Should I "Upgrade"?

   / Should I "Upgrade"? #1  

rebelback

Bronze Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2011
Messages
63
Location
South Arkansas
Tractor
2010 Case Farmall 45 HST
I currently have a 2010 Case IH Farmall 45 HST. It only has about 450 hours on it and does almost everything I need to do. The only thing I don't like is it is fairly lightweight and has trouble hauling decent sized logs out of the woods with me cutting them in 8ft or so size sections.

I'd like to add a grapple to it, but with a quick attach bucket or 3rd function I'm looking at about $2,500 to swap over to that setup minus grapple.

I can get a Mahindra 2660 HST for around $10,000-$12,000 more than what a used version of my tractor is selling at currently. It will need the grapple and 3rd function, but would come with a quick attach, rear remotes, and about 20% more PTO power than what I have now. Plus more loader and lift capacity.

I'm just worried the Mahindra won't be as refined as what I have now. The Mahindra is the brand that appeals to me because of the lack of DPF. Trying to decide if I should upgrade now, take the farm tax credit for the next few years, or upgrade what I have then by a power shuttle 65hp+ in 5 or so years while keeping the 45 for the smaller stuff.
 
   / Should I "Upgrade"? #2  
I have an older mahindra and my best friend has a newer one. I wouldn't buy a mahindra. Dealers are lawn mower shops. Barely know what parts are. The newer ones quality is crap. Bad assembly from the factory caused electrical Grimlens for a while. Few other repairs. He had to borrow from me while the dealer had his a month or 2
 
   / Should I "Upgrade"?
  • Thread Starter
#3  
I have an older mahindra and my best friend has a newer one. I wouldn't buy a mahindra. Dealers are lawn mower shops. Barely know what parts are. The newer ones quality is crap. Bad assembly from the factory caused electrical Grimlens for a while. Few other repairs. He had to borrow from me while the dealer had his a month or 2
That is my concern, but I sure don't want to deal with DPF and all other brands have a DPF.
 
   / Should I "Upgrade"? #4  
I'm sure they have some form of emissions equipment. More than likely a doc system. I'd just get a pre emissions machine. That's what I did. Mechanical pump. Virtually no electronics. Bomb proof. And I have a degree in electrical engineering
 
   / Should I "Upgrade"? #5  
get a hydraulic winch.
 
   / Should I "Upgrade"? #6  
Price wise this is a terrible time to buy a new tractor.

Sometime during the next five years prices should come down.


It takes a 50% increase in bare tractor weight before you notice a real increase in tractor capability in the field. Increasing bare tractor weight from 3,454 pounds to 4,145 pounds will not be discernible in the field. More horsepower will not increase tractor pulling capacity without more tractor weight.

(Your current tractor and my Kubota L3560 are the same weight.)

Are the rear tires on your current tractor filled 50% to 75% with liquid?

Are you carrying TPH counterbalance when using the FEL for heavy loads?

Case IH Farmall 45​

Case IH Farmall 45 Weight
3,454 lbs
1566 kg (hydro ROPS)
3,522 lbs
1597 kg (gear ROPS)
4,491 lbs
2037 kg (hydro cab)
4,136 lbs
1876 kg (CVT cab)
CaseIH L350 Loader
Height (to pin):105 inches
266 cm
Lift to full height (at pin):2,000 lbs
907 kg




Mahindra 2660​

Dimensions
Wheelbase:73.7 inches
187 cm
Length:138.8 inches
352 cm
Width:71.1 inches
180 cm
Height:102 inches
259 cm
ROPS Weight:4145 lbs
1880 kg
Cab Weight:4585 lbs
2079 kg
Ground clearance:14.5 inches
36 cm
 
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   / Should I "Upgrade"? #7  
The only thing I don't like is it is fairly lightweight and has trouble hauling decent sized logs out of the woods with me cutting them in 8ft or so size sections.

Are the rear tires on your current tractor filled 50% to 75% with liquid?

Are you dragging logs using chains from the rear/center drawbar to the load, or using chains from a Three Point Hitch cross drawbar to the load? (Which?)




I'd like to add a grapple to it, but with a quick attach bucket or 3rd function I'm looking at about $2,500 to swap over to that setup minus grapple.

What about much simpler clamp-on pallet forks? If you just want to carry tree trunks occasionally clamp-on pallet forks are fine. You are using your tractor <40 engine hours per year.

This firm makes very high quality medium-duty clamp-on pallet forks with capacity matched to your current tractor for $649 delivered:

 
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   / Should I "Upgrade"? #9  
Branson does not use a Diesel Particulate Filter technology. (DPF)
Branson does use a DPF, however, it's like a bolt on system with it's own data logger. The Kukje/Cummins engine it's mechanically injected and doesn't need/have an ECM to run it. Basically meaning that the DPF can magically fall off without the risk of the tractor going into limp mode.

Plus the rest of the tractor has as little electronics as possible, making it very easy to work on without being stuck to the dealer with the proprietary software and diagnosing equipment.
 
   / Should I "Upgrade"? #10  
Sounds like you have a decent tractor, and this isn't a real good time to change. A few years ago or a few years from now maybe....

Consider loading yours down with weights, and all the stuff you have been wanting. Check that the hydraulic pressure is at max and spring for some wheel weights and a winch. Maybe wheel spacers... Beef it up. I'll bet it has ability you haven't tapped.
rScotty
 
   / Should I "Upgrade"?
  • Thread Starter
#12  
The only thing I don't like is it is fairly lightweight and has trouble hauling decent sized logs out of the woods with me cutting them in 8ft or so size sections.

Are the rear tires on your current tractor filled 50% to 75% with liquid?

Are you dragging logs using chains from the rear/center drawbar to the load, or using chains from a Three Point Hitch cross drawbar to the load? (Which?)




I'd like to add a grapple to it, but with a quick attach bucket or 3rd function I'm looking at about $2,500 to swap over to that setup minus grapple.

What about much simpler clamp-on pallet forks? If you just want to carry tree trunks occasionally clamp-on pallet forks are fine. You are using your tractor
This firm makes very high quality medium-duty clamp-on pallet forks with capacity matched to your current tractor for $649 delivered:

I use a 3 point boom and log tongs. The issue is mainly up inclines and the fact I have to drag them 1/2 to 3/4 mile to get them back to the house.

The pallet forks would be sufficient except I need to also have the ability to grab piles of random debris.
 
   / Should I "Upgrade"?
  • Thread Starter
#13  
They also don't have a 60hp tractor and their closest models don't have HST. IfI go to a power shuttle it will be on a utility tractor and not a compact utility.
 
   / Should I "Upgrade"?
  • Thread Starter
#15  
They also don't have a 60hp tractor and their closest models don't have HST. IfI go to a power shuttle it will be on a utility tractor and not a compact utility.
This was in reference to Branson. Tapatalk didn't grab the quote for some reason.
 
   / Should I "Upgrade"? #16  
I use a 3 point boom and log tongs. The issue is mainly up inclines and the fact I have to drag them 1/2 to 3/4 mile to get them back to the house.

FULL ANSWERS, please.

Are the rear tires on your current tractor filled 50% to 75% with liquid?

Are you carrying TPH counterbalance when using the FEL for heavy loads?

If your tires are spinning going up hill, meaning loss of traction, you need more weight or forestry tires or possibly tire chains.

If tires are not spinning, your HST may be pooping out. Check your HST/hydraulic fluid. Some tractor brands HSTs transfer engine power to the wheels more efficiently than other brands. A power shuttle gear tractor will transfer engine power to the wheels more effeciently than an HST hydraulic power transfer (pump) system.
 
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   / Should I "Upgrade"? #18  
This was in reference to Branson. Tapatalk didn't grab the quote for some reason.
They have the 5520 (55HP) both shuttle shift or HST, also Cab or ROPS. Then they have the 5835R (58HP), which is indeed a power shuttle.
 
   / Should I "Upgrade"? #19  
The pallet forks would be sufficient except I need to also have the ability to grab piles of random debris.

Then consider round-tine manure forks, sold under different names, one name being ULTRA FORKS. Round-tines sieve dirt.

 
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   / Should I "Upgrade"?
  • Thread Starter
#20  
FULL ANSWERS, please.

Are the rear tires on your current tractor filled 50% to 75% with liquid?

Are you carrying TPH counterbalance when using the FEL for heavy loads?

If your tires are spinning going up hill, meaning loss of traction, you need more weight or forestry tires or possibly tire chains.

If tires are not spinning, your HST may be pooping out. Check your HST/hydraulic fluid. Some tractor brands HSTs transfer engine power to the wheels more efficiently than other brands. A power shuttle gear tractor will transfer engine power to the wheels more effeciently than an HST hydraulic power transfer (pump) system.
Should I type my answers in caps as well?

Tires are not filled, but should be. I don't need a counter balance on the 3 point hitch when I stated my issue is pulling logs with a 3 point hitch boom. Yes, weight is added to the FEL when there is a significant weight on the rear.

The tires are spinning. It is a lack of traction on the front end when climbing an incline...mainly out of sandy creeks.

The weight of the Mahindra is not significantly more, but that is all it takes sometimes depending on the weight of the log. The fact that the FEL has a higher weight rating would allow more counter balance weight as well. While it won't be a significantly noticeable difference it is still worth considering.

You're also right that it isn't the greatest time to negotiate a deal on a tractor. However, it is a great time to make a purchase when you need a tax deduction to offset your farm profits.
 

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