When to plane rough cut lumber?

[/pine]

FWIW...there can be insect larva etc.within the lumber even before it is sawed...simply air drying will not kill said larva etc...
An internal temperature of 140* is required to kill any insects in lumber (AKA kiln dried)...
This is true with powder puff beetles...

 

[civilian]

FWIW...there can be insect larva etc.within the lumber even before it is sawed...simply air drying will not kill said larva etc...
An internal temperature of 140* is required to kill any insects in lumber (AKA kiln dried)...
This is true with powder puff beetles...

I was also told this for the worms, larva(?) that were in the white pine I had dried by a Sawmill. Jon

 

[STAYSAFE]

I had some green rough cut red maple that I tried to dry but at the time I didn't have an open area. Before it could dry powder post beetles got to it. It takes plenty of air movement around the wood to remove the moisture. Too little and mold and infestation will result. I don't know if PPBs are an issue down there but putting green wood inside your basement could lead to bigger issues if bugs can get in.

Do you have a place on your property that's open enough to get plenty of air movement? How much is a bunch? 1" stickers are the minimum used around here. If you don't have too much wood you can try to make larger gaps to help flow.

I think you're real problem is how long it's going to take to dry. If it's as humid outside as you say then it's never going to get that dry. 20% might work for a simple shelf but even then I think it'll still move. I would like to see 12% or less before I do anything to wood. If higher you'll find that the center has more moisture and as you remove the outside of the wood you'll expose the wetter wood which will dry at a faster rate. If that's the case you need to be very careful to remove the same amount from each side and once removed make sure both sides of the wood have equal air flow. Otherwise the wood will dry more on one side than the other and it's not going to stay flat.

Typically when you buy kiln dried wood you like to bring it into your shop and let it sit for a few weeks to adjust to it's new environment.

“I think you're real problem....”
Your; you’re......pick one.......either one.

 

[Surshot]

George, you never dress green wood. It should be air dried to at least 20% before the wood is kiln dried.
If the air drying is on slats, stacked for suppert, the wood should stay straight. It may take months to dry in an enclosure.
Now if you are going to put wood in an AC or heat environment, stack it inside for at least 30 days first, it is going to shrink. I do not care what the moisture meter says, it will shrink. Then at 10% or less, plane it and cut and sand it.
If you want to kiln dry it, it should be 10% or less, before you saw, sand and finish it. That is the parameter for a gun stock.
A moisture meter should have settings for different species, if you get one, do use the white oak setting.
I buy furniture grade at 10% or less moisture and store it in a temp controlled environment, on racks.
This is my 391 Beretta Silver side Sporting 20” with my stock wood, it is a fair piece of wood.

 

[Egon]

Commercial sawmills will only accept logs at a certain moisture content. This ensures the milled lumber will meet standard specs when dried.

 

[jyoutz]

I just got a bench top planer. This question pertains to when to use it. I have some rough cut white oak planks. Most are a little over 1 inch in thickness. They were cut about a month ago and have been stacked on stickers in my basement since that time.

My plan is to make some built-in shelves out of them.

I know they need a lot longer to dry at this point.

But once they have dried sufficiently what is the timing of thickness planing them to their final (pre-sanding) dimension which will be around 3/4"? Should it be done well before I plan on building the shelves or right before I build them......of does the timing even matter once the rough cut boards are dried?

Any input much appreciated.

Sawmills plane lumber after they have been through the dry kiln.

 

[Egon]

A site with information on milling lumber. Long read but can be skipped through to find pertinent information. There is a very good index.

http://images.mofcom.gov.cn/gy/201310/2013102504430546.pdf

 

[jayhawk238]

George, you never dress green wood. It should be air dried to at least 20% before the wood is kiln dried.
If the air drying is on slats, stacked for suppert, the wood should stay straight. It may take months to dry in an enclosure.
Now if you are going to put wood in an AC or heat environment, stack it inside for at least 30 days first, it is going to shrink. I do not care what the moisture meter says, it will shrink. Then at 10% or less, plane it and cut and sand it.
If you want to kiln dry it, it should be 10% or less, before you saw, sand and finish it. That is the parameter for a gun stock.
A moisture meter should have settings for different species, if you get one, do use the white oak setting.
I buy furniture grade at 10% or less moisture and store it in a temp controlled environment, on racks.
This is my 391 Beretta Silver side Sporting 20” with my stock wood, it is a fair piece of wood.

WOW!! That is more than beautiful!! I am VERY jealous.

 

[N80]

George, you never dress green wood. It should be air dried to at least 20% before the wood is kiln dried.
If the air drying is on slats, stacked for suppert, the wood should stay straight. It may take months to dry in an enclosure.
Now if you are going to put wood in an AC or heat environment, stack it inside for at least 30 days first, it is going to shrink. I do not care what the moisture meter says, it will shrink. Then at 10% or less, plane it and cut and sand it.
If you want to kiln dry it, it should be 10% or less, before you saw, sand and finish it. That is the parameter for a gun stock.
A moisture meter should have settings for different species, if you get one, do use the white oak setting.
I buy furniture grade at 10% or less moisture and store it in a temp controlled environment, on racks.
This is my 391 Beretta Silver side Sporting 20” with my stock wood, it is a fair piece of wood.

Gorgeous wood on that Beretta.

I was aware not to plane it green. I rephrased my original question this way:

"I guess the better way to ask the question is, once the planks are dry is it okay to plane them even if it will be a long time before I build with them?"

The current game plan at this point is to let them dry another 3-4 months. I will get a moisture meter and monitor it. Once dry and within a month or two of building the shelves I will plane it and saw it. As someone else suggested I may leave it close to 1 inch thick for added stability against twisting etc. The shelves are going to be in a laundry room that doubles as my closet/dressing room and will be fairly simple and plain in design. I have enough white oak with nice figure to do the upright sides, base and top. I will probably use red oak for the shelves.

If I get adventuresome I may put doors on one section. If so I will save the boards with the best figure for that.

I feel capable of doing the work as I've put built in shelving in two rooms already. Granted, that was pine from the big box stores and is painted so this will be a bit of a different animal.

For this project I don't think I'll spend the money and time to have it kiln dried. If it all blows up and goes to heck it won't be a tragedy and I'll learn from my mistakes.

 

[jaxs]

I buy furniture grade at 10% or less moisture and store it in a temp controlled environment, on racks.
This is my 391 Beretta Silver side Sporting 20” with my stock wood, it is a fair piece of wood.

I don't have anything to add (or subtract for that matter) for op but I have some very experienced advice regarding that gun. You should immediately rehome it to me in Texas for safe keeping.