I have a Massey Ferguson 1533 year 2006 It's is overheating to a the max and past I replaced the Thermostat flush the sytem with water What else

[mgfrank]

I have a Massey Ferguson 1533 year 2006 It's is overheating to a the max and past I replaced the Thermostat flush the system with water. Still over heats less than 15 minutes what else could it be ? Oil is fine no sign of water in the oil no leaks. any Idea's what I should do ? Thanks Frank

Upon further inspection the culprit was the overflow outlet pipe by the radiator cap had a hole when hot coolant would leak out and run low since i was in the field I did not see any wet spots looks like the only fix is a new radiator the pipe is plastic $800 plus for a new radiator AUGHGGGGGGGG. Its suppose to be a closed pressurized system.
Thanks for all the responses

 

[bearthebruce]

blow the radiator out to clear the chaff and debris?

That was not in your list of things you have done..

Is the fan operating properly?

We have a 2005 1533... She runs like a top - 450+ hours..

Only overheating has been when the screen was packed with garbage or the fins in the radiator were.. we are constantly cleaning both during mowing season.

 

[Randy Gann]

I would pull out the thermostat and try running it without one. If it runs ok and does not overheat then the thermostat is not opening.

 

[lpakiz]

First, grab the fan blade by hand (engine of, of course) and see if you can make the fan turn without turning the engine. If you can turn the fan, tighten or replace the belt. This is the first, and easiest and cheapest test you can do.
If the belt is driving the fan, you will hear a distinct roar or buzzing from the fan at WOT.
Next, slip a trouble light (or any light bulb) in beside the fan blades. Do this inside, or on an overcast day. Then look in from the front of the tractor. You should be able to CLEARLY see the light, as well as the rows of tubes and fins. If you can't, you need to either blow out the core or hit it CAREFULLY with a pressure washer, until you can clearly see light all the way thru the core.
OK, NOW you can move on to thermostats, head gaskets, cracked head, head gasket, water pump, etc.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I would pull out the thermostat and try running it without one. If it runs ok and does not overheat then the thermostat is not opening.

Thermostat could be in backwards.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Biggest spring on thermostat goes toward engine. I say that because some brands have two. If it wasn't overheating before and all you did was change the thermostat........

 

[ovrszd]

Crank engine with radiator cap off. When engine temp climbs to operating range the thermostat will open. This will cause movement of coolant in radiator. When engine temp climbs above normal the thermostat will be completely open. The movement of coolant will increase. If you've never watched the coolant circulate you don't have to look closely for "slight" movement. It will be obvious the water pump is working. If you don't see movement, the water pump isn't working.

Check that and report back.

 

[bearthebruce]

@ovrszd, that's a great point! water pump.. check the flow - tests thermostat and water pump all at once. (I remember doing that back when I was younger on my '58 Ford.. )

Fits with his 15 minute run time too!

I appreciate the knowledge on this forum.. I hope the OP soon reports his findings.

 

[rScotty]

First of all, start with the basics. How do you know it is overheating? Are you getting steam and a jet of boiling water when the radiator cap energency overpressure vent opens? You won't miss that happening! It makes a lot of noise and steam!
Or is it just reading too hot on a gauge or indicator light?
Have you measured the temperature?

When cleaning a radiator fins I never use a pressure washer. Fins are too fragile. Use a paint brush, dish soap and and garden hose with a mild spray. Clean from the fan side forward.

It's probably the thermostat. I've seen lots of bad thermostats, but can't recall ever seeing a water pump where the fan turned but it didn't pump.

You might want to check the antifreeze. Most older tractors use a glycol based antifreeze, and using 100% glycol in any system will give problems if the system isn't working well. Pure glycol doesn't transfer heat all that well. You want a 50/50 mix of glycol and water.

Auto parts stores sell jusgs of either pure 100% ethylene glycol or a 50/50 mix of glycol antifreeze and water. I've seen them mixed on the same shelf. So check the label; they expect the buyer to know the difference. The best solution for heat transfer is 50/50 antifreeze and water.

If none of this works - and then chances are you have an old hose that has collapsed or a radiator with plugged tubes.
rScotty

 

[mgfrank]

blow the radiator out to clear the chaff and debris?

That was not in your list of things you have done..

Is the fan operating properly?

We have a 2005 1533... She runs like a top - 450+ hours..

Only overheating has been when the screen was packed with garbage or the fins in the radiator were.. we are constantly cleaning both during mowing season.

blow the radiator out to clear the chaff and debris?

That was not in your list of things you have done..

Is the fan operating properly?

We have a 2005 1533... She runs like a top - 450+ hours..

Only overheating has been when the screen was packed with garbage or the fins in the radiator were.. we are constantly cleaning both during mowing season.

Upon further inspection the culprit was the overflow outlet pipe by the radiator cap had a hole when hot coolant would leak out and run low since i was in the field I did not see any wet spots looks like the only fix is a new radiator the pipe is plastic $800 plus for a new radiator AUGHGGGGGGGG. Its suppose to be a closed pressurized system.
Thanks for all the responses

 

[mgfrank]

First of all, start with the basics. How do you know it is overheating? Are you getting steam and a jet of boiling water when the radiator cap energency overpressure vent opens? You won't miss that happening! It makes a lot of noise and steam!
Or is it just reading too hot on a gauge or indicator light?
Have you measured the temperature?

When cleaning a radiator fins I never use a pressure washer. Fins are too fragile. Use a paint brush, dish soap and and garden hose with a mild spray. Clean from the fan side forward.

It's probably the thermostat. I've seen lots of bad thermostats, but can't recall ever seeing a water pump where the fan turned but it didn't pump.

You might want to check the antifreeze. Most older tractors use a glycol based antifreeze, and using 100% glycol in any system will give problems if the system isn't working well. Pure glycol doesn't transfer heat all that well. You want a 50/50 mix of glycol and water.

Auto parts stores sell jusgs of either pure 100% ethylene glycol or a 50/50 mix of glycol antifreeze and water. I've seen them mixed on the same shelf. So check the label; they expect the buyer to know the difference. The best solution for heat transfer is 50/50 antifreeze and water.

If none of this works - and then chances are you have an old hose that has collapsed or a radiator with plugged tubes.
rScotty

Upon further inspection the culprit was the overflow outlet pipe by the radiator cap had a hole when hot coolant would leak out and run low since i was in the field I did not see any wet spots looks like the only fix is a new radiator the pipe is plastic $800 plus for a new radiator AUGHGGGGGGGG. Its suppose to be a closed pressurized system.
Thanks for all the responses

 

[mgfrank]

@ovrszd, that's a great point! water pump.. check the flow - tests thermostat and water pump all at once. (I remember doing that back when I was younger on my '58 Ford.. )

Fits with his 15 minute run time too!

I appreciate the knowledge on this forum.. I hope the OP soon reports his findings.

Upon further inspection the culprit was the overflow outlet pipe by the radiator cap had a hole when hot coolant would leak out and run low since i was in the field I did not see any wet spots looks like the only fix is a new radiator the pipe is plastic $800 plus for a new radiator AUGHGGGGGGGG. Its suppose to be a closed pressurized system.
Thanks for all the responses

 

[ovrszd]

I'd go to O'Reilly's or whatever auto parts store you prefer and talk to them about plastic repair. Something like JB Weld. It doesn't have to hold pressure. There's only water there when the radiator cap is "overflowing" into the puke tank. Then again when the system cools off and the radiator cap allows coolant to be drawn from the tank.

I'd sure try that before I spent $800 for a new radiator.

 

[mgfrank]

I'd go to O'Reilly's or whatever auto parts store you prefer and talk to them about plastic repair. Something like JB Weld. It doesn't have to hold pressure. There's only water there when the radiator cap is "overflowing" into the puke tank. Then again when the system cools off and the radiator cap allows coolant to be drawn from the tank.

I'd sure try that before I spent $800 for a new radiator.

Thanks That was my first thought Parts for the Massey are really expensive they want over $50 for the radiator Cap.

 

[mgfrank]

I'd go to O'Reilly's or whatever auto parts store you prefer and talk to them about plastic repair. Something like JB Weld. It doesn't have to hold pressure. There's only water there when the radiator cap is "overflowing" into the puke tank. Then again when the system cools off and the radiator cap allows coolant to be drawn from the tank.

I'd sure try that before I spent $800 for a new radiator.

Thanks That was my first thought Parts for the Massey are really expensive they want over $50 for the radiator Cap.

 

[bearthebruce]

Glad you found the problem... sorry the cost is so high.

Did you look for a radiator repair shop? Shirley they could help?

 

[lpakiz]

There is a kit that pressurizes the radiator as well as checks the cap for proper pressure before it spits out into your broken pipe. It consists of a hand pump, a built-in gauge, a short hose and several adaptor caps to fit different radiators, as well as adapts to several styles of caps. You can pressurize your radiator to find external leaks, and also test your cap to see if it holds proper pressure. A radiator shop should be able to help, as well as any well-equipped car/truck repair shop.
I don't think the broken plastic pipe should come into play until AFTER the radiator cap relieves pressure. The question becomes "why is the cap relieving pressure?" And if the gauge is indicating "over temp", it's immaterial where the water went. What matters is why it escaped in the first place. I understand that water can escape the pressure cap at overpressure and suck it back in when it cools down. But again, why did it escape in the first place! Either the cap is weak, or there truly was too much pressure, in which case, it's good that the cap relieved this excess pressure.

Did you check that the belt is driving the fan at 100% engagement?
Did you look thru the radiator at a light bulb behind the core?
Just because the fan seems to be turning doesn't mean it's turning fast enough to cool the radiator, especially at jobs requiring lots of HP.
Simple, cheap things first.

 

[lpakiz]

Hers is what a clean radiator looks like....

 

[mgfrank]

There is a kit that pressurizes the radiator as well as checks the cap for proper pressure before it spits out into your broken pipe. It consists of a hand pump, a built-in gauge, a short hose and several adaptor caps to fit different radiators, as well as adapts to several styles of caps. You can pressurize your radiator to find external leaks, and also test your cap to see if it holds proper pressure. A radiator shop should be able to help, as well as any well-equipped car/truck repair shop.
I don't think the broken plastic pipe should come into play until AFTER the radiator cap relieves pressure. The question becomes "why is the cap relieving pressure?" And if the gauge is indicating "over temp", it's immaterial where the water went. What matters is why it escaped in the first place. I understand that water can escape the pressure cap at overpressure and suck it back in when it cools down. But again, why did it escape in the first place! Either the cap is weak, or there truly was too much pressure, in which case, it's good that the cap relieved this excess pressure.

Did you check that the belt is driving the fan at 100% engagement?
Did you look thru the radiator at a light bulb behind the core?
Just because the fan seems to be turning doesn't mean it's turning fast enough to cool the radiator, especially at jobs requiring lots of HP.
Simple, cheap things first.

Thats a good point I see if I can check the cap Thanks

 

[ovrszd]

Just going from what you have described so far.

The leaking puke tank tube dumps coolant when the cap burps. Then when the system cools the cap tries to replenish the coolant it burped, but all it gets is air. Pretty soon the system is low on coolant and begins to overheat. The operator looks at the puke tank and it's full. But if the radiator cap is opened when the system is cool the operator will see the radiator is low.

Everything built in the last 20 years or more uses this method. Unless something fails they never puke any coolant outside the system. Excellent concept. Never have to add coolant unless something fails.

My two 80s Fords use the old style system. No puke tank. If they heat to the point of releasing pressure from the radiator cap they puke coolant outside the system. This requires checking the system by opening the radiator cap when cool and refilling if low.