R14 ag tires

[CoyPatton]

There are pros and cons to any tread pattern tire whether it be for your car or truck or tractors or other equipment. As the OP said he mainly does hay work, the Industrial R4’s are probably a better choice for him for most of his work. In my opinion the R4 is/was(?) a compromise between a heavy Ag lug (R1) and a turf (R3). But somewhat poorly done. It the R4 would fill with mud, or other sticky materials almost as quickly as a R3. This made it not much improvement over the R3 in many ways. It seems this lug change is way over due for the R4 instead of calling it a R14. Again my opinion.
Another opinion, unless it quickly has a greater selection of available size options, it will die a quick death.
My rationale, if I am looking at a new tractor (I am NOT) and the tractor is priced with the R14’s. I ask about going to a different tire, perhaps I plan to do hay with the tractor, and the selling point on the tire raises concerns on tearing up the field (hay) and I ask about going to R4’s if I find that out! My understanding is it will require new wheels also. (Correct me if I am wrong.) So with no experience on these tires and salesman pitch to go on, am I going to want what I know (R4’s) or try something new that I may be disappointed with and cost me more time and money to repair damage?

 

[ruffdog]

There are pros and cons to any tread pattern tire whether it be for your car or truck or tractors or other equipment. In my opinion the R4 is/was(?) a compromise between a heavy Ag lug (R1) and a turf (R3).

Well, not really. There is much more to a tire than what the tread looks like. The tire carcass design of the r1/r4/r3 greatly differ between the 3 for their specific purposes. It is the customer that compromises when they pick a specific tire when they use it for different purposes.

 

[Ishkatan]

I got a new RK37HC tractor and specified R14 tires. I think it was a mistake. They get caked in mud and spin on my hilly terrain, and leave ruts if the ground has any moisture on it. The tractor is heavy, over 5,000 lbs with the loader on, and because they spin on the slightest incline I'm always going into 4 wheel drive.

The cross section is rounded like ag tires but the tread in the middle is dense, like turf tires. I thought the wide spacing on the sides would help with grip going up and down my hill but at the recommended factory pressure with beet juice in them they maintain the rounded profile and the center tread digs in and fills with mud, so they slip. New tractor has a diff lock but even then both rears can spin, so I have to be in 4 wheel drive mode - which tears up the ground on tight turns. My hindsight now tells me I should have gotten R3's - at least the cross section is flatter to distribute the weight. I am also going to let the air pressure drop a bit to see if the contact patch can be made flatter, but I can't really take air out because when I try beet juice comes out. Further exploration as I learn about my new machine.

My old 8N with R1's struggled up the hill just fine - though in soft ground situations I had to break a spinning wheel on the steepest part.

 

[Bill Guenthner]

anyone have any thoughts pro/con on this tire type? interesting looking tread. I have used R4 industrial tires on my previous tractors. Thinking this might be a viable option.

thanks,

- Messicks.Ecommerce

 

[ruffdog]

I got a new RK37HC tractor and specified R14 tires. I think it was a mistake. They get caked in mud and spin on my hilly terrain, and leave ruts if the ground has any moisture on it. The tractor is heavy, over 5,000 lbs with the loader on, and because they spin on the slightest incline I'm always going into 4 wheel drive.

The cross section is rounded like ag tires but the tread in the middle is dense, like turf tires. I thought the wide spacing on the sides would help with grip going up and down my hill but at the recommended factory pressure with beet juice in them they maintain the rounded profile and the center tread digs in and fills with mud, so they slip. New tractor has a diff lock but even then both rears can spin, so I have to be in 4 wheel drive mode - which tears up the ground on tight turns. My hindsight now tells me I should have gotten R3's - at least the cross section is flatter to distribute the weight. I am also going to let the air pressure drop a bit to see if the contact patch can be made flatter, but I can't really take air out because when I try beet juice comes out. Further exploration as I learn about my new machine.

My old 8N with R1's struggled up the hill just fine - though in soft ground situations I had to break a spinning wheel on the steepest part.

Are your R14's radials? What ply rating are they? What pressure do they recommend? With that pressure, will the tire tread sit down flat on pavement or is it still "rounded" where it touches the ground? At what pressure will the tire tread be flat to the pavement?

 

[oosik]

I've never had conditions like Chesapeakeboy pictured. Even in the worse of conditions - I can get by with R-1's. I may tear a whole in the earth but I will get thru. The R-14 look good but I need the chevron pattern of R-1's - not the center highway pattern of the R-14's.

Besides - it's only taken a couple times to learn where to, when to go and when to sit at home and wait.

 

[LouNY]

Myself in field conditions I would NEVER use R4's if I have a choice.
I would be more then willing to try the new R14's otherwise I'll go with R1's or even an R3 before an R4.
I also have no use for the R1W they are about like the old rice and cane extreme mud only tire.
From what I've seen too many times the rear tire pressures are way too high on many tractors, I
normally run 12-15 psi in my rears on the R1's.

 

[Xfaxman]

I am also going to let the air pressure drop a bit to see if the contact patch can be made flatter, but I can't really take air out because when I try beet juice comes out.

With the valve stem up at the top, you should not lose much beet juice.

 

[5030]

I'm a bit intrigued by them as well.

Buying a new tractor would be the most practical time to try them. Hard to justify buying 4 tires for a tractor just to change tread patterns.

Not unless you have a lot of spendable income. I'm in the process of re shoeing my open station M9 with Trelleborg R1 radials to the tune of 5500 bucks for 4 tires. I got 6000+ hours out of the original Titan R1 bias tires and it's time. They have a little tread left but are getting sidewall cracks pretty bad.

One thing I'll never do is load any rears. I much prefer cast centers.

 

[WM75Guy]

One thing I'll never do is load any rears. I much prefer cast centers.

I agree, as do my tire guys.