mid mount mower or 3pt finishing mower

[4570Man]

My first pick is neither. A ZT mower is WAY better. But given that choice I’d rather have a rear finish mower. They’re easier to hookup, probably cheaper to buy, definitely better resale and you can back them under low hanging trees. Even if it’s a tall tree without low branches a finish mower cuts against trees faster IMO.

 

[mo1]

Hello All, long time lurker, here to ask my first question - we just bought a small property @ 9acres, with abt 2-3 acres of grass
I need to get a compact or subcompact tractor and think a 3pt finishing mower might be better than the drive over mid mounts that are available?
The grass is pretty rough and has some areas where a low mounted mower might risk high center on that size tractor.
I don't need a brush cutter though.

What are your experiences using a 3pt finishing mower vs a mid mount mower on a small tractor (sub 30hp) ?
Thanks in advance

A mid mount (belly) mower will make the tractor much more maneuverable for mowing, which depending on your yard, can be a huge advantage. A rear finish mower hangs back there a ways and is not very maneuverable at all, they are not too fun to mow with if there are very many obstacles, they are not that bad for wide open areas. However, many belly mowers are much more difficult to take on and off compared to a rear finish mower (some of the drive over ones excepted), and they are pretty specific for that tractor as well. They also tend to be noticeably more expensive than a rear finishing mower.

A wider mower will tend to high center more easily than a narrower mower, and also a mower set to cut at a higher height will have fewer issues than one set to cut lower. This is true regardless if the mower is a belly mower, front deck, or rear 3 point mount.

 

[duffer]

I've had a 3 pt mower for over 5 years now. It's not perfect, but I'd take it anyday over a MMM or even a ZT.

If your acreage is anything like mine, it's more of a pasture rather than a sodded lawn. Which means its rough to ride on. The 3 pt extends the wheelbase of the tractor and mower combined to give you a smoother ride than a MMM, and light years better than a ZT with a very short wheel base, even with a suspension seat. I borrowed my neighbors ZT to cut my 5 acres and felt like it beat the snot out of me. Never again.

If you have a ton of trees to mow around, then a MMM or ZT would probably serve you well. I have several trees, but not 20/acre. If your trees in the mowing area are not abundant, you get used to the 3 pt finish mower, you learn how to manuver around them.

Others have given you plenty to consider on a MMM, but if you decide on a 3 pt, make sure you get 2 things:

1. Anti-scalp wheels (applies to any mower deck for that matter)
2. The widest mower your tractor can handle. I have a 7' wide and wish I had gotten an 8'. (38 hp) (but if you have a lot of steep hills to climb, then maybe not the widest, but next to the widest)

Now if your acreage is smooth as a baby's bottom then the ZT might be the answer.

 

[tacticalturnip]

re: cabs - I finally upgraded to a cab tractor 6 years ago, and there is no going back to an open station! I should have gotten a cab tractor much sooner. In the winter I plow in a T shirt, and stay cool in the summer.

I'm admittedly envious.

 

[diesel85]

^^ I keep thinking of getting a cab tractor the older I get.

As far as finishing mowers. I've used a 72" KingKutter and my 60" MMM, and the 3pt KingKutter does a better job at mulching and distribution of clippings. I think the blade tip speed is higher on the KingKutter or there is better lift because of the inherent design. I also like the 3pt finish mower because I can back under my pine trees so no hand mowing.

Next machine will likely be a cab, with a 3pt finish mower.

 

[Diggin It]

I slide mine under in the Spring, I mow all Summer and do whatever else I need to including backhoe work, then I pull it out in the Fall.

RFM would add too much length to work around some of the areas I need to mow.

 

[JJT]

Thanks for vid was very helpful - I've had a few larger tractors, 50 & 70hp, but not a sub 30hp. I just need to cut some grass, blow some snow, and normal landscape stuff. Think they are all mostly the same but biggest choice will be cab or not and I'm leaning towards a cab for Southern Ontario winter.

Do yourself a big favor, get the cab. That's my only regret with buying my L3710 20+ years ago, I should have ponied up the $4,500 for a heated/cooled oem cab.

 

[dodge man]

I personally like a mid mount. I have a John Deere with an auto connect deck and it’s pretty slick, on and off in less than 5 minutes. They have gotten easier to take off and on.

The good part of a mid mount is you can just look down and see the deck. The bad of a rear mower is as you turn away from an object, say a fence, the mower swings into it. You of course adjust and learn how to use it. The bad on a mid mount is cost, roughly twice a rear finish mower.

Just my opinion, if the mowing open and not a lot of things in the way, a rear finish is a good choice. Thing to mow around and you want more of the riding mower feeling, get a mid mount.

 

[Geunther]

I have used both. Mowing about 5 acres regularly, sometimes assist with neighbors 7 acre pastures

An older model (early 80's) IH 234 2WD with a woods 72 inch mmm. Hated taking that thing off with a passion. At least a half hour off, and an hour to put the thing back on. It was a lower HP tractor, but it ran the mower OK, if you kept up on the mowing. If you let it wait an extra week or two, then mowing time doubled. The tractor ran like a dream, but was just a bit underpowered for the mower that was mounted on it. Basically used it as a lawn mower, occasionally pulled a ground drive spreader or a chain harrow with the machine.

Currently am mowing with a NH TC33 4WD and a Land Pride 72 inch 3 point finish mower. Can now mow in less than half the time, it looks better, and handles tougher conditions with ease. Connect and Disconnect in 5 min. The machine is quite a bit longer, with the front end loader, seems like a bus compared to the IH. Plenty of power to drive the mower. Love the FEL, and the utility that comes with it. The TC33 has enough traction to plow the private road in the winter (about 1.2 miles), as well a pull any implement I need.

For me, the larger tractor is a game changer. I spend less time preparing and mowing with the larger tractor, it is more useful around the farm. The MMM was easier to drive, and maneuver, but took much longer when looking at the total picture, especially when it came to maintenance. Had to replace the belt on the MMM once every couple years, have been using the current belt on the Land Pride for 3 years, and it looks like new. Do yourself a favor, get a CUT, with more HP than you think you need. Get the cab, 4WD, HST and a decent FEL. You will be happier for your choices. I have almost never heard anyone say, 'I bought too much tractor'.

 

[JWR]

A few comments: I agree with most of 4570 inputs in post 11 except for the ZT preference. With 2-3 acres to mow it depends a whole bunch on what that 2-3 acres is like. If it is "lawn-like" the ZT would do a fine job but is useless for snow removal, etc. The small tractor will be radically more universal use to you than a ZT. I have used a 6' 3pt finish mower and found that they CAN do as nice a job as any but are a PITA for lack of maneuverability. Seem to have tire issues and belt issues more often then MMM for reasons I know not. The MMM is the most maneuverable and in my opinion does the best "lawn cut quality" job BUT your 2-3 acres might be very rough and lumpy -- we do not know. With some snow blowing to do you probably do not need to fool with the process of mounting and removal of a MMM plus as others said the 3pt can be resold far easier if need be. Your biggest $ issue is the cab. That's going to cost you more than the mower !