John deere 301a diesel acting like it's starving for fuel and stalls

[somanytractors]

I just bought this. It had been sitting for a while due to a transmission problem.
We put a battery in it and it started right up and ran fine for a good 5 minutes, then it stalled and wouldn't start back up.
Next day it started right up but it only runs a few seconds and quits again.
When it starts it runs normal for about a second, then it idles down, and finally stalls like it's starving for fuel. This is a matter of 2 or 3 seconds.
If you try to start it again right away all it does is turn over. After sitting for a few minutes it will start again.
I figured it was the filter so I replaced the filter, same thing.
Took out the screen at the inlet to clean it but it's actually pretty clean. Cleaned it anyway but no difference.

I'm not exactly sure where to go next.
I'm pretty sure the fuel pump is fine, I used the little lever on it to refill and bleed the filter, and it does start after sitting. I have an electric one I can try.
If the return line is clogged could that cause it to do this?
It has an electric shut off. I thought about running a wire directly from the battery to it but when I traced the wire back I found that it connects to a relay, breaker, or something. I've attached a pic of it. It only has 2 wires, one from the ign and one to the shutoff. Can I safely bypass that or does it have to be in the wire?

Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

 

[LouNY]

Check the return line to the tank, disconnect it at the pump and just run a hose to a bucket and run it.
When the return from the pump gets plugged that is what it will do.
Those old Roosa Masters were a good pump and moderately easy to work on.

Your electrical looks like a circuit breaker.

 

[Tx Jim]

I agree fuel return line is probably blocked. My guess is glass ball check valve in inj pump is clogged. Simplest test is loosen the 2 screws securing inj pump timing window, if stuck pry gasket loose from pump body. Start engine & if engine runs longer check valve is clogged. Proper solution is replacing drive ring in inj [pump which requires disassembly of IP. Ditto elect connector is a circuit breaker

 

[somanytractors]

Thanks for the help LouNY and Tx Jim.
I'll look into the return line, and the check valve.
I'll let you know what I find.

 

[thepumpguysc]

U CAN run a hot wire to the solenoid..
When checking the “return connector” at the top of the pump, remove it entirely from the pump..
If followed correctly, u should be looking at a hole in the top cover..
I don’t like using the side cover to do that check..
The gasket is old and 9x outta 10 it’s old and rips..
Now on top of shutting off, u gotta leak to deal with..

 

[Tx Jim]

The gasket is old and 9x outta 10 it’s old and rips..
Now on top of shutting off, u gotta leak to deal with..

I'm sure you've seen a lot more inj pumps than I have ever seen but I've never had that rubber seal damaged to the point it leaked. If loosening window causes a leak that leak wouldn't bother me because IP needs to be repaired & a new rubber seal could be installed at that time.

 

[somanytractors]

Thanks thepumpguysc.
I'll probably go this route. It just sounds easier to me.
I was going to start with disconnecting the hose anyway. Just as easy to remove the fitting.

Thanks

 

[Wagtail]

You haven't mentioned if you've had a look in the fuel tank for a biological growth?

An inspection camera will give you the answer.

 

[somanytractors]

It's back to running fine!
I took the return line off, and the connector like thepumpguysc said.
The check valve in the connector was stuck solid.
Worked it back and forth a bunch of times with a small drift punch, cleaned it out as best I could, and put it back together.
Runs fine now. I'll probably go ahead and replace the valve but right now I need to drive it backwards because it wont go forwards to my shop so I can fix the tranny so it will go forwards again.

Thanks everyone for the help!!!!

 

[somanytractors]

Well that was short lived.
Ran fine for a few minutes.
I moved it a bit and then it quit. Took out the valve again and it was packed full of crud.
Cleaned it and it ran again and then quit again.
Think I'm gonna put a fitting in place of the valve so I can run it for a bit and get all the crud out of the pump.
I did manage to get it where I wanted it at least.

 

[LouNY]

Is the "crud" black rubbery pieces?
If so;
It will need a new flex ring.
They are fairly easy to work on and there are several videos out on you tube showing how.
or
send it off to someone such as the pumpguy or your local shop and have it gone through,
one other option that used to be fairly common was for a mechanic to come out to the field and put in a new flex ring right on the tractor.

 

[somanytractors]

Is the "crud" black rubbery pieces?
If so;
It will need a new flex ring.
They are fairly easy to work on and there are several videos out on you tube showing how.
or
send it off to someone such as the pumpguy or your local shop and have it gone through,
one other option that used to be fairly common was for a mechanic to come out to the field and put in a new flex ring right on the tractor.

Actually, I believe some of it is bits of black rubber, and I think it's been sitting for years which is never good for rubber.
I'll look into changing that ring. I'm sure I can change it, and if I need help I know exactly where to come.

Thanks )
John

 

[thepumpguysc]

Stanadyne as the manufacturer is called now, makes a piece that takes the place of the plastic flex ring..

 

[somanytractors]

Stanadyne as the manufacturer is called now, makes a piece that takes the place of the plastic flex ring..

Thanks.
I'll look into that.

Thanks again for all the help

 

[somanytractors]

UPDATE:
I finally got back to this machine. It got put on the back burner for a bit.
The flex ring was completely shot and in a million tiny pieces.
I replaced it and cleaned all the tiny bits out of the pump and return valve, and it runs like a charm now.
I was surprised how similar this pump is to the cav pumps. I thought it was a whole different monster and I was a little leery of taking it apart, but once I had it apart it wasn't all that complicated.
I did go with the rubber flex ring, mostly because it came with the rebuild kit.
Another old tractor saved.

Thanks everyone for the help!
John