Hydraulic Top Link?

[MinnesotaMorg]

I recently purchased a 4707 that I haven't even taken delivery of. In another thread we were discussing snowblowing some and now I'm sitting here thinking did I make a mistake by not having the dealer install a hydraulic top link. I was planning on redoing my driveway with a boxblade (at least I think thats what ill be using), along with using a rear mount snowblower.

I guess my question's are:

1) everything I have read says I should get a hydraulic top link for using a box blade, will I hate my life if I dont have it? For snowblowing I normally would just set my tilt one time and go right?

2) if I get the hydraulic top link, that uses a rear remote right? Should I have a 3rd remote installed?

Thanks
Morgan

 

[Cycledude]

I use a hydraulic top link with all my 3point hookup stuff and love it, makes top link adjustments quick and easy anytime.
My LS tractor came from the factory equipped with three rear remotes, that was one of the big reasons I chose LS.

 

[RjCorazza]

Box blade use is much easier with a hydraulic toplink. I basically use my hydraulic toplink for the ease of the initial adjustment when switching implements.
For my blower (which uses both rear remotes) I have a permanently adjusted manual toplink that is dedicated to that implement. I do wish I had speced my tractor with 3 rear remotes.

 

[oosik]

I bought and installed a FitRite hydraulic top link. It was just - plug in two hydraulic hoses - done. I use the hydraulic top link for all of my ground engagement implements. Even my Wallenstein PTO chipper - easy to get the chipper sitting flat on the ground.

It takes my implements from - "that's close enough to being set right" to "exactly perfect setting" and all with a twitch of the hydraulic lever. It even make implement hook up easier.

I KNOW I was upset that I waited a couple years before purchasing the top link. The old procedure - stop the tractor, get down, twist-twist-twist - get back up- go a short distance - stop the tractor - etc, etc - got mighty old, mighty quick.

Get additional rear remotes if you plan on an implement that needs them. I have a VERY HEAVY Rhino rear blade. It's 100% manual. I do use the top link with this rear blade. Added rear remotes would be for tilt and angle. I only have one rear remote.

Having three rear remotes is not necessary in my case. Tilt and angle are set and not changed while the rear blade is in use. The hydraulic tilt and angle would have made my $3700 rear blade cost another $1500. Plus the cost of having the dealer add two more rear remotes.

I have NEVER regretted having only one rear remote.

 

[bdhsfz6]

I use the hyd. top link with almost every implement I own and would never be without one.

Yes, it requires a rear remote valve but I have seen some who run hoses forward and connect to a 3rd function valve.

If it were me, I'd have the extra rear remote added. Sure, it adds $$ but well worth the cost IMO.

 

[npalen]

I installed a four spool rear remote as I sometimes need three and four really costs very little more and doesn't take up much additional room. May need the fourth spool in the future.

https://summit-hydraulics.com/product/monoblock-hydraulic-directional-control-valve-4-spool-11-gpm/

 

[Citydude]

Add the 3rd remote. It's a small percentage of the total package that your investing in.

 

[MinnesotaMorg]

Okay I had them add the 3rd remote. Didn't think it was going to be that much lol but good grief. Top link is on back order, do I need the AGCO one or is there others that are better?

 

[Waltert]

Hydraulic Toplink are so good, total ease to hook up and adjust implement, must have in my book.

 

[ericm979]

The angle of the box blade determines how aggressively it cuts in. You can go from hardly cutting anything to wedging down and stopping the tractor. The right angle for conditions allows it to grab the right amount of dirt for what you are doing.

With the turnbuckle top link you have to get off and turn it by hand to make a change. With the hydraulic link you can do it from the seat. People have made the turnbuckle link work for decades. But the hydraulic link sure makes it easier. In my case it lets me get the tractor with the chipper in and out of the barn, which has a steep short ramp at the door. I need to lift the chipper as high as it will go so it does not scrape.

Top links are pretty easy to find. You don't need a dealer supplied one. But since you have not received the tractor yet, you can ask the dealer what one would cost. The remotes are probably also a dealer add on, so you might as well ask about that too. I got three remotes and top and tilt from the dealer and am very happy I got all of it.

 

[Number15]

I'm 1 day in on my new tractor with hyd top link. I'm already spoiled, it's so awesome to adjust stuff with just a button My frustration factor is down 10x

 

[MinnesotaMorg]

The dealer says the top link is back ordered, he sent me the website of the one they use I'm assuming. Is there a good way to tell what one to get? I feel there are a bunch of aftermarket, is there one that AGCO sells themselves?

 

[ericm979]

What you need is the correct category for your hitch (cat 1 or 2) and retracted and extended lengths in the right range. You can select a valve with pilot operated check valves or one without. If you want it to be able to float, get without. If your valves leak, then the check valve will keep the link from moving while the tractor is sitting.

You can wind your turnbuckle top link in and out to get the lengths to start with though you could go with something different. If it's too long you won't be able to retract it enough and the implements will drop farther than needed.

You'll also need hydraulic fittings to adapt the ports on the cylinder to your hoses and fittings to adapt the hoses to quick connects. You can use small diameter hoses for this, 5/16 or 1/4, as the flow is low.

 

[msb1766]

I just bought a hydraulic top link from here:http://haytools.com/TNT.htm
Had it in 3 days.

 

[bdhsfz6]

The dealer says the top link is back ordered, he sent me the website of the one they use I'm assuming. Is there a good way to tell what one to get? I feel there are a bunch of aftermarket, is there one that AGCO sells themselves?

In addition to the above, you also need to check the clearance between the cylinder hyd. ports and nearby 3pt hitch gear. Sometimes, top mounted ports work better than side ports on some tractors.

 

[oosik]

bdhsfz6 makes an excellent point. Check for clearances between your current top link and any nearby 3-point gear. You may need a hydraulic top link with the hydraulic ports on top of the cylinder.

Your hydraulic top link will be about 3" to 3 1//2" in overall diameter.

Mine come out the side. But I have lots of room back there.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

The dealer says the top link is back ordered, he sent me the website of the one they use I'm assuming. Is there a good way to tell what one to get? I feel there are a bunch of aftermarket, is there one that AGCO sells themselves?

The following unit is probably the best off the shelf unit available for your tractor.

https://www.agristoreusa.com/collections/category-2-hydraulic-top-links/products/category-2-hydraulic-top-link-23-5-8-34-11-16

 

[MinnesotaMorg]

Thanks everyone for chiming in, this is just yet another thing I have zero experience in and I'm trying to cram likely years of knowledge and understanding into a short period of time. Pardon me if I am asking newbie questions, I feel like the manufacturer doesn't provide easily accessible information regarding the 3pt and attachments.

If you want it to be able to float, get without.

I guess I'm not sure if I want to float or not. I am thinking I dont. I plan on using a snowblower, box blade, and I recently ordered a CP572 brush cutter. I think all of these I want to be able to hold it so it doesn't ride up when they meet resistance. But if I remove the ability to float on the 3 point, what am I giving up? maybe using a bush hog would be a little more rough as it wouldn't follow the ground as well?

off the shelf unit available for your tractor.

How did you determine that this was the appropriate one? I am new so maybe I'm missing something but when searching for information on my tractors top link I couldn't find specifics for length etc. The most I found was in the MF4700 product book it stated the tractor was cat 2 with fixed ball ends. I feel like I must not be using the right search terms because this seems like it should be easier to find measurements for the top link. Either way I appreciate the help, depending on if I need float or not I'll likely order this just to have something ready to rock when the tractor comes in.

Is anyone able to comment on the difference between the one mtnview suggested, Fitrite, and Haytools? It seems like fitrite is just one guy? Is he the equivalent to someone custom building violins vs just buying one at guitar center?

 

[Williy]

oosik you forgot its twist and shout, twist and shout

I purchased the LS Landgrader don't need the
scarifies this unit works very well without them.

willy

 

[Xfaxman]

Is anyone able to comment on the difference between the one mtnview suggested, Fitrite, and Haytools? It seems like fitrite is just one guy?

Yep, one guy named MtnViewRanch

Is he the equivalent to someone custom building violins vs just buying one at guitar center?

Yep, he custom builds top and tilt cylinders.