saws.
Inherited dad's 2001 closed port Husky 350 and used it a couple years, but it developed a lean condition because of a leak between the clamshell haves.
Fixed the leak. Put a flat top meteor piston in, reduced the squish, muffler modded it and advanced the timing a couple degrees. With a an 18 inch bar and full chisel It cuts really quick and is light.
I liked it so well bought another runner Husky 350 off ebay an (open port) version, that had a fuel leak- fixed that, reduced the squish, muffler mod and modified an 8 tooth stihl drive hub to replace the stock 7 tooth.
Put a 16 inch bar, full chisel chain on it and it is a real gem to use on smaller stuff because of the higher chain speed. Going to get one of the super light bars for it to.
Get my son to help buck up firewood and with 2 saws things go quick.
Clamshell husky saws may not be all metal but being plastic they are light. For the bigger stuff I also have dads McCulloch Promac 700 and other than being Loud and having more vibration it really works well.
Figured that covered most bases but wanted a Big saw for any real large diameter trees I might need to cut.
For fun I bought a Stihl 660 Clone kit and am getting ready to play "build a saw".
Can't wait to have a large cc saw.
All that said the 350 Husky's will probably continue to be my go to saws.
Then again is there such a thing as having "to many" good running saws?

 

[ihookem]

Well,it's been 8 yrs. since my last post and I'm sure you all missed me dearly. As for chainsaws. I have a Stihl 026, 034 , 441. My 034 is my favorite, a 54 cc. I bought it new over 30 yrs. ago and use it the most. I also bought 2 Echo's this spring, a 501P and a 620P. The The 501 and the 026 are just different. 026 is 22 yrs old and has a crankcase leak. I still run it for dropping popple. I planted 700 in 2007 and they are pretty much dead. The 026 cant keep up with the 501P, however, it is a crippled saw and old. The 026 does not have the speed, maybe cause of the leak, not sure and doesn't idle well but wide open it is pretty good, but the 501P is faster. I am sure the Stihl 261 is a better saw , but $150 more . The 501P does not have the better bar, it is a cheapy made in China and surely wont last, so it will cost me $50 for a new bar someday when the Stihl would last much longer. My 034 will out cut the 501P however, but is 8% more cc's. The 501 is bottom line pro saw ,but nice . My Echo 620P is quite a saw for the $600 with tax. It is 20% more cc than the 501 but will cut 50% faster. It's a very nice saw. Both Echo's were $1,000 with tax for the both. My Stihl 441 is a screaming saw . The 620P does not run with it in any way. Many dont like the 441 , but some say it has a lot of torque , and I agree. If I had to do it all over , I think I would have went with the Stihl 261 and not bought the 2 Echo's. Would have saved $350 and would have had an extra bar and chains from the 026. All are good saws, however , I think the Stihl 261 is a better quality saw than the 501P and the 261 is a true pro saw. I am not biased , for I love all saws. Hand saws, sawzalls, miter boxes, you name it, as long as they dont give me trouble and do it job. If I had to pick one saw, I think it would be the Echo 620P, unless I could have a new 034. The Stihl 441 is much easier on gas than the 620P and will cut noticably more wood with a gallon of gas and do it faster too. I bet the 261 computer carb is easier on gas than the Echo's too. It is likely the best bet out there for a one saw guy. The extra money for the Stihl? I say Pfft, quality is cheap.

 

[CalG]

A McCulloch Mac 10-10 will cut anything it can get it's chain into If you can carry one, or find one ;-)

But it;s hard to beat the little Husky 543XP ...

Are you big and strong? If not, a smaller saw does a lot of work... just a little slower.

If you are bucking on the landing, weight works in your favor ;-)

eta

By the way, I hear that the Makita chain saw is a heck of a good piece of equipment!.

Likely made by Singer sewing machine company or some such Euro groupe. ;-)

 

[CADplans]

I bet the 261 computer carb is easier on gas than the Echo's too. It is likely the best bet out there for a one saw guy. The extra money for the Stihl?

I bought the MS261 C-M last year,,
Since it's purchase, my other two Stihl saws have been cleaned, and put on the shelf, hopefully to never be run, again.

The 261 starts easy, weighs WAY less than my other saws, and has incredible power.

I was looking at the saws at the store one day, picked up the 261, and the low weight sold me instantly.
It has been a great purchase,, I do not say that about many things,, these days,,,

 

[Skagit]

I bought the MS261 C-M last year,,
Since it's purchase, my other two Stihl saws have been cleaned, and put on the shelf, hopefully to never be run, again.

The 261 starts easy, weighs WAY less than my other saws, and has incredible power.

I was looking at the saws at the store one day, picked up the 261, and the low weight sold me instantly.
It has been a great purchase,, I do not say that about many things,, these days,,,

I like my 261 a lot but it burns wayyyy more gas than my 032AV or my buddies 271.

 

[dodge man]

I can also say good things about a Stihl 261. Burns a lot of gas? I’ve not noticed that but even if it does the cost of fuel for a chainsaw is awfully small.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Two of ours have 60 inch bars.

 

[2manyrocks]

If someone is looking at Ryobi, the direct tools outlet sometimes has better prices on blemished/reconditioned. Direct Tools Outlet Site

This chain saw brush cutter attachment for gas trimmers will zip through smaller trees, briars and brush like crazy. The nice thing is you can cut pretty close to ground level, and the trimmer shaft puts some distance between you and whatever you're cutting. But in my experience, it throws debris so wear eye protection. Also strongly recommend using a trimmer with handlebars to control it. Don't have any bystanders or pets anywhere near it. This is one tool to be very, very careful using. https://www.amazon.com/Forester-Cha...efix=chainsaw+brush+blade,aps,316&sr=8-3&th=1

 

[CADplans]

This chain saw brush cutter attachment for gas trimmers will zip through smaller trees, briars and brush like crazy. The nice thing is you can cut pretty close to ground level, and the trimmer shaft puts some distance between you and whatever you're cutting.

I bought a similar blade, but, it is a carbide tipped 10" blade.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B097QVNMHN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The blade is so thin, it goes through most woody plants and small trees effortlessly.
I guess it is similar to comparing a circular sawmill to a bandsaw. The thin bandsaw takes WAY less horsepower.